LS1 vs. 6.0L

[farmtruc]

So what engine is best for a swap?

No boring or altering the engine block or rotating assembly , EXCEPT CAM.

What do you think would be better, do you think the ls1 or 6L would make more power and why? Will the extra cubes put the 6L in front or will the lighter LS1 win? Also, you must keep the stock heads on. Would it matter if you used the 6L from a HD or an Escalade since you change the cam anyway?

The ls1 is a proven winner, but many ppl are swapping the 6L also, and it's running pretty good times also.

Me personally , i would go for the ls1, just my preference,


anyone?


allen

[Sleeper]

id go for the ls1 too unless i was gonna go all out with a motor. id love to turbo a 6.0L, but the LS1 to me would retain some driveablilty and deliver some great power, while (and this is only my opinion) i kinda think the 6.0L doesnt get as good mpg due to it being built more with towing in mind being that they(GM) put em in the heavier vehicles(Caddy, HD)


cant you rev a LS1 a little higher too?...i know you can an LS6

Brandon

[farmtruc]

You sure can rev them higher, when i spun a cam bearing , shawn from smcperformance.com sent me another shorblock and it was a ls6 engine, with ls1 internals, i immediately noticed the higher and smoother revs, the engine can safely rev to 6500,

also with the old ls1 setup, i was running a 14.9, when i got my new stuff in, i was running 14.2's, of course that was before all the tweeking i did and other stuff,

that's two for LS1 none for 6L, hehehe


later,

allen

[GMCwantsLS1]

I like the 6L but the LS1 has higher compression and is lighter. You know which one I went with!!

[91ls1]

I have decided to go with a 6.0 as my next project. I got a salvage 99 for $650. Its rated at 300hp/355 tq. Toss out the cast iron 9.5:1 heads, for some 5.7's, and the 191/190 cam(F-body's use a 196/207 stock) for 236/236, ls6 intake over the torqie LQ4, and some long tubes (if I can find some that fit my 91). The iron block is what 60-80 pounds more, thats equal to what a spare tire and 7 gallons of gas, big deal. It will either haul azz or blow up into a huge fireball, we will see in 6 months.
And of course if you want to really go nuts.

Iron Block Combinations
370 cid
GM 6.0L Iron Block
Stock 3.62" crank - nodular iron
Manley Sportsman rods 6.100"
Wiseco flat top forged aluminum pistons 4.030" bore

408 cid
GM 6.0L Iron Block
Lunati 4.00" crank - 4340 forged steel
Lunati billet rods 6.125"
Wiseco flat top pistons 4.030" bore size

427 cid
GM 6.0L Iron Block
Callies 4.125" crank - 4340 forged steel
Lunati billet rods 6.125"
Wiseco 8cc dish pistons 4.060" bore size

[Hit Man X]

I like the LQ4 6.0 as it has a larger 4" bore vs 3.90" LS1...both crank strokes are the same. But it has lower compression which sucks. Yet is has better heads ('01+). If you could mill the heads a bit that is what I'd prefer.

The LQ9 has the higher compression of the 6.0's and that is my choice. Sick a 216/222 street cam in there with that compression and the large chamber version of the LS6 heads and off ya go.

The LS1/6 is slightly lighter, has higher compression, and well yeah. This can't be overbored very much without hard-core expenisve resleeving.

I'd assume the slightly better heads and larger bore could equate to comparable or more power with the 6.0HO over the LS1. All else being equal (headers, intake, etc)

It is really a toss up on those if you want an iron block or aluminum.

[Sleeper]

Originally posted by farmtruc@Aug 26 2003, 09:45 AM

No boring or altering the engine block or rotating assembly , EXCEPT CAM.

you must keep the stock heads on.

you guys are missing something here

[farmtruc]

It's definitely a toss up, i wish i had lots of time , and engine dyno, and tons of parts, that would badass, to make a book with every combination and comparison, i'm dreaming, i know, but it would be fun.

Once the tahoe loses it's engine, I'm sticking a HD setup in there, it's a 99 'hoe with the older TBI vortec, i'll be putting the 6L and 4L80E in there, that should be just right, like chevy should have, plus being 4x4 the frame in the engine compartment is wide open, i think it will be very easy to do, except i'll have to make some steps around the truck , being that's kind of tall, hahah


later,

allen

[91ls1]

Originally posted by Sleeper+Aug 30 2003, 08:03 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Sleeper &#064; Aug 30 2003, 08:03 PM)</div>

<!--QuoteBegin-farmtruc

@Aug 26 2003, 09:45 AM

No boring or altering the engine block or rotating assembly , EXCEPT CAM.

you must keep the stock heads on.

you guys are missing something here [/b]

It would cost less to replace cast iron heads on a 99-00 rather than buy a 01+ with aluminum heads, cast iron heads I would assume are out of the question. If your gonna do a swap why not do it right the first time.

[Hit Man X]

Originally posted by 91ls1+Aug 31 2003, 12:40 PM--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(91ls1 &#064; Aug 31 2003, 12:40 PM)</div>

Originally posted by Sleeper@Aug 30 2003, 08:03 PM
<!--QuoteBegin-farmtruc

@Aug 26 2003, 09:45 AM

No boring or altering the engine block or rotating assembly , EXCEPT CAM.

you must keep the stock heads on.

you guys are missing something here

It would cost less to replace cast iron heads on a 99-00 rather than buy a 01+ with aluminum heads, cast iron heads I would assume are out of the question. If your gonna do a swap why not do it right the first time. [/b]

BUT the 99-00 have a longer crank than the &#39;01+ blocks...meaning they only bolt up to a 4L80E.

The &#39;01 use a crank spacer to be used with a 4L80E trans...means a 4L60E bolts up easy, then the 4L80E needs the spacer.

A 99-00 is only a good core block to use. I&#39;d toss the heads and crank. Find a used LS1 crank (same stroke and shorter) and find some 4.85.3 heads for high compression or LS1 heads for decent compression