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Thread: Need some help on my old '85 Ford pick-up...

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Ona, W.Va.
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat View Post
    Check the starter first then next time it dead locks up on you, pull the plugs out and see if you get coolant or gas out of the spark plug hole when you crank it. I'm sure you're hydraulic locking which can lead to bent connecting rods if you have too strong of a starter. It can be the carburator draining all the fuel into the engine once its shut off or its water seeping into the cylinder through a head gasket or crank in a cylinder wall. Are you losing water?
    If I'm remembering correctly, the starter is brand-new. There was a fluke with the last one and ended up bending the starter shaft.

    The coolant level was low. The more I think about it, a head gasket sounds plausible.

    I'll get a chance Thursday to crank it with the spark plugs out... I'll update with any crazy details.
    Eric "The" Pyles

    14.06 @ 96mph / 9.02 @ 79mph
    302 RWHP/298 RWTQ


  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat View Post
    ...I'm sure you're hydraulic locking which can lead to bent connecting rods if you have too strong of a starter. It can be the carburator draining all the fuel into the engine once its shut off or its water seeping into the cylinder through a head gasket or crank in a cylinder wall. Are you losing water?
    +1. I would drain the oil. That will tell the story. Greg is right about checking everything--but unscrewing one bolt from the oil pan and draining the oil seems easier to me. If there is low coolant and a murky, milky oil--head gasket is shot. That way, once you remove the head, you can pour oil over the motor and try to get it to spin free. But still--that 300 I6 was a halfway decent motor. I would try to salvage it.

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by txarkitekt View Post
    +1. I would drain the oil. That will tell the story. Greg is right about checking everything--but unscrewing one bolt from the oil pan and draining the oil seems easier to me. If there is low coolant and a murky, milky oil--head gasket is shot. That way, once you remove the head, you can pour oil over the motor and try to get it to spin free. But still--that 300 I6 was a halfway decent motor. I would try to salvage it.
    The motor itself is brand-new. We're talking less than 10,000 miles. It's a rebuilt unit out of a saw mill. We bought the short block because our original motor had a cracked piston.

    Is has been sitting for a few years with what was thought to be an ignition problem. It needs new oil anyways I'm sure.
    Eric "The" Pyles

    14.06 @ 96mph / 9.02 @ 79mph
    302 RWHP/298 RWTQ


  4. #14
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    Nov 2003
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    Denton Texas
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    I'd be worried about a cracked block, knowing its history now. Engines overheat, hand pours in straight water, it freezes, crack in cylinder wall. With any luck its just a head gasket.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat View Post
    I'd be worried about a cracked block, knowing its history now. Engines overheat, hand pours in straight water, it freezes, crack in cylinder wall. With any luck its just a head gasket.
    Back to the cabr dumping gas... It's a brand new holley unit. Was there an adjustment out of the box that I could have forgotten to perform? What would cause it to just dump the fuel?

    Carb'd engines = not my forte.
    Eric "The" Pyles

    14.06 @ 96mph / 9.02 @ 79mph
    302 RWHP/298 RWTQ


  6. #16
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    Nov 2003
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    Denton Texas
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    bad casting is the only reason I could think of.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  7. #17
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    Aug 2008
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    North Texas
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    A blown head gasket doesn't always show up in the oil....but if it was the cause of the cranking problem, you'd see it with the plugs out.

  8. #18
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    Dec 2005
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    174
    Are the headers heating the starter?
    2000 Sierra 2500 HD. 408 (11-2007) Whipplecharged, Big (18x24x4) FMIC.

  9. #19
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    Feb 2008
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    Ona, W.Va.
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeGyver View Post
    Are the headers heating the starter?
    The headers do run right past the starter. Do you think it's as simple a fix as wrapping the headers?

    I didn't know heat effected a starter that much.
    Eric "The" Pyles

    14.06 @ 96mph / 9.02 @ 79mph
    302 RWHP/298 RWTQ


  10. #20
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    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fort Worth
    Posts
    9,578
    Your starter can handle decent amount of heat--and so can the wires. Msot starters have some kind of heat wrap around the + wire, but not so much the ground. I mean--on our trucks, the headers are above the starter and starters are mounted to the block...they can handle some serious heat...

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

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