+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: help diagnose

Hybrid View

  1. #1

    help diagnose

    Where are the ground connections that I have to worry about? Ever since I did the 6.0 swap I've had p2681 and now I've been getting a code for low voltage on my knock sensors.

    The truck runs normal when the codes are off/cleared but when they come on I go rich. Its driving me nuts!! I cleaned the block connection for the ground wire coming from the battery, and the 2 on the backside which one is in the trans harness and the other is in the loom for the passenger side injectors.

    any suggestions on what could cause this problem?

    another symptom that leads me to a ground issue, my voltage drains down drastically on certain things. just putting up the windows or running the defroster. It'll spike and then come back up.

    I don't recall nor have I seen any pinched wires

    Could bad knock sensor's cause this?

    How do I remove a knock sensor that wont come out? I tried replacing the back one, but when I broke it loose it just spins but doesn't unscrew. I don't know what they are called but I think there is something like this pressed in the block which the knock sensors screw into and its just spinning but doesn't come out



    that's the knock sensor location on my 4.8

    '00 T/A WS6 M6 - GONE!!!!
    '04 Chevy Silverado ECSB -LQ4/80e swapped, 799 heads, Comp 212/218 114lsa, TSP LS6 oil pump, LS1 e-fans, LPP LT's, ORY, Magnaflow muffler, and a slighty tweaked tune

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Southern WI
    Posts
    460
    On the knock sensor code issue, they produce their own ac voltage by a crystal inside them that vibrates, (if you already knew that I apologize) so I would look at the wire off each one being it's a signal wire to the pcm. I've also read about the torquing of them being critical when installing, and that it can affect their output. The large voltage drop isssue you are having could definately be ground related, but just to be safe double check all of your connections and look for corrosion of any kind...basically anything to cause a resistance in those circuits. Hope I could be of some help.
    Mike
    2000 RCSB
    '05 LS2 11.5:1 C.R. l K&N l LT's l Torquer V2 l PAC Springs l Manley 7.4's l 92mm TB l LS7 Lifters l Circle-D 3200 l P&P TB l ARP Rod Bolts l LS1 E-fans l Nelson 93 Tune l Brand-X 100 Shot l Walbro 255 l Duals w/ X and Magnapacks l Vette Servo l Transgo S.K. l 30K Cooler l Detroit Tru-Trac l Motive 4.30's l ARP Cap Studs l TA Girdle

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Paris, TX
    Posts
    511
    I have replace a lot of these at the dealership. If it just spins then you have to take the valley cove off and turn the outside of the sensor with a pair of channel locks. If it is a 6.0 block then the knock sensor holes are part of the block casting (no inserts). Get the small round gasket for valley cover since you will probably rip it during removal. Over time I have learned it is best to only use gm sensors and usually replace the knock sensor sub harness at the same time.


    Picture of knock sensor mounts in the valley. Note: this is a 5.3 block
    99' Silverado RCSB Z71: 5.7L Iron LS1, 11.2:1, Custom EPS Cam, Ported 862's,Ported TB, E-Bay Cold Air, E-Bay Long Tubes, Dynomax X-Pipe Exhaust, Electric Fans, Innovative LC-1, Self Built 4L60E, Circle D Pro Single Disc, 4:10 ValueTrac


    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=7887&dateline=1270435  715

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by 1_fastsilverado View Post
    On the knock sensor code issue, they produce their own ac voltage by a crystal inside them that vibrates, (if you already knew that I apologize) so I would look at the wire off each one being it's a signal wire to the pcm. I've also read about the torquing of them being critical when installing, and that it can affect their output. The large voltage drop isssue you are having could definately be ground related, but just to be safe double check all of your connections and look for corrosion of any kind...basically anything to cause a resistance in those circuits. Hope I could be of some help.
    thanks, I'll check again

    Quote Originally Posted by country_3030 View Post
    I have replace a lot of these at the dealership. If it just spins then you have to take the valley cove off and turn the outside of the sensor with a pair of channel locks. If it is a 6.0 block then the knock sensor holes are part of the block casting (no inserts). Get the small round gasket for valley cover since you will probably rip it during removal. Over time I have learned it is best to only use gm sensors and usually replace the knock sensor sub harness at the same time.


    Picture of knock sensor mounts in the valley. Note: this is a 5.3 block
    thanks, this is what I was hoping to hear. My problem is that the sensor is stuck in and the valley cover is still on. I'm gonna try to lift the valley cover up enough to get a pair of vise grips or channel locks on it. Hopefully I can get it loose

    '00 T/A WS6 M6 - GONE!!!!
    '04 Chevy Silverado ECSB -LQ4/80e swapped, 799 heads, Comp 212/218 114lsa, TSP LS6 oil pump, LS1 e-fans, LPP LT's, ORY, Magnaflow muffler, and a slighty tweaked tune

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts