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Thread: New Life for a truck passed its prime

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  1. #1
    Thats cool that your driveshaft length is right, I noticed you went with the trans dapt motor mounts. P# 4572 says (factory location). I thought most move the motor back 1". Is every truck different? I would like to get away with having to cut or extend either driveshaft. Also where did you find that kit for $45?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    not enough spline length engagement. You physically could remove your driveshaft without unbolting it from the rear of the truck if the rear end was unloaded of weight by hitting a large swell in the road that caused a 0g effect on the truck.

    It will work like that but it can be dangerous. Be sure to weld in the hole in the hole of the bolt on yoke so fluid doesn't flow out of it.
    Last edited by RedHeartbeat; 03-23-2010 at 11:45 PM.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    496
    Quote Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat View Post
    not enough spline length engagement. You physically could remove your driveshaft without unbolting it from the rear of the truck if the rear end was unloaded of weight by hitting a large swell in the road that caused a 0g effect on the truck.

    It will work like that but it can be dangerous. Be sure to weld in the hole in the hole of the bolt on yoke so fluid doesn't flow out of it.
    After some quick research during my break at work, I found that these are my options for makin this trans work in my truck:
    1. Have the output shaft changed to one designed for slip yoke (costly)
    2. Have a drivetrain shop make a driveshaft with a slip built in (also costly)
    3. This - http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p69_...pline_wth.html

    I will probably go with option 3 or see if a local shop can make me
    one. Either way it is more time and $ I wasnt planning to spend. Im outta money...
    Last edited by flattopwill; 03-24-2010 at 06:48 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    496
    Quote Originally Posted by coastsidekid View Post
    Thats cool that your driveshaft length is right, I noticed you went with the trans dapt motor mounts. P# 4572 says (factory location). I thought most move the motor back 1". Is every truck different? I would like to get away with having to cut or extend either driveshaft. Also where did you find that kit for $45?
    I used the 4572 mounts because that's what Schoenfeld said I had to use when I picked them up (they are local to me). They said if I didn't use those adapter plates then they couldn't garauntee fitment. Basically if I didn't use those plates and I had a problem I was on my own. I don't even understand why Schoenfeld makes this header. They don't make headers for any other production vehicle, only race cars. But that is for a different thread.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    496
    Well Im makin a little progress. Changed the cam, and springs. Got the new wiring harness installed. Got the crossmember ready to mount. Drive shaft is ready just needs ujoints installed. Pedal got trimmed and is ready to mount. Basically I have a couple more little things and then Im ready to stab it and plug it in. Still waitin on my converter of course. Itll be here Tuesday.

    Problem:
    I had to change the PS pulley that came on my motor because it was warped/bent. The new one refuses to go on. We broke O'reilly's puller kit tryin to get it back on then broke off two bolts in it tryin to get it on. I let it soak in PB so maybe itll be more cooperative next time.

    Thunder Racing's cam tool is like $80. I got these for .79 each and worked perfect. I should have cut them shorter but I figured why bother.


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