Doh! so many numbers in my head today..your absolutly right, its a toss up between a 408, and a 370..and i guess the 370 was on my mind at that momentOriginally Posted by Quik
Doh! so many numbers in my head today..your absolutly right, its a toss up between a 408, and a 370..and i guess the 370 was on my mind at that moment
2004 Silverado , 5.3, 22" akuzas, SS bumper, cowl hood, lots of winter power upgrades coming.
1990 Sierra ST 540, prostreet **SOLD**
Not to mention the fact that the 370 will live longer and rev higher than a 408.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
to be honest, thats pretty much just the advice ive needed all day...its not often the cheaper choice is the better choice..i know my wife would appreciate this decision..if i was to ever tell her
Thanks guys
2004 Silverado , 5.3, 22" akuzas, SS bumper, cowl hood, lots of winter power upgrades coming.
1990 Sierra ST 540, prostreet **SOLD**
Hell, just do a 347. You can still make "Hella" power with one. I have seen people make 800 +rwhp with boost.
That way, you can start with a cheap 5.3 iron block.
'92 GMC reg. cab, step side. 7.32@ 92.3. SOLD
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/d...d700c6401f.htm
New project: '00 S-10 ext. cab, ZQ8, 370, T-56, daily driver.
kind of got my heart set on the 6.0L setup..especially now that i just picked up a low mileage lq4 last week.
A rod/piston upgrade for a 370 is definitly doable.
2004 Silverado , 5.3, 22" akuzas, SS bumper, cowl hood, lots of winter power upgrades coming.
1990 Sierra ST 540, prostreet **SOLD**
Yeah, but a 408 chews the piston skirts up from the first time you crank the engine. The cast iron block has cylinders too short for a dependable long life with a longer than stock stroke. If you precision balance both engines the 370 will run sustained high RPMs much longer than the 408 ever will.
Last edited by RedHeartbeat; 11-26-2007 at 11:24 PM.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
When the cylinders are as short as they are in the 6.0L the pistons tend to rock in the cylinder at the bottom of the stroke and the bottom edge of the cylinder cuts the skirt. I have some wonderful pictures of the damage a 4" stroker does to a 408" engine. Yeah, I know a 4" stroke works on some engines but it doesnt work on all engines. A 4" stroke is great in an aluminum block GenIII but the cylinders are longer and the pistons stay stable at the bottom of the stroke.
See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709
single digit street truck
for build info
http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...cs-garage.html
The best advice I have ever heard:... Only take B( . Y . )ST advice from someone that is CURRENTLY running a turbo setup close to, or bigger than what you want......
OK, so now ive got another question.
i found a great deal on a set of stock size ls1 rods and pistons and crank. can i put those in my 4.8/ 5.3 L block?? and just bore the block 30 over???
I'm right now working on a 5.3 to 5.7, and found good price in a mahle kit
eBay Motors: H-BEAM RODS MAHLE PISTONS SBC SB CHEVY 6.1 LS1 LS6 RP$ (item 260126062683 end time Dec-02-07 21:56:50 PST)
The Pistons R ceramic coated and with graftal on the skirts, the rods R preatty nice, eagle I think.
I ordered the lowest CR cause I'm on Turbo, so CR would be around 8.8-9.0
Last edited by 2boosted; 11-28-2007 at 08:52 AM.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
