4L60E Buildup

[CompToyZ]

Keeping cost in mind what are the best upgrades one can do to the 4L60E. I ordered a Transgo shift kit, oversized servos and what I thought were better valves (boost and TV boost) which say on the package for 700R4 and 4L60 so I have my doubts tyhey will even work. I purchased the valves after a friend told me the pumps were the same and it would be the single biggest improvement I can make, so I'll need to do some more research before I touch the pump.

Is there anything I missed? I'm hoping to do all that I can with the tranny in the Tahoe. The tahoe should be pushing just over 600 horse when I'm done.

[91_bowtie]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(CompToyZ &#064; Dec 30 2006, 09&#58;31 PM) [snapback]77849[/snapback]</div>

Keeping cost in mind what are the best upgrades one can do to the 4L60E. I ordered a Transgo shift kit, oversized servos and what I thought were better valves (boost and TV boost) ....... The tahoe should be pushing just over 600 horse when I&#39;m done.
[/b]

I give it 3 months absolute max.

There&#39;s no way that tranny will hold 600hp in a truck that heavy. Don&#39;t waste your time and money. Just start saving up for a 80e.

[DBYRD]

talk to vince or sprayed99(danny) they are the experts. i think a well built 60e could handle it alright from what ive read and what many people are running with the 60e. Fully built is a sure bet tho.

[RedHeartbeat]

Look up HitManX. He&#39;s here and over on PT.net and has some great information listed on how to build a bulletproof 4L60E. The most common factor on a built tranny is a vacuum modulated valve body controller. I also hear that TRTTurbo is now stocking a built HP 4L60E tranny with a 2 year warranty on the hydraulics. Hit him up. I think its like &#036;1300 and includes the vacuum setup.

[CompToyZ]

Thanks you guys

[sprayed99]

Need alittle help on your build give us a call 972-485-0800 Jerrys trans my fathers shop very very very good at the 60e his name is jerry tell him danny told you to call

[CompToyZ]

OK I don&#39;t recall ever getting help like this before, I am completly impressed to say the least.

[daredevil350]

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(CompToyZ &#064; Dec 30 2006, 09&#58;31 PM) [snapback]77849[/snapback]</div>

Keeping cost in mind what are the best upgrades one can do to the 4L60E. I ordered a Transgo shift kit, oversized servos and what I thought were better valves (boost and TV boost) which say on the package for 700R4 and 4L60 so I have my doubts tyhey will even work. I purchased the valves after a friend told me the pumps were the same and it would be the single biggest improvement I can make, so I&#39;ll need to do some more research before I touch the pump.

Is there anything I missed? I&#39;m hoping to do all that I can with the tranny in the Tahoe. The tahoe should be pushing just over 600 horse when I&#39;m done.
[/b]

The 4L60E is an electric redesign of the 700R4 (even the pan gasket is the same) you would be surprised how many parts are interchangeable

[shatlest]

Here&#39;s some info I got from HitmanX and others:


TransGo HD2 shift kit
4L60E 1-2 aluminum accumulator piston (small pin)
4L60E forward clutch aluminum accumulator piston
Corvette servo 4L60E W/ longer pin
Superior 4th gear billet super servo
Hughes Transmission deep tranny pan
TransGo separator plate


put the stock springs back in and turn the piston around the way it was
A big issue is the accumulator valve for the 1-2, you need to install the softest spring
Stock springs will soften it up a good deal, I DO NOT recomend drilling the 1-2 feedhole out at all. 2-3 go .110 and the 3-4 .125


Remember an aftermarket built unit will shift quicker and firmer than a stock one will. Be wise when choosing feed holes for your seperator plate, start small and work your way up dependant on servos chosen as well as stall size.

THESE ARE JUST A FEW BASICS:
1 - A quality paper and rubber kit, be sure to use new bushings as well as bearings too
2 - Take up the end play, and verify the clutch pack clearances. End play and slop helps kill transmissions almost as quick as heat does. This is important in a unit such as the 60E.
3 - Throw away the "load release" springs out of the 3-4 clutch pack.
4 - Use high quality frictions and steels. Alto Red Eagles, Borg Warner Tans, Etc.
5 - Toss check ball from: input shaft for a firmer converter lockup
6 - Block the 4th accumulator
7 - Ditch the servo check ball and capsule from case, install a cup plug in place.
8 - Check 2-4 band clearance
9 - BIG transmission fluid cooler, stacked plate is superior to tube and fin
10 - TransGo Seperator Plate, much improved design over stock.
11 - Inline filter. Just use a standard oil filter (3/4"-16 thread sticks in my mind) and a filter relocation bracket from your online shop place. This increases filter capacity but a HUGE amount. Stock is around 100 micron, most for motor oil get down to 20 micron.
12 - Get a pan with a drain plug and drain that old crap every 10K miles. ATF is cheap as can be.

Sonnax Pinless Aluminum Forward Accumulator - Stock can be plastic, this is pinless, if not go with the GM one.
Sonnax Servo Release Check Valve - Limits 3-2 downshift tieup/burning, drill valve&#39;s hole to 0.125" and seperator plate to 0.093-.110 on stock stall.
Sonnax Fwd/Rev Abuse Bore Plug - Prevents burning of the clutch packs and band, just a simple part.
Sonnax Accumulator Valve Train Assy (heavy vehicle, like trucks) - This creates a far, far better pressure curve on the 1-2 shift to eliminate the typical banging you get with a stock stall and heavy servo.

The pinless accumulators in the 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators are apparently a PITA to fit with the Sonnax pinless pistons. You can make them work but it&#39;s better to just stick with the aluminum GM ones.



Clutches and Band:

2-4 Band - Alto RedEagle or BW band. Stock GM would work on a standard rebuild but the anchor is small. There is NO reason to go with a wider band, stock is just over 2.2" which is wider than every other trans around... that&#39;s stock. Besides who has seen a burned up 2-4 band yet? 2.5" is simply not needed ergo a special input drum isn&#39;t either. You have to ask for the standard width Alto one.

Aftermarkets offer greater holding capacity, less likely to break off band anchor than OE, anchor on the Altos are 60% greater. I&#39;d run a Red Alto one...Kevlar likes to burn and you&#39;re not going to give up much of anything on the shifts with the Alto band.

3-4 Clutch Pack - This is highly debated. 6 Blue Plates, 8 BW Tans, 13 in the Z Pac, 9 Alto, custom setups, etc. Whatever you choose, I&#39;d try to stick with the OE thickness steels to resist heat. That usually limits you to 7-8 clutches, so pick your poison there.

Low/Reverse and Forward - You don&#39;t need anything exotic here as these are only applied from very slow speeds or in a stopped position. Again, pick what you like. BW is good as is Alto.



HARD PARTS:

29 Element Foreward Input Sprag - far better in HO applications

13 Vane Pump Conversion Kit - extra fluid flow at higher RPMs, most NBS already have this so verify before purchasing.

Heavy Duty 5 Pinion Front Planetary - 5 pinions vs 4, stronger under load, hardened gears, made of powered metal
Heavy Duty 5 Pinion Rear Planetary - 5 pinions vs 4, stronger under load, hardened gears, made of powered metal

These are known to starve for oil at high RPM (over ~6200rpm) and can break like some cheap foreign made four pinion units. Not worth the cost in my opinion as oiling is better on the fours as well as more metal between each gear.

Heavy Duty Reaction Carrier Shaft - eliminates need for thrust washers, works in conjunction with the Sun Gear Shell
Heavy Duty Reaction Sun Gear Shell - limits cracking and splitting on bearing area

Input Drum Reinforcement Kit - Comes with a larger clutch piston as well as a collar to prevent the drum from tearing from the input shaft. A drum balanced to 9500rpm isn&#39;t going to help much as we&#39;ll never see those RPMs and who has broken a stock input shaft?

Heavy Duty Output Shaft - limits broken shafts on high RPM kickdowns. This is only if you plan to kick down back to 1st at very high RPM, get a larger stall with more shift extension to keep you at bay. There are hardened and forged ones out I&#39;ve seen. I&#39;d consider a hardened unit, forged is wasting cash to me.

TransGo shift kit - .500 boost valve, HO Pump Spring, 1-2 accum spring, fixes problems like...3-4 burnup, 2-3 overlap, delay bangs, poor 3-2 kickdown, etc. PSK or HD2 kits. No washers in the 1-2, control your shift firmness with the feedhole size.

TransGo Vac Modulator - This eliminates the EPC solenoid in the 60E so only engine vac determines shift firmness. This is a good thing provided your cam isn&#39;t HUGE and you have a good vac source. This also increases total line pressure some too.

Hardened Pump Rings - Stockers like to break at times

Corvette Servo - Good upgrade even without valve body stuff. Go to at least this sized servo upon a rebuild.

Superior Intermediate Super Servo - greater band holding power, much better 2-3 shifts, excellent 1-2 shifts, 35% more apply than &#39;Vette servo. I&#39;d consider this with a big stall. 13" and 2600rpm is not.
Superior 4th Gear Super Servo - Around 50% more apply than the standard OD servo. This is a good item... but no WOT 3-4 shifts, puts the unit at a mechanical disadvantage.

[Weird_guy]

How is the remote trans filter hooked up? Is it just hooked up to the trans cooler lines? And is the internal filter removed?