I agree with Greg, they just don't look right. I'd get a factory mount and try it just to see. You can always take it back if it doesn't work. The tabs on yours do look like they're off. Mine look like Gregs also.
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I agree with Greg, they just don't look right. I'd get a factory mount and try it just to see. You can always take it back if it doesn't work. The tabs on yours do look like they're off. Mine look like Gregs also.
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97 GMC, 2002 LS6.
1991 GMC Syclone #1428
Your's look so much better than mine.Our mounting plates look very similar. I wonder why?
Those S&P plates are awful thick, about 3/8"? Our's are only 1/4". Your holes look further off than that, though.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Aug 26 2006, 07:23 AM) [snapback]62468[/snapback]</div>I think god hates me or something.Your's look so much better than mine.Our mounting plates look very similar. I wonder why?
Those S&P plates are awful thick, about 3/8"? Our's are only 1/4". Your holes look further off than that, though.
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I went and got new rubber mounts, got them installed and realized that the mounts were made wrong. If you lay it flat, you can see the tabs on one side of the hole are higher than the other side. Well they put them in the mount backwards, so that the higher tab is on the top, instead of the bottom.
'91 chev. Reg. Cab SB. Frame off, escalade clip, ART F&R susp., SSBC rear disks, SSBC Force 10 front kit, Auburn LSD, '00 LS1 and 4l60e. Almost all done!
http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g220/98hd/Chev/
Damn the luck!! That'll do it every time! Glad you figured it out.
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Aug 26 2006, 08:23 AM) [snapback]62468[/snapback]</div>LMAO!!Your's look so much better than mine.Our mounting plates look very similar. I wonder why?
[/b]Where'd we get those things? Wal-Mart?
97 GMC, 2002 LS6.
1991 GMC Syclone #1428
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(NITROUS @ Aug 26 2006, 04:30 PM) [snapback]62511[/snapback]</div>Actually I think you misunderstood, nothing got figured out yet.Damn the luck!! That'll do it every time! Glad you figured it out.
LMAO!!Where'd we get those things? Wal-Mart?
[/b]
The NEW mounts I bought this morning at the parts store were made wrong. I took apart my old mounts w/ the poly inserts, put in the rubber inserts that I had saved. Installed it and it looks better, but the bolt holes are still WAY off. I even enlarged the holes on the motor mounts themselves to get a little more movement.
Edit for link to new pics. 1st 2 pics are the new ones.
http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g220/98hd/Chev/
'91 chev. Reg. Cab SB. Frame off, escalade clip, ART F&R susp., SSBC rear disks, SSBC Force 10 front kit, Auburn LSD, '00 LS1 and 4l60e. Almost all done!
http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g220/98hd/Chev/
I keep feeling like I did something wrong, this was the easiest part of my swap! Keep looking at it you will find the solution.
2006 Superior Blue Trailblazer SS AWD, Stock as a rock
Sold: 2002 GMC Sportside Denali front end with a 2002 LS1, FLT level 5, Yank 2600, Trick Turbo, T76, Nelson intercooler, 60LB injectors, Warbro fuel pump, Eaton locker, Magnaflow, 3.42, Nelson Performance Tuning (speed density).
Sold: 1981 GMC LB RC 1500 2002 4.8L 4L60E 12 bolt 3.73 Richmond Lock Right AC PS Nelson Performance tuning
Okay, I'm going to let you in on a secret. Since you now have rubber mounts in there, this is how you get the bolts in there. 1.) get one of the bolts through the mount on one side only. You may have to tilt the engine or pry on the rubber mount, maybe even use a screwdriver or something through the mount hole to pull it into alignment. 2.) take your engine hoist and hook it to something on the mounted side of the engine a slowly lift. You will temporarily deform the rubber mount enough to get the bolt through the opposite side. You still may have to pry the unmounted side around a little to get the bolt through but it will eventually go.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Aug 26 2006, 07:26 PM) [snapback]62522[/snapback]</div>I had done something similar the first time I tossed it in there, didn't like it like that. I really want to make it work RIGHT. I'm thinking maybe some thinner adapter plates will help. I might try some thinner steel ones to see where it leaves me.Okay, I'm going to let you in on a secret. Since you now have rubber mounts in there, this is how you get the bolts in there. 1.) get one of the bolts through the mount on one side only. You may have to tilt the engine or pry on the rubber mount, maybe even use a screwdriver or something through the mount hole to pull it into alignment. 2.) take your engine hoist and hook it to something on the mounted side of the engine a slowly lift. You will temporarily deform the rubber mount enough to get the bolt through the opposite side. You still may have to pry the unmounted side around a little to get the bolt through but it will eventually go.
[/b]
'91 chev. Reg. Cab SB. Frame off, escalade clip, ART F&R susp., SSBC rear disks, SSBC Force 10 front kit, Auburn LSD, '00 LS1 and 4l60e. Almost all done!
http://s57.photobucket.com/albums/g220/98hd/Chev/
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Aug 26 2006, 08:26 PM) [snapback]62522[/snapback]</div>Okay, I'm going to let you in on a secret. Since you now have rubber mounts in there, this is how you get the bolts in there. 1.) get one of the bolts through the mount on one side only. You may have to tilt the engine or pry on the rubber mount, maybe even use a screwdriver or something through the mount hole to pull it into alignment. 2.) take your engine hoist and hook it to something on the mounted side of the engine a slowly lift. You will temporarily deform the rubber mount enough to get the bolt through the opposite side. You still may have to pry the unmounted side around a little to get the bolt through but it will eventually go.
[/b]SECRET?!?! HA HA! NO SECRET!
That's EXACTLY what I had to do to get my 5.3 mounted! Looking at the pics you have, the driver's side seems like the best candidate for the first bolt. Like Red said, get a long screwdriver, and insert to guide the hole to where you need it. After you accomplish the task of getting the first bolt in, hoist the engine upward on the SAME side, EVER SO SLIGHTLY, until you get the passenger side aligned. Lifting on the driver's side (after bolted) should drop the passenger side to assist with alignment. DON'T WORRY about deforming the inserts, they're made to give. It took me less than 5 minutes to get this first time I dropped the motor in, and the second time after I had to install my trans lines. The second time I did this, I had no hoist. I used a 2x6 piece of scrap wood to pry the motor upward.![]()
Git 'R Dun!![]()
5.3L '86 Silverado (E/T: 14.37s @ 94mph) - First Time Out!Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph
98hd, I thought you meant the poly mounts were wrong. I agree with the other guys, the motor should still go in with some slight tilting. Keep the adapters you have because you'll have more clearance for headers if you decide to put them on. This is the reason I got an old block and used it to fit the motor mounts before I put the complete motor in. Saved me alot of time and headache.
97 GMC, 2002 LS6.
1991 GMC Syclone #1428