My truck is almost ready for its first trip out of the driveway but I still need to work out alot of small problems and one really big one. First off I realized today that the truck still rolls forward in park! Not a surprise I wanted to get. The other two problems that have me stumped are the fuel gauge staying way past full after I put in the new pump and I have no tachometer well I do it just doesn't move, is that something that should have been changed in the tune?
Last edited by low91; 01-05-2009 at 01:24 AM.
1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.
Does the trans have all the other gears? Might be an adjustment but sounds like something is loose or broken.
Fuel gauge reading full means the signal wire is open, the float is open, or possibly something about the swap I don't know.
All I know for sure is that it has first and reverse. The new pedal and tac module will be in today so I haven't had a way of giving it any fuel yet.
1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.
Your fuel level gauge sending wire might be grounded, and it shouldn't be.
Grounded would show E.
Originally Posted by LS1GMCTruck
Nope the purple wire goes to the gauge cluster and the black/white wire is grounded on the firewall and seems to be a good ground but i'll move it around tomorrow and see what happens.
My biggest concern now is the transmission. I've seen manual trans. trucks roll off while parked but never one with an automatic.
Can the tachometer signal be changed in the tune or will I need a converter? if a converter is needed is this what I need?
Auto Meter 9117 - Auto Meter Distributorless Ignition Tachometer Adapters - summitracing.com
Last edited by low91; 01-06-2009 at 12:11 AM.
1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.
Ok so I checked it out today and damn do I ever feel stupid.The linkage couldn't move all the way forward because it was hitting the header flange. I don't know how I could have missed that, but it shouldn't be a hard fix I just gotta pull the header find a new flange to weld on and cut the collector down a bit.
So does anyone know how to make the tachometer work on one of these swaps or what?
1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.
theres a whte wire in the pcm use that one.
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The difference between winning and losing, is having a 2nd stage.
I tried that one and even hooked up an aftermarket tach and still nothing. From what I've read on here the 5.3l PCM puts out a different signal than what my tach needs.
1991 Silverado-L33 5.3L, 212/218 .557 .562 115+4, ASP under drive pulley,180* thermostat, 90mm truck intake w/ LS3 throttle body. Shoenfeld conversion headers and duel Flowmaster exhaust. Performabuilt LVL 1 transmission and 23-2500 stall converter.
I used a BakerElectronix.com tach adapter in my 92 truck to use the factory indash tach. You may just have a bad connection if neither tach will work. A newer tach should work just fine without a converter. You have to get the tune setup for the factory tach or buy the adjustable adapter.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
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