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Thread: Pre-amped sub enclosures

  1. #11
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    I personally think it's better to wire at the headunit. If you ever decide to ditch the factory junk the rcas are there already. The dash also has plenty of room to hide the conerter. But that's just me.
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  2. #12
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    heck i didn't even know that hooking to the rear speakers was possible. haha
    04 Silverado Z-71 Extended Cab

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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by lo-lyf View Post
    I personally think it's better to wire at the headunit. If you ever decide to ditch the factory junk the rcas are there already. The dash also has plenty of room to hide the conerter. But that's just me.
    I agree. Ive seen alot of installs that theyve put the converter in the back of the car.
    2000 Silverado ECSB- 5.3 CAI, Pacesetter LTs, ORY- Pipe, Magnaflow XL, E-fan, Ported T/B , Nelson Tuned, Built 4l60e, Circle D Stall, 3.42s G80, 2-4 Drop, Hertz Highs, Rockford 501s

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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by WARLOCK View Post
    I agree. Ive seen alot of installs that theyve put the converter in the back of the car.
    Sometimes that is the only option: i.e. BMW, Mercedes, or just about any vehicle with a factory sub(also gives a <80hz signal). In a plain vehicle I would personally extend the wires on the LOC and install it at the radio. The signal is strongest at the radio, it is easy to hook the RCA's up if you get an aftermarket headunit, and it is a cleaner way to do it. If the vehicle has a sub from the factory though I would wire it in to the sub output wires.
    2005 black Yukon XL SLT - traded in for me wife's new Fusion (GM sucks these days)
    2002 black Yukon SLT (the skinny sister)
    1969 green Pontiac GTO (Layla, AKA the black sheep)

    INSTALLS AND MORE.. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...-low-life.html
    Sticky/broken gauges? I can help. PM me for details.

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