Gone, but not forgotten!
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Man, $300 is a nice price for a new Yank convertor! I'd jump all over that one, too.![]()
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
OK, posted this response on another site. It kind of gives an idea of why I'mleaning toward Fuddle. I'f I'm way off on something or you differ in opinion, let me know:
Fuddle has an excellent reputation. Reason I was leaning toward them was partly a very good price, but they're converter is also 9.64" as opposed to Yanks 10.94". Smaller converter = less weight = less effort to turn = better accelaration, even if it's slight.
I can also pick my stall for the one price ($400), which is the way I think it should be. I don't think a 3000 stall should cost $100 more that a 2600 stall.
Again, not being argumentative, just covering my bases.
I think you'll be fine either way.
Gone, but not forgotten!
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(SCIV @ Jun 23 2006, 04:36 PM) [snapback]56124[/snapback]</div>I think I will too. I think now, my main question has to do with the TC size. I always thought the smaller the better.I think you'll be fine either way.
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Moze @ Jun 23 2006, 04:39 PM) [snapback]56125[/snapback]</div>I think smaller is looser. It also has to do with the pitch of the blades, number of blades, and the distance between the two fans. Also smaller has a smaller lock up clutch, but there could be more than one set in a converter. Let me know if my thinking is wrong.I think I will too. I think now, my main question has to do with the TC size. I always thought the smaller the better.
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2006 Superior Blue Trailblazer SS AWD, Stock as a rock
Sold: 2002 GMC Sportside Denali front end with a 2002 LS1, FLT level 5, Yank 2600, Trick Turbo, T76, Nelson intercooler, 60LB injectors, Warbro fuel pump, Eaton locker, Magnaflow, 3.42, Nelson Performance Tuning (speed density).
Sold: 1981 GMC LB RC 1500 2002 4.8L 4L60E 12 bolt 3.73 Richmond Lock Right AC PS Nelson Performance tuning
that converter you will be buying is most likely built with alot of stock parts, as to the yank or vigilante, they will be built with all billet parts and lightweight. If your looking for a converter to help your truck idle with a large cam and thats it then a cheap one will do the job but if you are looking to go fast, then hold off and save a lil more money, remember you get wat you pay for. You may call someone who knows more but dont quote me to this but the torque ration on a cheap converter is about 1.1 to 1 where as a vigilante is 3.0 to 1.
I have ran cheap converters because of the budget at the time and they dont make near the power!
hope this helped
Jarrod
2000 SILVERADO RCSB STOCK LS1, CAM, BOLT ONS
7.93@85.21
12.61@105
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...silverado.html
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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(carfreak07 @ Jun 24 2006, 02:22 PM) [snapback]56166[/snapback]</div>I don't think Fuddle uses stock parts:that converter you will be buying is most likely built with alot of stock parts, as to the yank or vigilante, they will be built with all billet parts and lightweight. If your looking for a converter to help your truck idle with a large cam and thats it then a cheap one will do the job but if you are looking to go fast, then hold off and save a lil more money, remember you get wat you pay for. You may call someone who knows more but dont quote me to this but the torque ration on a cheap converter is about 1.1 to 1 where as a vigilante is 3.0 to 1.
I have ran cheap converters because of the budget at the time and they dont make near the power!
hope this helped
Jarrod
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The Hub-
Our hub is machined from medium carbon (AISI 1035) steel. The hub is fully hardened and tempered (heat treated) and uses the maximum possible thickness for added strength.
The Ballooning Plates-
Using ballooning plates that measure nearly ½”, you can rest assured that this converter will hold to big power.
Brazed Fins-
Rather than relying on the much cheaper alternative of simply brazing in a furnace, we spend the time to hand braze every fin inside the converter. This ensures that you are getting a much stronger converter.
Torrington Bearings-
With our dedication to bring you the best possible product, we only use Genuine Torrington Bearings in our Performance Series.
The Stator-
Our stators are heavily modified to bring you both superior street feel and superior strength.
-To improve throttle response and feel, we modify the accordion springs on our stator assemblies. The resulting improvement in roller reaction not only helps street feel, but throttle reaction at the track as well.
-Using a Fuddle exclusive design on the stator race, we are able to provide .200 more engagement to considerably add to the strength of the converter.
The Clutch-
Fuddle Racing has always been dedicated to bringing you the best possible clutch. The clutch in the Performance Series is built of the strongest material available. You simply can’t beat Carbon Metallic clutch linings. They are the best and are in every Performance Series converter.
As for the "get what you pay for" theory - I totally agree with you. Yank and Fuddles are about the same price. I think hands-down PI makes the best one I've seen. But I can't swing the price for a new one. Maybe I'll luck out and find a used one. What honestly bothers me about Yank is I think they know most truck guys will want a 3000 stall. They're conveniently $100 more than the 2600 stall. The majority of other manufacturers offer the stall speed you want for one price. Can anyone justify why the 3000 stall would cost more than a 2600 stall? I doubt it...Also, ask around about customer service after the sale with Yank. I know a few people are having problems with Fuddle with how quick they get their converter, but I'm more concerned about warranty, track record (literally and metaphorically), and service after the sale. I'm not saying Yank is a bad product. Just saying what my research has turned up...
Sounds like a nice convertor. I'd consider one of those myself. It's a lot better buildup than the one I got from PATC, theirs was stock appearing on the outside, so no balloon plate on the engine side of the convertor.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat @ Jun 28 2006, 06:19 PM) [snapback]56565[/snapback]</div>Yeah - and I'll add to this little thread that between "Other Brand" and Fuddle, only Fuddle has asked me for a copy of a Dyno run so he can make sure I get a converter optimized for my truck. As he emailed me today:Sounds like a nice convertor. I'd consider one of those myself. It's a lot better buildup than the one I got from PATC, theirs was stock appearing on the outside, so no balloon plate on the engine side of the convertor.
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"It is always best to go off of a dyno graph. A couple hundred
rpm above where the torque curve comes in is ideal for performance. Too high
and you are going over usable torque, too low and you are waiting for torque
to come in after the flash and not launching hard enough. Let me know when
you get the dyno sheet and I'll be happy to look it over and go from there."
"Other Brand" simply said get a 3000. No request for a Dyno sheet. Are they dead on suggesting a 3000? Maybe, but I'm a little more put at ease that Fuddle is inquiring a little more instead of just firing off a recommendation.