6.0 oil cooler lines

[kossuth]

I am swapping a LS1 into my S10 pickup and have come across this problem. I had to use a LS truck oil pan because of how far forward the fbody and Vette pan would sit it would require me to cut even more of my front frame crossmember.

The result of using a LS truck pan is that the sump is just way too deep for a lowered S10. As a result I have to have 2" cut off the bottom of it to get it above the front frame crossmember. With that I'm going to lose about 2 quarts of oil capacity. I am having a kickout welded into the side of the pan, but I'm only going to get about 1 quart of oil back by doing that. I am using a 2 row radiator out of a 2wd blazer with a 5 speed which several guys have used with LT1 swaps with little trouble. The radiator has a built in oil cooler and I was looking to have custom lines made. I noticed that there was a blockoff plate on the pan above the filter. I suspected this was for a oil cooler. I inspected a HD 6.0 equipped truck and I'm correct it is for a oil cooler. Now my question is where can I find the block unit that bolts to the pan? I'm trying to do this as factory looking as possible and I figured this would give me back about another 1/2 quart of oil which is about as close as I can hope to get I guess, maybe a taller filter would help as well if it doesn't go below the bottom of the pan. Any ideas would be appreciated. If somebody has a junk set of lines laying around with the block on them let me know what you want for the block. Thanks a bunch.

[Tydriver]

Greetings, I have a couple of quick suggestions for you as I have experienced some of the items you touch on in your post. I am in the process of converting an LS1 to an LS6 and dropping it in my 1992 GMC Typhoon. Once its in I am going to turbocharge it.

I may suggest that you consider a HOLDEN FRONT SUMP oil pan. They are on ebay from time to time. Since I am working with an older generation S-series truck than you my options are a little different. However, since I am retaining the AWD I have to also deal with the front axle housing and tube assembly. The 6.0L truck pan is what I selected and have modified to use on my conversion. I am also with you on the appearance as STOCK as possible. I have uploaded almost every item I have acquired for the conversion onto my gallery (complete with GM part numbers).

If you are considering retaining the AC, you have 2 options:

#1 Chop and section the front frame for the AC compressor

#2 Acquire the bracketry from Street and Perfomance (Street and Performance) to move the ac compressor UP and out of the frames way.

Personally I dont like chopping the frame, I will tell you that Street and Performance brackets aren't cheap. The entire kit with AC Compressor is $529

As far as radiators are concerned, Jags That Run have a good idea (Jags That Run), that I will employ on my Typhoon. They take a radiator out of an 84-89 C4 and slide it under the radiator support of my generation S-10. I am not sure how much difference there is in the rad supports between our two trucks. You maybe able to employ the same thought process on yours. This will allow you to acquire and additional 4-5" of much needed room.

There is a book on ebay that addresses this very conversion as you are contemplating. The guy drops in a Z06 (LS6) motor into a '00 S-truck. IMO, he's sort of a hack but gets the job done. But I dont feel its worth the $$ he charges as its not very well written IMO.

As far as adding additional capacity, consider adding a separate cooler and a bigger oil filter, that should help SOME with your issues.

And lastly, the shameless plug for my website and gallery. If you are bored, go ahead and check out Turbo LS6 Typhoon Project and the gallery that has some pics.

[kossuth]

Hey nice to hear from you man. On the AC I decided to notch the frame because nobody has tried it as far as I know and I needed to use C5 accessories anyways. I got the compressor, compressor pigtail, bracket, idler assembly, and all bolts for the conversion for less than $200 so it was a money factor too in a way. Knowing what I know now I wouldn't do it again but I did it and will make it work. I'm sure there will be no problem being I'm having a professional welder I know box the frame. He has backhalfed a few drag cars so I'm sure he will do fine. As for the oilpan a front sump won't work. I looked into that and the frame crossmember just won't work at all. I would rather cut out of the back and leave the front vs cutting the front and leaving the back. Being the truck sits so low(4/5 drop) I would rather have the crossmember hit before the pan hits being it is probiably going to drag at some point or another you know. The radiator is a work in progress right now. I plan to use the stock 4.3 radiator that I have at the moment but once I get the core support on the truck with the accessories and such on the motor plans are possible to change. That is a TBD at the moment but I would like to reuse it if possible. The area under the core support on the 2nd gen trucks is really shallow. Actually the AC condensor sits in there. Can't move it any further ahead because of the hood latch assembly. Again I'm kinda hoping I can get away with the stock radiator Any suggestions on that fitting would be appreciated. Thanks for the reply man. Let me know of any other ideas.

[kossuth]

anybody????

[Tydriver]

Originally posted by kossuth@Apr 22 2004, 08:30 PM
anybody????

Sorry about the lack of a reply, I was at work and didnt have a chance to respond. The part in question that you are looking for came with the LS1 I purchased. It obviously doesnt have any lines attatched in my application since I dont think that was an Fbody option, however, it could easily be drilled and tapped if you want to go that route. Also, its possible that it would show up in a parts listing at the dealer. I'd send you the one I have but I need it to feed the turbo so eventually I will be using it.


Sorry if I stepped on your toes about the frame notching deal, I didnt mean to. Most DIY'er people dont have the level of skill you obviously do with a welder (myself included) or know someone with those skills, and it scares me what some people would let go. In the case you mentioned I'm sure you can make it look like a GM frame modification. I was also going from the grounds that I dont want to alter my Typhoon's frame or anything that couldnt later be reversed. I know for certain that I will never put it back to the troublesome 4.3L, but who knows, maybe someday if I would ever sell it (doubtful) some one else may.