Ya its factory lol. I know its wierd because my buddys truck doesnt have it either and his is a 93 which is basically identical
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What makes me think it's not factory is that all the wires are the same color. GM color codes their harness except for replacement pigtails, which all I've seen are white wires on the replacement pigtails.
I replied in your thread about nelsons harness. If your 94 is like my 92 there's a lil power block under the dash on the. Drivers side that the 4x4 system gets its power from. So all of your factory connections for the transfer case stay execpt for the vss one. And like red said the reverse lights are in the with the colum because our trucks didn't have the switch on the trans like the newer ones do.
Received Nelsons harness today. I am stunned with how clean it is! You could easily make your engine look like it has no wires running to it. All of the wires are the right length and I had no problem reaching any thing. I AM VERY PLEASED WITH IT and would recommend it 100%
The only question I have is I cant figure out what to do with the VSS connector. The 2 connectors on my trans case are for my old OBS harness connectors, and the 2 connectors on my tranny are already connected ( 1 is the giant 13 wire connector, and the other is the 2 wire connector about 6" away)
ready to see some pics. This looks like a fun build .
On my 80e there's a plug not a connector on the the rear where the sensor is suppose to be on a 2wd. The 4wds use the front sensor on the trans and the output comes from the tailshaft of the transfer case. The other connector on your ytransfer case is for the shifter. Its the one that engages your front axle and the lighht on your indicator IF its like my 92.
Nelsons harness is hooked up for the most part, installed the drivers side head and it was just barely hitting the frame rail so I have 2 ratchet straps sucking it toward the passenger side right now. had them wrapped in ceran wrap and then tin foil on top of that so they wouldnt get scratches, or my greasy finger prints. Going to let it sit like that over night. Got my throttle body on as well and now I have to figure out where I am going to mount the ecm because i want it inside but it wont fit behind my glove box, its just too bulky. any ideas for where to put it INSIDE.
Doesnt look like I am going to be mounting the ECM inside the truck...just not enough room. Theres 2 things I could do to possibly make it work and thats either shove it under the passenger seat (which it wont fit good because the wires wont be long enough, or cut the fins off the ecm and see if it will fit in the dash then. So I think Ill just put it where my stock batt was. And I am still stuck on my VSS connector. I still have an extra one left and I can not find any left over plugs on the tranny or xfer case. I have the front one on the tranny plugged in and I looked all over for where I plug the second vss in and I cant find anything. Theres nothing on the tranny and nothing on the xfer case (besides the 2 plugs that my old harness plugs into)
The vss will plug in to the rear of your transfer case. You will have to wire the vss output freom your swap harness to the speedo and get rid of the original plug that you left in your transfer for the vss only. You'll need the one that plugs in above the shift linkage so your front end will engage.
Went to the junkyard today and found a aux battery tray for the drivers side for 5 bucks. only saved 75 bucks from getting it from LMC or my local dealer. Bought (2) 2002 camaro v8 o2 sensors for nelsons harness, and I am going to run my power wire for my subs on the drivers side today which will be fun because i have it ran under my seats/carpet inside the truck on the pass side, so i get to play the teardown game today for the most part. Still trying to figure out some wiring as well. If anyone needs a CAI for their swap NOW is the time to buy one. Summit has the spectre 9900 on sale for 149 (normally 200) and then once you get it you send in the UPC to spectre for another 20 dollar mail in rebate!
Got a few more things done last night, battery is mounted on drivers side, batt cables are ran, I put my stock pass batt tray in and I am going to try mounting my ecm there IF my CAI doesnt interfere. It should be here monday or tues. Also put the pass header on. It was hitting up the tranny which is wierd because the kit said it would fit 4.8 5.3 AND my 6.0...so that means it shouldnt be hitting my tranny. Anyway no big deal I ended up cutting off the ear (it was the ear for the coverter inspection plate) and now it fits great. Good clearance all around.
You must have had an 80E. I had to do that to run my own home built headers when i switched from a 60E to an 80E, cut the ear off the driver side of the trans bell housing.
That thing is looking good.
More updates. CAI is on. Doesn't fit perfect (hits rear housing of headlight and inner fender), but I guess that keeps it snug right lol because I dont have it actually mounted to anything. I also modified my old passenger side battery tray to hold my ecm on top of the inner fender well. I just drilled the spot welds off and took the support bracket off so its just an actual tray. Then this weekend I am going to get some metal straps and figure out a way to hold the ecm down, whether its bolting it down so its snug, or a clamp style like one of those portable tool boxes where u hook it around then press down to snug it. Other concern was my dipstick hitting my headers and the original bolt that bolted the dipstick to the head doesnt work with the pacesetter headers. SO, i drilled the 3 little spots welds on the dipstick bracket and took it completley off and I am going to reweld it on the dipstick this weekend so it bolts to a difference hole on the head. now thats thinkin' with yer dipstick!
Heres another way to hook up your coolant temp sensor to make your gauge work. I'd like to give thanks to my neighbor Chris for helping me with the wiring. If you are trying to avoid buying the stupid adapters (that are always the wrong size) for your coolant temp sensor, Buy the following:
(1) Coolant temp sensor for a 98 FIREBIRD (NOT THE CAMARO, THEY ARE DIFFERENT) with the v8 ls1. MAKE SURE IT IS THE 3 PRONG SENSOR! Its only 8 bucks.
(1) Coolant temp sensor PIG TAIL CONNECTOR for a 98 camaro v8 ls1. AGAIN MAKE SURE IT IS THE 3 PRONG.
then all you do is screw the sensor into your motor, cut your old 2 wire connector off (yellow and black wires) and attach the new connector that you just bought. And yes you will have one extra wire, thats what you hook your gauge up to, IF it was the old 1 wire style like mine.
Get yourself a laser temp gauge and measure the actual water temp, it will be way off with the 98 sensor. BTW, WTH are you getting a 98 model Camaro water temp sensor for $8? IIRC I paid about $50 more than that for mine when I tried that.
Lol I got it at napa and there was a small discount through my work I think it was listed at 18 or so but even for reg customers with no acc there is usially a little disc. I figured my gauge would be off bc the resistance differences bit my gauge was always off to bein with it would show 120 at 180
Getting really close! Old harness is in, tried to crank it over and I have a few issues. The starter is jamming up against the fly wheel. When you turn the key, the starter gear shoots out and goes into the flywheel teeth, but its jamming and not releasing which is weird because the msd starter i bought is considered non shimable so it should work just fine. Other problems are NO BRAKE LIGHTS!?!?!?! I dont get that. My blinkers flash really fast. But my tail lights work. And when I turn on my heater blower motor, it clicks really fast and lights flicker. I love electrical. Not. Ill post updated pics soon. Also modified the dipstick tube so it can be used with my headers, and made a sweet ecm hold down tray.
Got a lot done tonight, most of the problems fixed. Fuel pump is hot and running, blinkers are good now and blinking normally, fan blower motor operates normally. I am pretty sure it was a big ground problem, i went through all my grounds and made sure they were clean/bare metal and it seemed to fix everything.
Fired up thee ole turd last night for the first time. Started right up and runs smooth with no surging. THANKS NELSON PERFORMANCE! I let it run for probably a minute with the open headers and noticed the oil cooler lines right at the radiator were leaking, but its not coming out of the threads, its coming out of where the lines go into the connector that threads into the radiator. So I will be buying a block off plate because I hate running those cooler lines to begin with. They always seem to leak, get kinked, and are always in the way. I believe the GM part # is 12577903 for the block off plate. I also realized that my brake booster still needs to be hooked up and has no port on the back of the motor (yet) to run a hose from the intake to the booster because my LS motor was hydroboost. So I will also have to pop out that plug on the back of the intake and replace it with a nipple that I think is GM part #12559760.
Heres some pics if anyone is looking for how I did things.
The first pic is the green/blue wire. If you wire your coolant temp like I did, this is the signal wire to your gauge. The green wire is the old obs harness wire, the blue is part of the 3 wire (98 firebird) pigtail.
Second pic- Coolant temp sensor with the 2 remaining wires. I had to cut nelsons 2 wire connector off (yellow and brn i think). Then you hook up the new 98 firebird wires to it. I think gray goes to yellow. and blk goes to brn. Ask me if you need help so I can 100% confirm it.
Third Pic of the rear part of alt. I had my old OBS wire running to it for the gauge, and I have the new LS harness lead running to it as well.
4th pic- Power junction block on firewall. I have the fuel pump running off this with some others including power from the starter lead running up to it, and my subs.
5th pic- Just a pic of where I mounted my OBDII port. It has a really bright LED light on it, so I put it basically lined up with the 4wd shifter so its not blinding anyone when the SES light is on.
To be continued.....(only lets you upload 5 pics at a time)
6th- just a pic showing you a good spot for a tach since you will need one that goes to a higher RPM with these newer LS motors. Since the obs cluster only goes to 4500 lol.
7th pic- This is how I am holding down my ECM on the pass wheel well. I used my old drivers side battery tray by cutting off the support bracket so its just a flat tray. THen I got a 1" wide by about 10" long stainless strap from my buddies work and welded one side of the strap to the bottom of the tray, and then the otherside I drilled a hole and welded a nut to the tray. Bent up the strap to fit snug around the ecm, and then you just snug it down.
8th- Also had to modify the dipstick because the headers were in the way. I basically just relocated the bracket by drilling the 3 spots welds, and welding it on a different location to push it a little bit forward and keep it off the header
what is that brown wire you have going to the power lug on the alternator for?
Got more done tonight. Went and bought the oil cooler block off plate, gasket, and bolts (yes they are shorter than the bolts with the oil cooler). Cut out the lines and tossed em, blocked off my ports on my radiator, and installed the plate. Fired her up and let her run for a little bit. Love the sound of it. I have open headers on it right now but its sooo much better than the old crappy tbi motors thats sound like open manifolds. Also wired my autometer tach up. Can anyone tell me what wires I hook up for my stock tach, and my speedo? OH ya and I ordered the brake booster vaccuum nipple, should be here wednesday it was only 4 bucks. Once thats here it will be ready for a ride down the road!!!
question for yah man..... the sender on the top of the intake, what is it for....? it looks like u blocked it off
i believe thats what it is... and thank u that solves a little hood issues
Going to try to test drive the truck tomorrow! I want to make sure I have 2 things right:
First I need to hook up my speedo/cruise control? In another post I read that all you do is access the vssb box behind the dash and find the lt. blue wire with white stripe and the red wire with white stripe and put both of those in the same end of a butt connector. Then on the other side of the butt connector put the speedo wire from the computer. Is this true? Want to make sure before I do it.
Second, my nelson harness came with 2 speed sensors but i only used one of them (hooked on the front of the tranny). Because I used my old obs vss for the second one. So what do I do with the other Nelsons vss? Just let it be? Thanks Guys.
I can not help you but in my case I plan to use this http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/pn-716073e/Advance Adapter kit in the 4l60e to np241 adapter.I will not wiring the 4 low signal to the PCM and flash 2WD tune...the trany should shift ok in 4 low but the speedo will think I go faster then I go in reality
Got the truck out again today. It wasn't shifting out of first, so I ended up cutting The rear VSS connector from nelsons harness and cutting my 2 wire vss connector on my t case and mated the purple with the purple in one butt connector in one end, and then the purple from my obs connector in the other end. Then I put the other 2 wires together as well so my obs wires are still getting a signal. That helped my shifting problems. As I came back from my half mile trip, i looked under the truck and found a empty plug that was by the front of the t case ( but not part of the t case) if was just a random 2 wire plug in the harness. I looked for the same connector and found a thick black shielded wire with two wires inside ( a purple, and I green i think). I hooked those up, took it back out and it seemed like it didnt want to shift. OF COURSE lol. there was also a black wire with a white stripe along with that sheilded wire, so i will have to mess with that tomorrow. trying not to make the neighbors mad going down my subdivision with open long tubes. Another problem- NO HEAT! the blower motor is working but i am getting no hot heat