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  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Oh YEAH

    I think I dont haft to worry bout hooking again

    Question: I orderd Mickey T tubes for them. But the valve stem was MASSIVE! Wouldnt go in the rim. They had a 2 tubes for these rims already. They arent as heavy duty though. Is that ok?

    06 Intimidator SS- Tuned, CAI -DD
    03 Silverado- Last incarnation 13.6... RIP
    Ls1, Pnp heads, Polluter camshaft, spray, 4k stall on the way
    "Seize the day like you seize your noodle" - Shin Chan

  2. #2
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    Drill the valve stem hole larger.

    Don't forget to put screws in the rim to hold the tire from spinning. If it spins you will rip the valve stem off the tube. I think the MOROSO number is 90100 or something like that. 90300?
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat View Post
    Drill the valve stem hole larger.

    Don't forget to put screws in the rim to hold the tire from spinning. If it spins you will rip the valve stem off the tube. I think the MOROSO number is 90100 or something like that. 90300?
    Since I dont have like a 11sec truck is it ok to run it the way it is till I can get them redone the right way?
    Do you have a pic of how the screws are to be put in the rim? Thats a bit confusing to me greg. I dont see how that would NOT cause a deflation problem....

    06 Intimidator SS- Tuned, CAI -DD
    03 Silverado- Last incarnation 13.6... RIP
    Ls1, Pnp heads, Polluter camshaft, spray, 4k stall on the way
    "Seize the day like you seize your noodle" - Shin Chan

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Show&Go View Post
    Since I dont have like a 11sec truck is it ok to run it the way it is till I can get them redone the right way?
    Do you have a pic of how the screws are to be put in the rim? Thats a bit confusing to me greg. I dont see how that would NOT cause a deflation problem....

    you'll be fine, even tubeless i doubt youre pushing the rwhp to screw the rim to the tire!!
    Simple: 408 on steroids!
    single digits coming soon!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by skeet View Post
    you'll be fine, even tubeless i doubt youre pushing the rwhp to screw the rim to the tire!!
    So basically I need to order the rim screws.

    But till I get them If I can get to the track and run it I SHOULD be fine?? I dont see me having enough power to worry about it yet either. But I will do it. What about switching the tubes???

    06 Intimidator SS- Tuned, CAI -DD
    03 Silverado- Last incarnation 13.6... RIP
    Ls1, Pnp heads, Polluter camshaft, spray, 4k stall on the way
    "Seize the day like you seize your noodle" - Shin Chan

  6. #6
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    i wouldnt worry about running a tube the tire will do fine tubeless, and before you slick screw it take it to the track and shoepolish a line on your tire were the valve stem is make a few passes and see if it moves. my opinion it wont have enough bottom end to turn the tire on the wheel.
    1999 silverado ecsb 5.3L, gibson exhaust, gutted cats, cai intake, vette servo, TB converter, and hp tuned by me. now need ls6 cam and springs.

    1995 1500 rcsb got a 12 bolt rear end, PLAN (6.0L swap with 4L80E. fuel cell, cam, valve springs, rod bolts and spray.)

  7. #7
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    I found this:
    Rim Screw Templates - summitracing.com
    and this:
    Rim Screws - summitracing.com
    How do thes work? Do you drill the wheel without the tire on, then put the tire on followed by the screws? Or, do you install the tire and drill through the wheel and tire, then put the screws in it?
    "ALisSa1 Silverado"
    1990 Chevrolet RCSB 2002 Chevrolet Camaro LS1/4L60E
    Scrimpin Ain't Easy
    ( . Y . )


  8. #8
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    They look like regular screws........ Can I just go to Ideal and buy some screws? Like 3/4 inch.... I think (as in I wish someone would tell me the exact) I should drill through the rim into the tire holding it into place along the lip?

    Do I really need the other tubes in it. I mean its a tube. I put screws in slicks.... Then it CANT rotate inside the rim so I wouldnt need the big tube.

    Greg or someone that has done this please chime in before I screw something up

    06 Intimidator SS- Tuned, CAI -DD
    03 Silverado- Last incarnation 13.6... RIP
    Ls1, Pnp heads, Polluter camshaft, spray, 4k stall on the way
    "Seize the day like you seize your noodle" - Shin Chan

  9. #9
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    you drill through the bead area. The tire bead is thick in that location and the screws don't go all the way through the bead. Be sure you have about 25 psi of air in the tire when you put the screws in. Put a stop on your drill bit so you don't drill all the way through the tire. I used a piece of vacuum tubing on the bit all the way up to the point of it. Drill the rim with the tire already on it. The screw kit will tell you the proper size drill bit to use. Once drilled you just wrench the screws into place. The ones in the kits are hardened and plated steel and won't strip out like most hardware grade screws.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  10. #10
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    Truck is a lot heavier and has more potential to spin the bead. If you're not gonna run the tube you should run, don't bother with the rim screws.....but if you don't run a tube, get REAL screw in valve stems AT LEAST. If you run the proper tubes (natural rubber tubes), use the screws.

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