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Thread: My swap.

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    Orielly's carries them, also. I normally order mine through Scoggins/Dickey if I have plenty of lead time, takes one or two days to get to me when they have everything in stock.

    Drain all the fluids just to save cleaning up a mess later.

    Install the intake after the engine is in the truck. Keep the top of the engine covered to keep debris out.

    The oil pan has to be positioned correctly. The rear of the pan has to be flush with the back of the block. I use an old bell housing to align them, bolt the bell housing on then tighten the bolts on the pan. Pan bolts are 18 or 22 foot lbs depending which manual you read. I always go 22.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Austin Tx.
    Posts
    13,138
    Should I tighten them from inside to out? Or which way?
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    In any order, I believe. I can look tonight for sure. The long bolts in the flywheel end of the pan are torqued to like 108 in/lbs. Long skinny bolts can't take too much force.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Austin Tx.
    Posts
    13,138
    TTT...

    looking at getting a B&M super cooler soon before the 5.3 swap. pretty sure this is the right one. http://www.autoanything.com/coolers/65A3046A0A0.aspx

    I did some research on here and was still confused as to how/where you actually tap into the transmission lines to make this thing cool. Where abouts can I get the fittings/lines for this cooler? NAPA? Autozone?

    How hard is this thing to get installed? Seeing as how my truck is as low as dirt, I need to know if it will be easier to access all the lines to tap into from the bottom or top.

    thanks,
    david
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    College Station, TX
    Posts
    2,193
    I have a transstar tranny cooler 25000 gvw it works so nice...You can tell a difference when it shifts......also the temp always stays low since I have the escalade cluster and I can see the temp...

    My cooler came with the necessary lines....I dont know about the B&M ones though...I would ask first..

    It only took like 30 minutes to install...My dads mechanic did it for like 15$ bucks haha
    2012 F-250 XLT/FX4 RCLB 6.7 Powerstroke
    H&S XRT Pro Race(550hp/1100tq)/ 4" flopro exhaust/H&S EGT kit/SPE Full diff unlock/S&B CAI/H&S motorsports upcharge pipe kit/ DPF,CAT,EGR,UREA Deleted/Icon 3.5" Lift-Vs 2.0 shocks/PMF DSS w' Bilstein 5100s/Icon Adj Track Bar-upgraded steel bearing/RIGID LEDs/Kenwood DNX570HD w/idatalink maestro/Hertz5x7s/Memphis 12" slim/500.1 JL slash amp/Recon f250 led emblems

  6. #66
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Austin Tx.
    Posts
    13,138
    After installing the motor, I am definately going to flush the engine with oil. What would be the best way to go about this? Should I use regular 10w30 first and then after flushing it just put in synthetic?
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    College Station, TX
    Posts
    2,193
    Sounds good to me....I know my dad did something like that when he put the new 4 banger in his WWII Jeep...

    Or did he just use synthetic twice?
    2012 F-250 XLT/FX4 RCLB 6.7 Powerstroke
    H&S XRT Pro Race(550hp/1100tq)/ 4" flopro exhaust/H&S EGT kit/SPE Full diff unlock/S&B CAI/H&S motorsports upcharge pipe kit/ DPF,CAT,EGR,UREA Deleted/Icon 3.5" Lift-Vs 2.0 shocks/PMF DSS w' Bilstein 5100s/Icon Adj Track Bar-upgraded steel bearing/RIGID LEDs/Kenwood DNX570HD w/idatalink maestro/Hertz5x7s/Memphis 12" slim/500.1 JL slash amp/Recon f250 led emblems

  8. #68
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Austin Tx.
    Posts
    13,138
    *edit* already asked this question nvm.
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Austin Tx.
    Posts
    13,138
    TTT for a few more questions...

    I have the motor mounts to make the 5.3 work, do I need new hardware for that or can I use my old bolts and stuff?
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    DFW, TX - Autobahn Volkswagen Tech
    Posts
    116
    You can use the old bolts.
    01 Silverado - 2004 5.3L Conversion from 4.3L V6 - Wheatley Tune - One Wheel Dance Off Champion
    http://shaggypokertables.com/images/sigblack.jpg

    NEED VW WORK OR PARTS? PM ME!

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