New Trans Cooler

[Sleaper]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Jun 5 2007, 07&#58;01 PM) [snapback]95758[/snapback]</div>

It depends, did the add-on cooler come with a bypass? My tru-cool came with one that will bypass the cooler until the fluids get hot. I tossed it in the drawer. I want my fluids as cold as possible.
[/b]

I don&#39;t think so. I didn&#39;t install it myself so I don&#39;t know for sure, but according to what the guy at the shop said, it is not running on a bypass.

[leochevy2001]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(ramair2002 &#064; Jun 5 2007, 05&#58;47 PM) [snapback]95750[/snapback]</div>

The lines, however, are connected in series with the stock trans cooler (tow package) which I am assuming is after the radiator. Does that sound right Red? Sorry, totally clueluess when it comes to this stuff&#33;&#33;
[/b]

that&#39;s what i was asking. sorry for the misunderstanding.
i was thinking maybe the lines were connected wrong.

[RedHeartbeat]

It appears your fluids were being cooled to their maximum potential by the previous cooler. What happens is the fluid from the transmission travels through the radiator where it is stabilized to the same temp as the water in the engine. The only way to cool the transmission fluid below that of the engine radiator would be to totally bypass the radiator cooler.

[2boosted]

It appears your fluids were being cooled to their maximum potential by the previous cooler. What happens is the fluid from the transmission travels through the radiator where it is stabilized to the same temp as the water in the engine. The only way to cool the transmission fluid below that of the engine radiator would be to totally bypass the radiator cooler.[/b]

MY POINT exactly, been in a hot weather all the time, want it to be cooler than the Engine, wich is all the time at OP temps, the trans can be as low as 150 and still flows and operates great.

Got 2 big (took off the OEM aux cooler) Trans coollers by-pased form the OEM radiator and kicking it out the hell of it I see mayor temps of 200, and in city with trafic I see OP normal temp at 175-180, so is not so bad a Air to air system at all.

[misterp]

Apologies being late to the discussion -

Optimum trans temp - it all depends on the fluid you are using. If you are using regular Dexron III then yes you want temps 165-175 so that the fluid has gotten hot enough to thin out else it will take more energy to pump and you will waste power & mileage, not to mention it will make shifting sluggish and that can result in clutch slippage (clutches don&#39;t get released as quickly as they should). If you are using a synthetic ATF then you can lower the operating temp as it will be thinner out of the bottle and not need as much heat to "flow" correctly. Also keep in mind that if you run your tranny too cold you can form varnish on clutches, plus any water suspended in the fluid will not be boiled-off. My tranny has always grabbed hardest and shifted fastest at 150-160 degrees and it&#39;s very picky about that temp range, anything outside that range is a marked difference in shift behavior.

IMO if you are running over 175-degrees you are killing your tranny. According to GM literature, each 20-degrees after 175-degrees cuts transmission life IN HALF. When my own trans got to regularly operating at 180 we tore it down to find all the clutches completely disintegrated/smoked.

Specific advise -

You&#39;re not going to cool anything with FIVE coolers stacked atop each other like legos - radiator, A/C, OE POS tranny cooler, aftermarket tranny cooler, intercooler.
* Relocate the intercooler down behind the bumper, it&#39;s "preheating" everything else; for &#036;30 in aluminum stock you can fab your own brackets in 2-3 hours, you&#39;ll need to also redo the charge tube plumbing as well... you are probably going to have to lay that I/C back at a 15-20 degree angle as well, like a Vette radiator; of course the bigger problem here is that there is not much "breathing" through the front bumper, so to get best efficiency you might have to put in extra work in the way of a air dam under the I/C to make the truck a "bottom breather" and create a high pressure zone in front of the I/C as well as a low-pressure zone behind it to force the air to better flow through the core at low speeds...
* Get rid of the OE external tranny cooler and mount the new tranny cooler where the OE one was, -OR- rearrange them so they are "side-by-side" and plumbed in series so the fluid goes through the little one first then the aftermarket one - don&#39;t leave them &#39;stacked&#39; atop each other; the more I think about it the more I like the second idea (use both coolers side-by-side)
* plumb the new aftermarket cooler in series with the radiator ATF cooler - the ATF needs to go through the fluid-to-fluid cooler first, then the external coolers, this is also important in the winter to guarantee that the fuild actually warms up
* optional - if you&#39;ve got the smaller 28" radiator core in your truck then step up to the larger radiator from a HD truck
* optional - get small efan(s) to cool your intercooler between track runs in the staging lanes but IMO that&#39;s totally extra
* plumbing the transmission cooler - get 3/8" steel fuel lines from the auto parts store, they already come pre-flared on the ends, just bend to shape or cut-up as you need and use 3/8" compression fittings for permanent leak-free lines

Another thing that I&#39;ve noticed is that the Yank TT3000 runs a bit hotter than other comparable converters; I just helped someone else with this converter and his trans temps were almost 190.

Doing this will not only reduce your trans temps but also reduce your radiator temps and make colder A/C as well since these cores aren&#39;t being "preheated" by the I/C or being restricted in airflow. Sorry I&#39;m not closer, else I&#39;d give you a hand...

Mr. P.

[Sleaper]

Thanks Mr. P&#33; I&#39;ll let you know how it turns out&#33;&#33;

[misterp]

Follow-up:

I spoke with my friend tonight about the results of the I/C relo I assisted him with, and he has additionally installed the B&M cooler in place of the wimpy factory external ATF cooler; with relocating the I/C plus the new B&M cooler the tranny temp fell 30-degrees - with generous abuse the ATF temps hold at 160-165 using a Yank TT3000 converter and Dexron III ATF.

Mr. P.

[Sleaper]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Mister P &#064; Jun 8 2007, 01&#58;22 AM) [snapback]96046[/snapback]</div>

Follow-up:

I spoke with my friend tonight about the results of the I/C relo I assisted him with, and he has additionally installed the B&M cooler in place of the wimpy factory external ATF cooler; with relocating the I/C plus the new B&M cooler the tranny temp fell 30-degrees - with generous abuse the ATF temps hold at 160-165 using a Yank TT3000 converter and Dexron III ATF.

Mr. P.
[/b]

Not to discredit my trans guy but where is the part number on the trans cooler? That could be the only thing I could think of as to why it&#39;s not cooling at all is that the part is not what it is supposed to be. I understand about stacking all of the coolers on top of each other is not a good idea, but with that said I have anywhere from +1-7 degrees above ambient IAT&#39;s, my water temps are the same at 195 and my A/C blows ice cold. So I know everything is getting good airflow but my concern now is that the cooler itself may not be the correct one. I will do a little more research this weekend and let you know what I find out.

Thanks for the follow up Mr. P&#33;

[withac]

It appears your fluids were being cooled to their maximum potential by the previous cooler. What happens is the fluid from the transmission travels through the radiator where it is stabilized to the same temp as the water in the engine. The only way to cool the transmission fluid below that of the engine radiator would be to totally bypass the radiator cooler.

If the cooler was plumbed in after the engine radiator wouldn't that allow it to cool more? I'm a noob at this but my logic is that the radiator would cool it to the temp of the water in the engine and if the aux cooler were physically in front of the radiator, and plumbed after the radiator the aux cooler would then have the potential to drop the temp even further. Is that a wrong assumption?

[GMCwantsLS1]

If the cooler was plumbed in after the engine radiator wouldn't that allow it to cool more? I'm a noob at this but my logic is that the radiator would cool it to the temp of the water in the engine and if the aux cooler were physically in front of the radiator, and plumbed after the radiator the aux cooler would then have the potential to drop the temp even further. Is that a wrong assumption?

That is correct. That is the way I run my cooler.