you may know how to drill and tape, but you forgot how to spell tap..........Originally Posted by 408.Luke
just f'n with ya, bud
you may know how to drill and tape, but you forgot how to spell tap..........
74 Austin Morris Mini 1000 - Daily Coil Spring conversion, lowered, Disc Brake conversion
FOR SALE: 04 RC/LB Duramax -12 second tow pig, built Allison, Tune, and supporting mods
FOR SALE: 03 Silverado SS -DBRods built 40X, DP, Suspension. Going for fast
I has a fews funny thingies to say but since my FIL's manufacturing and machine shop died in Oct along with my secondary income I stays mouth shutted on this un.
pm me then im up for some constructive criticism
74 Austin Morris Mini 1000 - Daily Coil Spring conversion, lowered, Disc Brake conversion
FOR SALE: 04 RC/LB Duramax -12 second tow pig, built Allison, Tune, and supporting mods
FOR SALE: 03 Silverado SS -DBRods built 40X, DP, Suspension. Going for fast
Sorry Luke. My comment above was more directed to the other guy trying to explain things that may not have been needed to be explained.
Not a problem nathan
74 Austin Morris Mini 1000 - Daily Coil Spring conversion, lowered, Disc Brake conversion
FOR SALE: 04 RC/LB Duramax -12 second tow pig, built Allison, Tune, and supporting mods
FOR SALE: 03 Silverado SS -DBRods built 40X, DP, Suspension. Going for fast
I must be in deep doo doo.
I was just trying to help.
If we are talking about a 3/8 NPT tap this is what I understand.
The correct drill size is .5676" close to 9/16" .5625" but that is for "steel, wrought iron, or brass " . I looked but could not find what is called out for aluminum.
[Machinery's Handbook 26 ]. That is why I use a smaller drill bit because aluminum is so soft.
If it is a NPS or NPSF [straight threads ]then you would use a 37/64" drill.
A NPT thread seals on the threads, not on the shoulder of the fitting. It looks like the fitting is too deep and setting on it's shoulder. If --it tightened up right at that point you would have the strongest fit.
3/8" NPT should have .240" of threads engagement by hand tightening with another .1667" or about 3 turns with a wrench. I understand that with a thin cover it would be easy to go too deep and resting on the shoulder before the threads got tight.
It just looks like the tap was run in too deep on the second hole. On the first hole --- I hate that drill wobble.
Tell me where I am wrong I am not too old too learn.
2002 GMC 1/2 ton Sierra,4WD, Xct cab, camed, mid-length headers, Nelson tune, electric rad. fan, trany cooler, Heavy 5750 lbs with topper.
none of that is wrong just sayin i know what im doin
74 Austin Morris Mini 1000 - Daily Coil Spring conversion, lowered, Disc Brake conversion
FOR SALE: 04 RC/LB Duramax -12 second tow pig, built Allison, Tune, and supporting mods
FOR SALE: 03 Silverado SS -DBRods built 40X, DP, Suspension. Going for fast
and now it gets interesting....
ignore em,hes slightly ocdI must be in deep doo doo.
I was just trying to help.
If we are talking about a 3/8 NPT tap this is what I understand.
The correct drill size is .5676" close to 9/16" .5625" but that is for "steel, wrought iron, or brass " . I looked but could not find what is called out for aluminum.
[Machinery's Handbook 26 ]. That is why I use a smaller drill bit because aluminum is so soft.
If it is a NPS or NPSF [straight threads ]then you would use a 37/64" drill.
A NPT thread seals on the threads, not on the shoulder of the fitting. It looks like the fitting is too deep and setting on it's shoulder. If --it tightened up right at that point you would have the strongest fit.
3/8" NPT should have .240" of threads engagement by hand tightening with another .1667" or about 3 turns with a wrench. I understand that with a thin cover it would be easy to go too deep and resting on the shoulder before the threads got tight.
It just looks like the tap was run in too deep on the second hole. On the first hole --- I hate that drill wobble.
Tell me where I am wrong I am not too old too learn.
jfwy GG
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