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Thread: new project lots of questions! need adivce and opinions.

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
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    Sour Lake Tx
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    309

    new project lots of questions! need adivce and opinions.

    i finally got started on my 89 rcsb 2wd project truck i bought 2 years ago off my neighbor for 300 bucks after her son wrecked it. It started out that i was going to just hang new sheetmetal shoot some single phase on it and sell it but the more i took appart the more i got ideas for it. So i took it to work and let the body guys check the frame and found out the passenger frame horn was bent slightly in and back but the rest of the frame was true and square. I talked the body guy into straightening it for me for free. i got a oem front clip for 200 bucks from a friend of mine and im getting to the stage where it comes to paint. My plans for it as of now are to keep the blue interior mostly stock i did however aquire factory power windows complete with wiring harness from a cfc donor truck. I have removed the dash and installed the power window harness and replaced the evaporator and heater core and im in the process of reassembling. I still have to remove the body lift and get some fiberglass work done to the step bed.

    All that being said i will get to the real meat and potatoes. since im removing the body lift i am going to take full advantage of the lifts at work and completely remove the cab to undercoat it as well as the bed.
    i plan on doing the frame this month and i was wondering what should i paint the frame with? por 15? or some rustoleum? the frame has a lot of surface rust due to the fact it sat in some tall weeds for two years. I really dont want to completely sand the frame down and paint it as this is a driver and not a show truck. I dont want to end up removing everything from the frame and media blasting and painting it. At most i was going to pressure wash the frame wipe it down and paint. i just want something that will stick for the purpose of a street driven truck. i dont like doing things half assed and its really hard for me to not completely dissasemble the frame and do the job right but i have to stop somewhere.
    since the body is going to be removed would anyone put poly mounts under it or just reuse the factory mounts? Is there really any benefit of poly body mounts other than they may last longer?

    I am completely removing the 305 and 5 speed transmission that still runs to make way for the ls powertrain. I was really wanting to get a salvage l92 6l80e complete and install it. at most the bolt ons would be long tubes, tune, cam, and maybe a stall converter if anyone makes one yet. that being said once the cab is reinstalled, does anyone make conversion mounts that will allow the factory ac location with no fram notching? I dont mind notching the frame but if i can get away without notching it i will. does anyone know where to start as far as getting the cab in the right spot when it goes back on? Is there a procedure for finding where the cab should be for proper sheetmetal fitament?

    now for the fun part I want blue and silver two tone but i dont know where the paint break should be or if the blue should be the upper color or the silver should be? I really love the design on truck #88 of the calendar voting trucks Whos truck is that? the paint scheme is friggin outstanding! I want to steal the paint scheme but change the colors! I pride myself in being original when it comes to custom stuff but i really want to use those same lines! I have been thinking about what to do with the paint job for two years and i have came up with nothing. I really wanted to chrome the door handles and tailgate handle, and with silver on the bottom I will be able to.

    I got some use blue door panels off ebay and im going to have them recovered like new and i want to leave the interior mostly original save for some speakers. I am replaceing the carpet due to the fact this truck is a 5 speed that im converting to auto. What should i use the deaden the interior noise? Dynomat? is there some spray in stuff? anyone have any comparisons?

    For body mods i plan on chroming the door handles and tailgate handle. I dont want to relocate the tailgate handle because i dont like the reach in the bed to open it. ss front bumper cover, street scene speed grille halo headlights and clear chrome led tail lights. chrome rear bumper no roll pan. I want a bed cover but i want a low profile one. i really want to keep the wheels no bigger than 20's. anyone know who makes a solid bed cover that doesnt look like a damn turtle shell? what about suspesion drop? 2/4 or 4/6? if anyone has any suggestions, critiques, or just feels that im really f ing up feel free to say so. what would yall do for mods?
    EATIN' FORDS AND TUNDRAS

    RIP 2005 VHO ecsb 6.0HO, Comp Cam, Nelson Tune, OBX LT's.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth
    Posts
    9,578
    i was wondering what should i paint the frame with? por 15? or some rustoleum?

    I would go with POR15. But even some black tractor paint works well also. As far as the rust, I would hit it with rust eater stuff. I would get a dremel or a drill with a wire brush wheel and clean it/knock the surface rust off and spray treat it with rust eater--then use the POR15.

    since the body is going to be removed would anyone put poly mounts under it or just reuse the factory mounts? Is there really any benefit of poly body mounts other than they may last longer?

    Poly mounts are gunna be a little stiffer and they will last longer. I would recommend poly mounts for 4WD trucks. I would just go with the factory rubber mounts.

    does anyone make conversion mounts that will allow the factory ac location with no fram notching?

    Not 100% sure, but I think you'll have to notch it.

    does anyone know where to start as far as getting the cab in the right spot when it goes back on?

    Once you take the cab off, there should be witness marks on the bottom that show where the cab sat on the mounts. You could even go as far as breaking out the tape measure and make sure it's centered.

    Is there a procedure for finding where the cab should be for proper sheetmetal fitament?

    Once you have squared up the cab and tightened it, the sheetmetal stuff should fit well. Be prepared to take them on and off a few times to make sure everything lines up correctly.

    where the paint break should be or if the blue should be the upper color or the silver should be? I really love the design on truck #88 of the calendar voting trucks Whos truck is that? Not sure about the person's truck, but it should be at or follow the body crease right below the window sill.

    What should i use the deaden the interior noise?
    Dynomat? is there some spray in stuff? anyone have any comparisons?

    Dynomat is expensive--but there are lower priced alternatives out there that will get the job done, like Raammat, edead v.2, Fat Mat, Peal N Seal, B-Quiet.

    anyone know who makes a solid bed cover that doesnt look like a damn turtle shell?

    I have an Astro which is pretty flat, but it is barely humped in the middle for drainage. My model is damn near 9 years old by now...so it may be discontinued. Its a great product--shocks are still good, the rubber seal still works and keeps the bed waterproof, the lock and hinges are still fine.

    what about suspesion drop? 2/4 or 4/6?

    I'd go with some Centerline 18" wheels on a 2/4 drop.

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

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