Quick, Whats your 1/4 ET? Seen some videos and a lot of dyno numbers but haven't seen times. Maybe just missed them.
Come on guys, each to there own. Anyone that mods a truck for performance has a screw loose. I know I do. I thought that was understood here and that was the main reason for the tight nit group.
Last thing we need is 1/2 tons bashing 3/4 tons, gas bashing diesel, weight reduction trucks knocking heavy trucks, etc. My truck is not my daily driver. Enjoyment for me = new fastest time. new power gets me there, weight reduction gets me there. Dont undestand the need for 15-14 second guys chiming in that weight reduction is stupid, pointless, etc.
Last edited by Sizzle Chest; 11-07-2009 at 12:08 AM.
________________________
2006 2500HD, RCLB, 4X4
6.0, 4L80e, 14 bolt
i got to cut off the spare crossmember,i just relocated the light harness box,,was easy.
mom looked at me like wtf are you cutting your new truck for? lol
rollpan
tailgate
spare tire
spare tire winch
jack/spare tire tools
skid plates
hitch
dump tail pipe after muffler stock muffler is heavy
tow hooks
console
passenger seat
empty glove box
empty center console
take out sound deadening material under carpet
take out radio and speakers
delete a/c
take out washer resvoir
lightweight battery. mine in my car weighs 12.4 pounds
take out any and all unecsary brakcets, bolts and plastic covers. in the engine bay and cab.
no more than 1/4 tank of gas
01CamaroZ28
10.751 @ 124.26 mph with a 1.446 60ft
ALL THRILLS NO FRILLS!!!!
B&L Racing stg 1 heads 224/581 cam.
06 silverado 6.0L VMAX LPP LT's, Volant CAI, Manaflow, NELSON TUNE.
so stunna.... how much did that bar weight?
STILL haven't got an answer to that one lol.
blown transmissions are about as useful as 97% of the guys on this forum
ok my truck weighs 3800lbs with me in it front weighs 1800 2000 rear the insulation under the carpet is good for like 50lbs i replaced with foil backed bubble wrap insulation 5lbs there like said before tubular upper and lower control arms drilled and slotted roters upgrade to the vette calipers e-brake delete go to a aluminum box like 2x6x14 for windshield washer cromoly transmission cross member gun drilled axles lightweight spool and gear set......etc there are many things you can remove just look if it dosent need it to go then get rid of it but on the other hand i think we need to make a sticky on what every removable part weighs some time
Mods:
Maybe STOCK
"My lugnuts require more torque than your ricer is ever going to produce"
Sleep: That Stuff Is Overrated
"You don't care what it is, or who makes it, as long as they race it. You my friend are a true Gear Head!" (Drew Anderson)
Who's the real culprit of Obeisity: video games because their scared of physical activities, or Pillsbury for being so delicious?
I have done all the weight reduction that this post describes. Pending is the rear cross member and the tow hooks.
Also I want the Duraflex fenders, dont know if fot the NNBS is available, mine is a 2002.00-06 Chevrolet Tahoe Duraflex Platinum Fenders by: Duraflex -
Every weight reduction count in my mind, If not for gaining any at ET, at least with my Xeprience, less weigth also means less stress on parts, and less breakage.
And total support to the Crazy people here, why in the world any one will try to make a FULL SIZE race in their comon sense.
OK my contributions -
1) replace the stock manifolds with lightweight headers.
2) replace the steel bed for the composite bed = 65-lb weight reduction, plus easier to fix in the event of a fender bender;
3) carbon fiber hood = 35-lb weight reduction
4) aluminum block = 65-lb weight reduction
5) rims & tires, easily shed 150-lbs of ROLLING, unsprung weight
6) I calculated swiss-cheesing & flaging the frame rail, I estimate 30-35 lb weight savings and if done right will still have factory strength but would be a biatch to do
7) Another "bed" idea - swap your bed for the "short-short" bed from a crew-cab truck; remove a foot of frame rail to shorten your existing wheelbase.
A lot of the other ideas have already been mentioned.
Converting from 4x4/AWD to 2WD, yes you can save 250-lbs but you would still be hampered with the torsion-bar suspension (heavy) so it is better to just get a 2WD truck with coil spring front-end.
Mr. P.
If you do have torsion springs you can modify the front end to use coil overs instead. Thats 150 lbs of dead weight removed once you remove bars, adjusters and xmember. 2wd a-arm would be lighter than the torsion bar a-arms, too.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709