2.08 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves...?

[DBYRD]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hit Man X &#064; Apr 1 2007, 12&#58;12 AM) [snapback]87996[/snapback]</div>

Or, don&#39;t listen to anyone, do what you want, spend cash, and get the smack down put upon you.
[/b]

i think he was playing but still LMAO&#33;

[RedHeartbeat]

Why go through the expense of having the 4.8 bored to 5.7 (yes, you can do it) and having to buy a 5.3/5.7/6.0 crank and 5.7 pistons when for about the same amount of money you could have a 6.0L? Get the 6.0L and then you can put whatever heads on there you want.

[Jaw_Dropper]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Hit Man X &#064; Apr 1 2007, 01&#58;12 AM) [snapback]87996[/snapback]</div>

LOL, why the hell would you want a 2.08" valve on a 4.8? Are you trying to kill what limited bottom end you have?

Anyway, as Kevin said you&#39;ll see ZERO gains and hurt yourself with this. You can make more than enough power to destroy your rear axle, ujoints, and trans with a 1.89 intake valve on the 4.8/5.3 head. A 6.0 I&#39;d go no larger than a 2.02" as it&#39;s a 4" bore. To run something 2.08" and greater you need a huge bore (4.06+) to unshroud the valve and keep port velocity up.

Or, don&#39;t listen to anyone, do what you want, spend cash, and get the smack down put upon you.
[/b]

Ok.....First off ..........If i didnt want to listen to anyone i wouldnt have posted my questions in the first place but thanks for taking the time and letting me know...........this is the internet you can get alot of misguided answers....and i just wanted someone to clarify it better for me.. so let me remorse in sorrow and say i am SORRY please chew my ass a little more when you get another second of spare time. My truck is a daily driver and i&#39;m sorry i&#39;m not ASE Certified... that i know everything about my truck thats why i was hoping some of you would be more then willing to spare someone like myself with your knowledge not bash me down like a total focking idiot...at least i&#39;m willing to take the time in learn something i dont know then not try to learn nothing at all.......anyway thanks again for stating some info that i didnt know

[Jaw_Dropper]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Apr 1 2007, 10&#58;03 AM) [snapback]88006[/snapback]</div>

Why go through the expense of having the 4.8 bored to 5.7 (yes, you can do it) and having to buy a 5.3/5.7/6.0 crank and 5.7 pistons when for about the same amount of money you could have a 6.0L? Get the 6.0L and then you can put whatever heads on there you want.
[/b]

I already have a 5.3L crank that i could use in fact i have pretty much the whole longblock...... just not the 5.7L pistons

I have been wanting to buy the 6.0L cast iron shortblock kit so i can do exactly that.....but i want to start it from scratch...I cant even seem to find a 6.0L bare block with new cam bearings for under &#036;500 anywhere

[Hit Man X]

Search yields lots of quality info. Don&#39;t mean to come off as a prick, but you can&#39;t apply the same stuff to a smaller truck motor as you can a larger &#39;Vette engine.

I don&#39;t see a reason to spend &#036;500 for a bare 6.0 block when you&#39;d have to machine the thing. I&#39;d spend no more than &#036;150-200 for bare, core, seasoned block. CERTAINLY one as common as the LQ4, it&#39;s not like a three year production run only cast. Cheapest machine work would still be &#036;500-800. Hell, a new block is still under &#036;1000 last I checked.

Heck, I&#39;ve seen 6.0 shortblocks go for &#036;500 tops, reringed/bearing&#39;d long blocks for &#036;1500.