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Thread: EDIT: Turbo Project Resurrected

  1. #1
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    EDIT: Turbo Project Resurrected

    Figured this would be a good place to start listing and keeping track of what I need/may need to do for the turbo install. If any of you experts think of anything, please post it up. My questions are in red...



    STUFF I NEED OR NEED TO DO:

    1.) Relocate PCM (due to location of air filter on turbo kit per the original owners post). Suggestions? Pictures? Below is a photo of the installed turbo encroaching into the battery and apparently the PCM area as well:



    2.) Previous owner mentioned water in the intercooler. Anyone ever have that problem? Would a petcock valve (or two) be ok in the bottom corner(s) of the intercooler? $10 from Summit (or any hardware store I would assume):



    3.) Looks like the kit/filter also interferes with the looped portion of the upper radiator hose. I'm just going to use some PVC elbows and try to find some straight lengths of radiator hose (do auto parts stores carry the stuff in bulk?). This is a picture of when the previous owner had it installed, you can see how it encroaches on the radiator hose:




    STUFF I ALREADY HAVE OR HAVE ORDERED:

    1.) Got two 25' rolls of 2" exhaust wrap off eBay:



    2.) Got a new set of Taylor 409 Pro Race Wires (10.4mm) and NGK TR6 Plugs:



    3.) Got a Taylor aluminum battery relocation box including disconnect switch (thanks Billy!!!):



    4.) Got a Summit catch-can (thanks Billy!!!):



    5.) LS6 / Z06 Cam

    Last edited by DamnYankee; 05-30-2008 at 12:39 AM.

  2. #2
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    Moze,
    I have a battery dissconnect if you need it.
    I have a Summit catch can new in the box.
    I have a NHRA approved battery relocate box for sale, but its not a cheapy.
    Taylor Cable 48103 - Taylor Battery Relocation Kits - summitracing.com
    If that link doesnt work, the part number is 48103 by Taylor. It lists for $159.
    The drain in the intercooler is a good idea. If you get water or oil in there, its nice to be able to drain it. You might see if you can find something in aluminum so you can have it tig'd in.
    You will need to cap off the big vacume line from the throttle body. The line from the valve cover you can run to the catch can.
    STS sells a little check valve that you can put in the pcv line. The pcv will not stop the boost at times. Not really made for that if you know what I mean.
    Call me if I can help.
    Last edited by DamnYankee; 05-28-2008 at 07:52 PM.
    '92 GMC reg. cab, step side. 7.32@ 92.3. SOLD
    http://videos.streetfire.net/video/d...d700c6401f.htm
    New project: '00 S-10 ext. cab, ZQ8, 370, T-56, daily driver.

  3. #3
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    Moze, you need a set of NGK TR6 plugs. Gap them at .030.
    Part number 4177 from O'Riellys; about $16.00
    '92 GMC reg. cab, step side. 7.32@ 92.3. SOLD
    http://videos.streetfire.net/video/d...d700c6401f.htm
    New project: '00 S-10 ext. cab, ZQ8, 370, T-56, daily driver.

  4. #4
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    If there is no exhaust wrap left on the down pipe, you will need some so you dont cook things.
    '92 GMC reg. cab, step side. 7.32@ 92.3. SOLD
    http://videos.streetfire.net/video/d...d700c6401f.htm
    New project: '00 S-10 ext. cab, ZQ8, 370, T-56, daily driver.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by trtturbo View Post
    Moze,I have a battery dissconnect if you need it. New in the box $10.00
    Yes!

    Quote Originally Posted by trtturbo View Post
    Moze, I have a Summit catch can new in the box. $20.00
    Yes!

    Quote Originally Posted by trtturbo View Post
    Moze,
    I have a NHRA approved battery relocate box for sale, but its not a cheapy.
    Taylor Cable 48103 - Taylor Battery Relocation Kits - summitracing.com
    If that link doesnt work, the part number is 48103 by Taylor. It lists for $159. Its new also. Make a good offer!
    It's a money thing right now...I was going to get the one for $75 so if I can't save any money, I'll probably just get the one I listed above. Don't short yourself - let me know how much you want.

    Quote Originally Posted by trtturbo View Post
    The drain in the intercooler is a good idea. If you get water or oil in there, its nice to be able to drain it. You might see if you can find something in aluminum so you can have it tig'd in.
    You will need to cap off the big vacume line from the throttle body. The line from the valve cover you can run to the catch can.
    STS sells a little check valve that you can put in the pcv line. The pcv will not stop the boost at times. Not really made for that if you know what I mean.
    Call me if I can help.
    Thanks man - there's a good chance I'll be calling you a dozen more times in the next couple weeks.

  6. #6
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    It just hit me you probably will need to list that stuff in the sale section and I'll just claim it. Or whatever. Trying to follow the rules the mean moderators make us follow.

  7. #7
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    yeah, mean man moderators.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  8. #8
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    Yeah those NGKs are a good idea. I should have done that from the get go. It did run a tad bit rougher just at idle, but it got rid of alot of KR I was seeing. Not to thread hijack, but when is a catch can a good idea? Like how much boost? How much boost do you plan on running moze
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  9. #9
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    Don't have a clue on how much boost to run. Still learning buddy.

    A catch can is good anytime. Helps catch all the crap that gets sent back to your intake manifold and doesn't get burnt like it's supposed to. Or filters.

  10. #10
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    Mozey, we should be able to "Southern Engineer" most things when it comes to building the kit. Things are going to get pretty cramped under there, so we need to wrap everything before we get it installed. I know it will take longer, but we could do a mock-up install of everything to make sure we get the necessary clearance before we start tightening everything down. And what is going to happen with the injectors and fuel rails? I say keep the fuel rail and get injector spacers with the FAST 60 lb. injectors. That way we don;t have to waste time messing with splicing into the injector wiring harness...

    As for the intercooler, I am guessing it is an air-to-air unit? The water mentioned is probably just condensation in the lines. Yes, a petcock valve will let the water to drain out. The lowest location along the intercooler hose is preferred.
    Last edited by txarkitekt; 05-29-2008 at 01:11 PM.

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