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Thread: Brake troubles

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Council Bluffs, Iowa
    Posts
    246

    Brake troubles

    I just finished a brake job on my truck in my sig. New drilled/slotted rotors, ceramic pads, calipers, and SS lines. It has been at least 10 years since I did my last brake job (not on this vehicle), but I decided to give it a shot.

    I bled the system 3 times in a row before I called it good. I was getting a good squirt out of the rear bleeders, but the fronts kinda trickled out. Still, I was pretty sure I got the air out. Bleed sequence was RR-RL-FR-FL. I went through about 1 3/4 huge 32oz bottles of fluid, tried to make sure all the old fluid was flushed out as well.

    Took the truck for a test drive and it was immediately apparent all is not right. Pedal moves about 2/3 - 3/4 to the floor before I get any grab. I decided to continue with my test drive and break in the pads and rotors, as it was night and few people were out. Did 6 or 7 40-0 stops, and while it stopped, the braking power wasn't there. Just before I ended my test drive I got a little smoke off the rears.

    Still not bled right? I bought a Phoenix Systems bleeder, but I used the old method that day because my nephew was with me and I had him pump the pedal. The only other thing I can think of is if the Master Cylinder went bad and the fronts aren't grabbing. ABS seems to be kicking in when the pedal is on the floor, but very weak.

    Major brake system failure is what prompted this brake job before I was ready to do it. I knew the brakes were going bad, but still had to keep driving to save money for the repair. Finally, coming down a hill to a T-intersection, the pedal went to the floor and it was all I could do to get the beast stopped before I hit someone or ran through the intersection into the opposite bean field.

    Left rear rotor was completely destroyed when I took it apart. The outside surfaces of all 4 rotors looked good. The inside surface of the other 3 was only getting about 3/8in contact in the center. By FAR the worst I've ever seen heh. Yes, I took pics and I'll post when the truck is back on the road.

    Suggestions? Try the bleeder tool I have first, and if that doesn't work, replace the Master Cylinder? Something more involved? I didn't have the typical "soft pedal" complaints about my brakes before, as is apparently typical of trucks of my year range. However, I also accelerate and brake like a grandma.

    Input appreciated! I want my truck back

    '02 Avalanche 1500 Z-71, BFG All-Terrains, K&N FIPK, Superchips tuner (Nelson eventually), 750-watt Alpine stereo W/ JL midgate Stealthbox.
    '88 Mustang GT, 400HP on motor, T-56 6-speed, 3.73s, 150HP NOS
    '89 K5 Blazer 1500, blown motor and transmission. Another project some year.
    '95 Polaris 600XCR snowmobile, pipes, heads, bored carbs.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    St. Anthony, Indiana
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    Make sure you didn't put the calipers on upside down. The bleeder screw needs to be on the top of the caliper when it is installed.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Council Bluffs, Iowa
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    Quote Originally Posted by foggy View Post
    Make sure you didn't put the calipers on upside down. The bleeder screw needs to be on the top of the caliper when it is installed.
    So in other words, try switching the fronts around.........L-> R, R -> L. Now that you mention it, I do recall the front bleeders on the new calipers being down low when I bled them. Took them both off at once, so didn't compare to the new ones. Dangit, I marked the outside of the boxes carefully when I got them, according to part number. Already took them back to have my core charge refunded, so I'll never know if it was my mistake or Cardone's. Probably mine though, maybe I got them switched around when I painted them.

    Sounds good, I'll give that a shot in the next few days when I have time. Thanks!

    Boy, don't I feel like a bonehead now >.<

    '02 Avalanche 1500 Z-71, BFG All-Terrains, K&N FIPK, Superchips tuner (Nelson eventually), 750-watt Alpine stereo W/ JL midgate Stealthbox.
    '88 Mustang GT, 400HP on motor, T-56 6-speed, 3.73s, 150HP NOS
    '89 K5 Blazer 1500, blown motor and transmission. Another project some year.
    '95 Polaris 600XCR snowmobile, pipes, heads, bored carbs.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    Good catch Foggy. Yeah, if the bleeders are the highest point on the caliper you'll never get all the air out and the pedal will be spongy like pushing your hand into a fat girls belly.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Council Bluffs, Iowa
    Posts
    246

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat View Post
    Good catch Foggy. Yeah, if the bleeders aren't the highest point on the caliper you'll never get all the air out and the pedal will be spongy like pushing your hand into a fat girls belly.
    Agreed! Very, VERY nice catch, especially over the internet where you can't see the vehicle being discussed. I see how you are though, Foggy.....assuming I'll make a newb mistake! :shakefist:

    And the more I think about it, the more likely it becomes that this is the correct fix. At least it's an easy fix and won't cost me any more money.

    Come and see the idiot, folks! I'll be here all year!

    '02 Avalanche 1500 Z-71, BFG All-Terrains, K&N FIPK, Superchips tuner (Nelson eventually), 750-watt Alpine stereo W/ JL midgate Stealthbox.
    '88 Mustang GT, 400HP on motor, T-56 6-speed, 3.73s, 150HP NOS
    '89 K5 Blazer 1500, blown motor and transmission. Another project some year.
    '95 Polaris 600XCR snowmobile, pipes, heads, bored carbs.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    12,078
    Greg I prefer to be PC and say putting your foot in a cold bowl of oatmeal but that's why you're

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Council Bluffs, Iowa
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    246
    Quote Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat View Post
    Good catch Foggy. Yeah, if the bleeders are the highest point on the caliper you'll never get all the air out and the pedal will be spongy like pushing your hand into a fat girls belly.
    Quote Originally Posted by GasGuzzler View Post
    Greg I prefer to be PC and say putting your foot in a cold bowl of oatmeal but that's why you're
    I prefer the first one. People at work thought it was funny too. I showed a couple of them this thread so they could have a laugh at my expense

    Looks like I'm not gonna have time to fix my truck until my days off, but I'll get right on trying the suggested fix......I'm 90%+ sure that'll do it. Thanks again, Foggy

    '02 Avalanche 1500 Z-71, BFG All-Terrains, K&N FIPK, Superchips tuner (Nelson eventually), 750-watt Alpine stereo W/ JL midgate Stealthbox.
    '88 Mustang GT, 400HP on motor, T-56 6-speed, 3.73s, 150HP NOS
    '89 K5 Blazer 1500, blown motor and transmission. Another project some year.
    '95 Polaris 600XCR snowmobile, pipes, heads, bored carbs.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Council Bluffs, Iowa
    Posts
    246
    Truck finally finished today. Foggy hit it right on the head.

    I had both the calipers AND brackets on the front installed on the wrong side. Must have gotten them mixed up when I had them off for painting before re-installing >.<

    Since I had it apart again, I also chucked the cheap pads that came with my new rotors and put NAPA Ultra Premium ceramics on front and Performance Friction Carbon-Metallics on the rear. The cheap pads that came with my rotors didn't fit quite right, both front inside pads were sticking above the rotor about 1/4", maybe a slight bit less. The Performance Friction pads were a known quantity, I've had them on my Mustang for a good 10 years and loved them. The first 2 stops in my Mustang when the brakes are cold are pretty hairy.....basically ZERO brake until they heat up, but after that they stick like glue. Luckily I live on a dead-end street, so I can do a couple stops to warm the brakes up before I get into traffic. I couldn't find Performance Friction for the front, so went with the NAPA's instead.

    Now that the job is done, the pedal is just a slight bit soft under light braking for my tastes. Step on it hard though, and it tries to throw you through the windshield.....just like I remember on my car To be honest, maybe even a little better than my car (though it's handicapped with rear drums instead of 4 wheel disc). That's saying a LOT in a big, heavy truck.

    Overall, I'm VERY happy with my parts selection and the results. Pics will be posted in a week or so, though I forgot to have my nephew take pics of the last 2 days where I corrected the front caliper mistake. My only complaint is the ABS is still nagging, kicking in just before the truck rolls to a stop, especially if turning at the same time. That makes parking lots kinda hazardous. I probably need to clean the sensors or something, I'll check into that. Straight-line braking from 40+ puts a stupid grin on my face.

    Thanks again Foggy, for the excellent diagnosis I'm sooo happy to finally have my truck back!

    '02 Avalanche 1500 Z-71, BFG All-Terrains, K&N FIPK, Superchips tuner (Nelson eventually), 750-watt Alpine stereo W/ JL midgate Stealthbox.
    '88 Mustang GT, 400HP on motor, T-56 6-speed, 3.73s, 150HP NOS
    '89 K5 Blazer 1500, blown motor and transmission. Another project some year.
    '95 Polaris 600XCR snowmobile, pipes, heads, bored carbs.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    St. Anthony, Indiana
    Posts
    1,592

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    12,078
    Yay. Somehow I did not know there was an issue but foggy and the guy from Alaska usually have the same advice as I do for non-engine stuff.

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