You can usually pick up a good used G80 for about $100 and then just pay to have it installed with a new set of bearings and races.
You can usually pick up a good used G80 for about $100 and then just pay to have it installed with a new set of bearings and races.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
4wd, gotta do the front and the rear at the same time if you have electronic push button. With the electronic, the front drive shaft spins all the time. Not sure if you would get bound up or not, but i wouldn't want to find out the hard way. If you don't use the 4wd that much, i would go with a Yukon or Standard Gear up in the front because the front set only runs around $120.
2013 CC 5.3
81 C10 LS1 project
I do have push button and use it somewhat but not a real lot. I might as well go with some better gears now that i have to replace them. Think i am going to go with some 4.10s and maybe a G80
2000 Silverado Ecsb 5.3 Z71. Work in progress...
i have push button 4wd and theyre fine ,my driveshaft doesnt spin all the time,i checked it and its in neutral all the time unless i push the auto 4 or 4 hi 4lo.in park or in gear it spins freely by hand.i didnt install fronts ,later ill do them .for now it got me on the rd.
mods:2004 sierra ext sb,20s ,big brake kit w,hawk pads,air bagged,2006 6.0 lq4 swap,vortec supercharged10psi, air to water intercooled w/ dual electric fans on it ,snow meth injection kit,60lbers, e-fans ,big radiator swap ,cam 218 /222 548/550 comp .hardened prs .1.85 comp roller rockers ,guideplates ,crane double springs,trans 4l65e built .pacesetter l/ts true duals w/x pipe and magnaflows,14 bolt rearend swap ,3.73s,aroemotive fuel pump system w/elec.fuel controller and bypass regulator a/n fittings, taylor 10.5s interceptor gauge,aem w/b a/f ,autometer boost/vac NELSON 93 OCTANE TUNED .
see if you can find an used unit on here or pt net.its worth it especially if youre going to put some more power to it.
mods:2004 sierra ext sb,20s ,big brake kit w,hawk pads,air bagged,2006 6.0 lq4 swap,vortec supercharged10psi, air to water intercooled w/ dual electric fans on it ,snow meth injection kit,60lbers, e-fans ,big radiator swap ,cam 218 /222 548/550 comp .hardened prs .1.85 comp roller rockers ,guideplates ,crane double springs,trans 4l65e built .pacesetter l/ts true duals w/x pipe and magnaflows,14 bolt rearend swap ,3.73s,aroemotive fuel pump system w/elec.fuel controller and bypass regulator a/n fittings, taylor 10.5s interceptor gauge,aem w/b a/f ,autometer boost/vac NELSON 93 OCTANE TUNED .
i had a similar thing happen to me. i had a new trans with a shift kit and vette servos in it less than a year old and one day i was driving the freeway crusing at 65-70 and all of the sudden lost all power...id hit the pedal and it would just rev like it was in neutral. thank god i was getting off the freeway on the exit i wanted. i went to drive it home thinking it would be all good after sitting for an hour. nope. same thing when it was supposed to be shifting in 3rd it did it again. so i put it into 2nd and drove it 35 miles home in 2nd....that was a bitch!! i could only go about 45-50 so it was all on side streets. but anyway i got it down to my cousins shop where they did the install and he opens it up and my 3rd gear FRIED. thank god they did the work or i would have had to pay like $800 to fix it.
it dosent sound like its the same problem but just thought i would share.
hope you get it back up and runnin again soon.
T-RAV99 GMC | 5.3 | Skinny White Guy Tuned
Just because the front shaft turns or there is an electronic shift means nothing about if the gears have to be swapped at once. The front drive shaft might spin at no load but if the encoder is working, there is no power transfer to the front in 2WD. A fully functional electric shift is no different than a manual shift other than convenience.
4.10's FTW
02' silverado ext. cb 2wd , 5.3 liter 325c.i. LM7, ported and polished throttlebody with bypass, Jannetty Racing 87 octane dyno tune, cold air intake with custom ram air, Heavy duty built 4l60e with vette servo, Z-pac clutches, "The Beast" Sunshell, transgo shift kit, yukon 4.10 gears with true trac, custom exhaust with Moroso Spiralflow, no cats, MSD 8.5 race wires, NGK TR55's
Originally Posted by farmtruc
Ok--how much $$$ do you have available to spend?
Buy some AAM gears. They will be just fine for what you are doing.
Did you guys not hear what Tanz said? He has to do the front and rear gears at the same time cause he is 4WD. 3.42s up front and 4.10s n the back won't work guys.
Where/who do you play soccer for? I played for 21 years, and for 2 in DIV 1 in college...
2000 ECSB 6.0L
TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's
Different gears work, just don't lock it into 4wd without being in mud. One end or the other has to slip if engaged but if not engaged you could have any combination of gearing. I ran that way for years in my old truck.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
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