I can't say anything more than lo-lyf and Pl4yboy said, since, well......I read basically all the advice they give here and learn from them.
Matching the box to the subs is absolutely critical. There's like, actual math and stuff involved. If you re-use an old box for new subs and it's too small, it'll suck. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe if the box is too big you can at least compensate with filler to reduce the volume.
Ported boxes are a bit more complex as you must also worry about port size and tube length, again determined by maths. However, I think the general consensus is that the added complexity is worth it if done right.
I have a JL Midgate Stealthbox (sealed) with 2 12s in my Avalanche. I'm not sure if they're W3s or W6s, but I think it came with W6s. I'm running a 400W RMS Alpine amp to it and yeah, I'm wanting more. The 500/1 would sound good and get the job done, but if you want to do it once and be satisfied for a LONG time without feeling the need to redo it later, the1000/1 would be the way to go. I'm looking to upgrade to the 700-750W ballpark for my subs and pretty sure I'll go with amps from Diamond Audio. I might have to go higher on the sub amp to balance the sound with my door speakers, and if I do I'll replace the subs and look at DD like Pl4yboy likes.
My system in my truck was my present to myself when I came back from Iraq in '05, so we have a LOT in common heh. I didn't research beforehand like you're doing though, and I should have. Smart move on your part, man. I just went down to the stereo shop, asked "What do you think?" and had them do it. I'm going to be redoing almost everything in the next year or two as cash allows.
Petey, consider me in line behind lo-lyf for the alternator please. He gets first dibs, but if he doesn't end up taking it we can talk![]()


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