LOL I've seen someone do that with an arc welder.
LOL I've seen someone do that with an arc welder.
thats what I do, too, but I put a nut there to get ahold of after welding rather than just a nub.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
I wasted 2 days and lots of money on tools top get one bolt out. That mother bucker is still in the head on that engine. I replaced that engine with an LQ9 because of that bolt.
99RCSB Broke because I wasted thousands and thousands of dollars on my truck.
Yeah Brian--if you have a set of fresh heads with new valvetrain components, then swap heads. When doing so, spend the extra $20 or so to get ARP head studs. And just go with GM head gaskets. I really wouldn't waste the time to try and extract those broken bolts if you have the other heads ready and waiting.
BUT if you keep them on there, you will need to remove the front pass wheel and inner fender liner to get to the rear pass header bolt. That is the best way to get at it...
2000 ECSB 6.0L
TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's
I was a machinist for the air force for 13 years and probably removed 50 broken fasteners a week.
By far the easiest way is to use a left handed drill bit if you can get to it. The cutting pressure will loosen the fastener 95% of the time and back it out with the drill bit so make sure you are drilling perfectly true to the centerline of the bolt or it will break the drill bit when it comes out.
The other 5% of the time you will need to completely drill out the center of the fastener (leaving the threads only) and pick the remnants of the broken fastener out of the hole. With practice this can be done without messing up the threads in the parent material.
If you mess up the threads in the parent material most times it can be fixed with a Heli-Coil. Some times the hole has to be welded up and re-drilled / tapped when a bolt is sealed to the threads like into a water jacket.
I say pull the wheel & inner fender and try to drill out the broken bolt. This will get you on the road in a couple hours at the most. You can then acquire all the parts and pieces you need for the head & cam swap and do it when you have more time.
It's gonna be tough to get a left handed drill bit in there unless you have access to a small right angle drill.
Probably wont be much help but saw it on television last night and thought about getting a set.
EDIT: Found out Ace Hardware carries them if you have one near. About 20 bucks.
Last edited by Wildman; 01-07-2009 at 10:12 AM.
2007 Chevy Silverado Classic 4.3L V6
Magnaflow Muffler, CFM Technologies CNC Machined High Flow Vortec Throttle Blades, STS Rear Turbo, Intercooler, Accell Distributor and Coil, 8mm wire, Autolite Platinum plugs, Runs out of fuel at 4000RPM. Marine intake with larger injectors soon. Hoping to squeeze 10psi.
Imma try the welder method first since I do have a small MIG welder at the house. IF that fails then I will see where it goes from there.