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Thread: Master cylinder for a T56?

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Hillsboro, OR
    Posts
    42

    Master cylinder for a T56?

    Anyone have suggestions for what to do for a master cylinder for putting the T56 into an '89 C1500?
    I was told the master cylinder from the F-body car that donated the 5.7 LS1is mounted at 45 deg. The orig 89 master cylinder has too small of bore. Has anyone done a T56 into their OBS? What can I do for a MC? The fittings are unique on the hydraulic line and I'm not sure how I could extend the F-body line as well.
    thanks
    gl18rider

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    147

    Master cylinder

    I have a 92 that came with a 5 speed. I put a new factory replacement on mine when I put the T56 in as well as a new slave cylinder for the transmission. Mine shifts great. I think the S10 has the same master but has a braided line that fits the T56 slave.
    The F-body ones require a lot of work to make work with no gain over a truck master in my opinion. You could also use one of wilwood's units. I am note sure which part numbers work since it has been a while since I converted mine.
    Any other questions I can help with feel free to ask.
    '92 Fullsize, swb rc
    5.3L/T56 conversion, comp XR275 HR cam .566/.568 lift 222/224 duration 112 lsa, crane dual springs, trick flow push rods, K&N Filter, Nelson Performance tune, Keisler shifter relocation kit, Boyd Coddington Smoothie II 18x8 235/55 up front, 18x10 295/45 out back, 2/4 drop, eaton lsd w/4.56 gears

  3. #3
    I'm also running a T56 in an OBS ('90 RCSB) and I'm using the regular truck master and it works fine. My T56 is LTx based so I'm running an Fbody Slave cylinder. I used the stock GM truck hydraulic clutch line and it worked fine, although I had to really change the bends to work with the T56. I'd go for a braided custom line if I did it again, just to save a little bit of time maybe.

    My buddy put together this writeup on swapping out a 4L60 for a T56 *dialup warning*
    http://www.gmt400.com/forum/showthre...ialup-warning*

    pnhigg, have you ever had any problems with your hydraulic TOB?? Where can I find one for cheap??? I'm planning on convertiny my LTx T56 to an LSx T56 once I get the money to buy an LQ4 and do that swap. Also, the LQ4 will work with the LS T56 won't it???? I remember reading something about a different crankshaft flange length or something on the LQ4. I bet the 5.3 and T56 is a great combo with the 4.56 gears. I'm working on swapping out the 10 bolt-3.08 axle under my truck currently for a 14 bolt-4.88 w/ truetrac.
    Last edited by 90'rado; 07-21-2010 at 01:07 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Hillsboro, OR
    Posts
    42
    Thanks guys. I was misinformed by NAPA on the bore size of the truck master. They reported 7.75mm and the Fbody at .75 in. Turns out on further investigation the truck is actually 11/16. So, it has just a little more stroke than the Fbody and 1/16" smaller bore. It'll be interesting with the internal slave from the LS1's T56, but I'm feeling more confident about it. Thanks again for the feedback. I'm surprised I'm not seeing more LS1-T56-based trucks.

    How much futher back is the T56 shifter from stock in your trucks (my truck was 305/5spd)?
    -gl18rider

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    147
    gl18rider:
    I thought the truck master had plenty of volume as I had checked when I did my conversion, but couldn't remember the measuments off hand, and was afraid to say. Glad you got the correct numbers.
    I have a 5.3/T56 in mine and I used the transdapt plates to move the motor mounts so the sbc mounts would work. That moved the engine foward a little (I had a 4.3/5 speed originally). With that set up, the T56 shifter comes out right in front of the seat. If you put buckets in and build or buy a console, you can use that shifter location. If you keep the bench it will be pretty difficult. I bought and installed a shifter relocator kit from Keisler Automotive in Knoxville. I moves the shifter to the front hole in the T56 which allowed me to use the original hole in the floorboard of the truck. I had to add a hurst stick, knob, and boot, but I really like it. My truck looks virtually stock inside, which was what I was going for.
    I will try to get some pictures posted of my interior fwiw

    90'rado
    I am pretty sure, but check me on this. The LT T56 has a longer input shaft, and a different bell housing. The internals, short of the input shaft are the same otherwise.
    The lsx T56 will bolt up to an LQ4 from all I have understood.

    The 5.3/T56 is a blast to drive. I have a mild cam 222/224 and some good tuning, so for a really mild set up the truck makes good power and is fun to drive. The 4.56 gears are awesome. The 4.56 give really good grunt in the low gears to get a truck moving, then with the double overdrive you can cruise at 70mph at 2000rpm.

    interior 2.jpg

    interior 1.jpg

    If the pictures don't show, let me know and I can email them, if you'd like.
    '92 Fullsize, swb rc
    5.3L/T56 conversion, comp XR275 HR cam .566/.568 lift 222/224 duration 112 lsa, crane dual springs, trick flow push rods, K&N Filter, Nelson Performance tune, Keisler shifter relocation kit, Boyd Coddington Smoothie II 18x8 235/55 up front, 18x10 295/45 out back, 2/4 drop, eaton lsd w/4.56 gears

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Hillsboro, OR
    Posts
    42
    Thanks for the pics.
    That's nice! That looks very good. I wondered about the relocation kit. Is it pricey?
    With 4.56 you can run at 70 mph and 2k rpm? That's great. I was considering 3.73, now might consider 4.11.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    I just know you don't want to hear this but here is the clutch master cylinder of the month....http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...dy/hydraulics/

    Homepage http://www.tick-performance.com/tickshift/
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    85
    Joey rebuilt my T56 to Level 2 specs.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Medford, OR
    Posts
    142
    Couple of things to address here. First of all, only light duty 3/4T 2WD 6-lug rotors will retrofit on your stock spindles. 4WDs are completely different as are the HD 3/4T 6-lug rotors. In fact, most HD rotors are 8-lug, so you wont have to worry about that.
    Second. The shifter that comes with the Kiesler kit is reported to be junk. But I have seen pictures of aftermarket shifters adapted to this forward location by elongating the bolt holes a bit. That being said, most of us are still going to have to deal with the long shifter stick which negates the advantage of the aftermarket shifter. It occurred to me, (having a mv3500 in my 93 with a Hurst shifter), that the Hurst shifter for my 5-speed has a much taller tower to facilitate a shorter throw with the long stick. If the shift ball at the bottom-that goes into the trans-is the same size-or even close-the the T-56s ball size, a simple plate adapter could be fabbed up to fit the two together. Im almost positive the this would make for very short throws with a long stick. And no seat interference either.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Tennessee
    Posts
    85
    My 92 truck is a 2wheel drive so why would I buy a 4 wheel drive rotor? The Part number I posted for the 11" 6 lug rotor is almost identical to the 5 lug rotor on the truck now. I think a lot of the those HD rotors are 8 lug and a some are 13".
    The newer GTO come with a shifter arm from factory angled 4" to front for better location. I have a GMM shift arm and am going to mate this to T56 shifter to see how it works out.
    Last edited by Old Nash; 08-17-2010 at 07:53 PM.

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