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Thread: Conversion Progress Report

  1. #61
    Using a voltmeter across the terminals on the battery it was 14 volts while running, however I have seen my gauge read much higher than that. And I'm not sure on the TBI setups, but for the vortec you have to connect the output from the computer, C2-10, to a white wire on the connector to the coil. Nothing about needing to change anything in the computer.

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Ellsworth Air Force Base, SD
    Posts
    143
    I was not saying change anything about the computer, I was refering to the signal generated by the computer may need to be made stronger. I believe I have found the fix.



    I will put my volt meter across the battery when it is running tomorrow morning and see what I get for voltage. I hate working night shift, by the time I get off, anything I want to do with the truck now that it is running is too loud for my wife and daughter. Should get to drive it for the first time tomorrow!
    1994 Chevy C1500 RCSB 05' DBW 5.3 Conversion Complete
    My build

    Coming soon ....... Full Repaint, 214/220 Cam, Yukon Posi with 3.73's, remove body lift

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Ellsworth Air Force Base, SD
    Posts
    143
    Alright, the gauge is reading really high but my meter says it putting out 13.85, so I guess I am good. Got the loom finished and under the hood cleaned up. DIY cold air intake came out great and functional.



    I had the front end off to do some wiring correctly and thought that I should paint it while it was off. I sanded all the chrome off and used bedliner for the grille and bumper. I sprayed the bow tie in metallic cobalt blue. I should have done this a long time ago. I also used one of those headlight lens restoration kits made by 3M, and it works fantastic!

    1994 Chevy C1500 RCSB 05' DBW 5.3 Conversion Complete
    My build

    Coming soon ....... Full Repaint, 214/220 Cam, Yukon Posi with 3.73's, remove body lift

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Ellsworth Air Force Base, SD
    Posts
    143
    We'll I got about 4 miles on her and no codes, everything seems to be running good. I got a scare from it when I looked down at my temperature gauge and saw it said 280! I checked the coolant with a digital thermometer and watched the fans. They kicked on low when my thermometer read about 160. I am assuming that the brand factory temp sender/sensor I installed must be bad. I checked the grounds and they were fine for the sensor. It seems to read fine at first, then when it gets to the 120 mark, it seems to spike to maximum reading in the cab.
    1994 Chevy C1500 RCSB 05' DBW 5.3 Conversion Complete
    My build

    Coming soon ....... Full Repaint, 214/220 Cam, Yukon Posi with 3.73's, remove body lift

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Jacksonville, AR
    Posts
    63
    Are you using the older truck one or did you do the 3 wire LS one? You add that resistor yet, I'm curious to seehow that turns out.
    Last edited by Jmac527; 03-12-2014 at 08:01 PM.

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Ellsworth Air Force Base, SD
    Posts
    143
    I am using the factory 05' 2 wire sender for the PCM and the factory 94' 2 wire for the instrument cluster. I am going to pick up the resistor at radioshack in the morning and will post the results.
    1994 Chevy C1500 RCSB 05' DBW 5.3 Conversion Complete
    My build

    Coming soon ....... Full Repaint, 214/220 Cam, Yukon Posi with 3.73's, remove body lift

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Long Beach California
    Posts
    637
    yes the resistor is the fix. worked perfect for me. i tried driving without it hooked up and the tach did nothing. pulled over, tied the resistor in and bam, tach started working like it should. and its accurate too.
    Like Tumbler in "Gone in 60" I'll drive anything with wheels or without

    My 95 ECSB LQ9 build thread - http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...to-95-obs.html
    CALI LEGAL ENGINE SWAP!
    Stock 03 LQ9, DBW, 95' 4l80e w/ Transgo shift kit, 2010 50# GM injectors, 2800 Circle D stall, Spectre CAI, Upgraded trans cooler, Home-made E-fans/shroud, Dual EP-381 fuel pumps w/Home-made hotwire kit
    NEXT ON LIST: Dual Battery setup, CAM/Valvetrain upgrade, Build my own rear mount turbo, TRU-TRAC, HIT THE STRIP!!!

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Ellsworth Air Force Base, SD
    Posts
    143
    That resistor did the trick. My tach works great now, now all I have to do is fix the temp sender so my guage will read correctly.
    1994 Chevy C1500 RCSB 05' DBW 5.3 Conversion Complete
    My build

    Coming soon ....... Full Repaint, 214/220 Cam, Yukon Posi with 3.73's, remove body lift

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    San Antonio, TX Area
    Posts
    1,741
    Good job. I still have not gotten my tach to work. And I set it up the way LT1swap recommend it.
    "ALisSa1 Silverado"
    1990 Chevrolet RCSB 2002 Chevrolet Camaro LS1/4L60E
    Scrimpin Ain't Easy
    ( . Y . )


  10. #70
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Ellsworth Air Force Base, SD
    Posts
    143
    Quote Originally Posted by Chevy-Art View Post
    Good job. I still have not gotten my tach to work. And I set it up the way LT1swap recommend it.
    Thanks Art, haven't heard from you in a long time, I was wondering if you were still even on here. I got everything working except the temp gauge, it reads about 300 degrees. I was going to pick up a new factory sensor tomorrow, but I got con'd into working weekend duty for aircraft to fly sorties on Monday, this is the downfall of living in Base housing, nearest to work gets to work. I will just get the wife to pick one up for me and drop it off at work.
    1994 Chevy C1500 RCSB 05' DBW 5.3 Conversion Complete
    My build

    Coming soon ....... Full Repaint, 214/220 Cam, Yukon Posi with 3.73's, remove body lift

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