i'd really prefer to keep it as stock looking as possible
i'd really prefer to keep it as stock looking as possible
is the 383 a gen3 or gen4 engine? if not, you don't need a flexplate spacer and you need to get a flexplate that is for the 80e trans installed in a non-gen3 engine because the converter bolt pattern is different by a few millimeters and had 6 bolts rather than 3.
Never heard of the trans controller. I know GM had a standalone controller for the 80e in the diesel trucks but never saw anyone use one in a conversion.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
No, its not a gen 3 or 4 engine. The block itself is older than his 95 truck. I'll have to ask him (my son) what make/model flex plate he bought. I know it's a stock plate that's weighted for a 5.7 and has the 6 bolt 80e pattern. I think we're good on the plate. I just wanted to be sure about the spacers.
Nothing on the Baumann Optishift huh? I would have though somebody on here would have one in an older model truck or something. I'll try a few other sites and see if anything pops up.
Thanks again.
Robert
Apparently if you are going to use a 99 4l80e, you have to use rear cooler line fitting which has a longer snout. If you don't the trans is said to fail. I think this is what the problem was with my trans that only lasted about 500ish miles, half of which performance seriously decreased. I am going to install the 80e rear fitting and see if that remedies the problem. If not, I will obviously have to replace/rebuild the trans. I'm not sure if 99 and newer units are correct as i heard of someone with a 98 who had a longer snout in the rear. Here is a link to a thread where this issue is discussed. Vince, seemed to stress the importance on this fitting to.
http://www.performancetrucks.net/for...s-help-485402/
2007 GMT900 CCSB 5.3 VTS2300 Twin Screw Supercharger, Doug Thorley LT's, True 3" Duals into Dynomax Race Bullets, Nelson Tune, 4L80e w/transgo HD2-D, Truetrac, 4.10 r&p
Need list: Stall, PLX 200 for my crappy AFR, X-pipe, GM 20's.
is it possible to get a brain and wiring harness from a 3/4 or 1 ton with a 350/4l80e and swap it in? i think i found a 454/4l80e brain and harness from a 97 1 ton. will that work on for my 350?
contact nelsonperformance and see if they can program your pcm first.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
Well after two years of mild abuse, the transmission is DEAD!
It lasted with about 1.5 years of 425hp to the wheels with the rearmount, and the rest of it's life with 520hp to the wheels with a front mount.
The trans started making noise last week, a high whining noise under light acceleration, well any acceleration and idle.
This week we tore it apart and found out what has failed.
The clutches are slightly burned up. They are black and lots of residue in the pan. Some of the steals between the clutches were warped too.
I can't say the gears were slipping, but there is definitely a lot of wear.
The big problem was the sprag. It's worn out and grinding itself away.
I thought this would be the last part that would go.
Anyway, I bought a salvage yard trans and I'll be installing it Sunday, then later this week I'll add a shiftkit. I've seen stock 80e's with shiftkits last a long time, so in the meantime I'll rebuild this broken one and move on.
Nelson Performance
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Mine has been making some noise, too. Sounds like something is rattling around inside it maybe in the convertor. Still runs and drives fine but its nowhere near as quiet as the original 60e. Like I've always said, these 80e transmissions are not 100% indestructible, they have parts that are designed to wear out and then there are a few small parts that break and a couple pieces like the roller assy in the center support that has a poor support design. They sure do handle the abuse a whole lot better than any of the 60e's I've had. Even the 60e that came out of the GMT900 is toast, fluid is dark.
Good luck with the 80e buildup, they're a very simple design and you should have no problem doing it yourself.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
So what now....our we helpless, all those (like a zillion) posts that the 80e in stock form and a shift kit will hold 600 tq are what? BS?Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat
Mine has been making some noise, too. Sounds like something is rattling around inside it maybe in the convertor. Still runs and drives fine but its nowhere near as quiet as the original 60e. Like I've always said, these 80e transmissions are not 100% indestructible, they have parts that are designed to wear out and then there are a few small parts that break and a couple pieces like the roller assy in the center support that has a poor support design. They sure do handle the abuse a whole lot better than any of the 60e's I've had. Even the 60e that came out of the GMT900 is toast, fluid is dark.
Good luck with the 80e buildup, they're a very simple design and you should have no problem doing it yourself.
What is the next step? Inner parts dead on so little torque !!!! Personally I asked a fully billet internally (all OEM parts replaced by custom made billet parts) and the top of the top that advertisement can give me.....but have no faith.
I haven't done the install yet, waiting on the SFI flywheel, But I wanna be ahead of the game.....what should I have to buy now, a Lenco for sad 700tq engine !!!!!!
Can the wounded tell me witch way to go when I get hit by the bullet !?
Funny thing is that A.N. advice me to buy this vendors bulletProof Trans, and make it live like 3000 miles and 10 passes!!!
And now Karma strikes back on him.....how it taste A.N.?
Was this the built transmission that's listed in the 4l60e to 4l80e swap tutorial?
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