+ Reply to Thread
Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 15

Thread: what type of body filler

  1. #1

    what type of body filler

    what typeof body filler should i use to shave my doors and tail gate and to do body work on the truck???

  2. #2
    what will i need it would good if i had a list so i can go buy the stuff and do it my self... thanks

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    Steel filler usually works best in seam areas where patch panels have been welded. Gotta get it at an auto paint supply store and work it before it hardens completely, rough it in with a grater.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    61
    rage gold
    04 Silverado ext cab. 4.8, K&N, Pacesetter lt's, e cutout, slp loudmouths, Wheatley tune.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Honeywood, Ontario
    Posts
    6,994
    rage gold hands down, go towards a plastic instead of a fibreglass, easier to work with and lighter. But take your time with the sheet metal work so you dont have to use that much filler. And don't try to do all the filler work all at once, do it in multiple thin coats
    2006 Silverado
    Little Black Bitch

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Louisiana
    Posts
    61
    Yes, take your time with the metal work so you have minimal filler. Slow with the welder so you dont warp up the sheetmetal.
    04 Silverado ext cab. 4.8, K&N, Pacesetter lt's, e cutout, slp loudmouths, Wheatley tune.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    2,172
    I can't help but have a bad feeling about this one........
    I've seen some bad weekend warrior jobs. But if you are a skilled enough welder then the body work should be minimal.
    2005 black Yukon XL SLT - traded in for me wife's new Fusion (GM sucks these days)
    2002 black Yukon SLT (the skinny sister)
    1969 green Pontiac GTO (Layla, AKA the black sheep)

    INSTALLS AND MORE.. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...-low-life.html
    Sticky/broken gauges? I can help. PM me for details.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Augusta, Ks
    Posts
    3,246
    I must agree. Coming from a body shop background we have had to redo many jobs where someone has attepmted to save some money. But it ends up costing more because they have it all messed up.
    2000 Silverado ECSB- 5.3 CAI, Pacesetter LTs, ORY- Pipe, Magnaflow XL, E-fan, Ported T/B , Nelson Tuned, Built 4l60e, Circle D Stall, 3.42s G80, 2-4 Drop, Hertz Highs, Rockford 501s

    2004 Buell XB12s

    Quote Originally Posted by LamboDoNoMo View Post
    "Never give up, NEVER BACK DOWN!!!"

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    2,172
    Yup! Not everything is as easy as it looks.
    2005 black Yukon XL SLT - traded in for me wife's new Fusion (GM sucks these days)
    2002 black Yukon SLT (the skinny sister)
    1969 green Pontiac GTO (Layla, AKA the black sheep)

    INSTALLS AND MORE.. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...-low-life.html
    Sticky/broken gauges? I can help. PM me for details.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Round Rock, TX
    Posts
    3,069
    I have shaved tons of doors over the past 12yrs. And all I can say is its going to warp. No way around it. Just have to make sure you know how to work it back out. One good tip is to use the same thickness material to fill the holes with as the stock sheetmetal. It makes life alot easier to work the panel back straight. Too often people use 16/18 guage metal then its too tough to work anything out and you make a mess. Plus a good set of hammer and dollys is your friend.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts