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Thread: My 5.3L into a Jeep Wrangler

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    997
    If memory serves, that would be my fuel pump... either the C3 or C4 connector views. Will have to check when I get home. At parents' house working on computer.
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Posts
    117
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(1BADC10 &#064; Sep 24 2006, 01&#58;23 PM) [snapback]66310[/snapback]</div>
    If memory serves, that would be my fuel pump... either the C3 or C4 connector views. Will have to check when I get home. At parents&#39; house working on computer.
    [/b]
    So the other three were labeled correctly?(ignition, battery 12v, and ground). Did you have to give anything else power?

    Thanks so much&#33;&#33; Hope your computer fixing at the &#39;rents went well. And congrats on the addition to your family. My wife and i just had our first 3 1/2 month ago, a little girl, Izzi.
    2000 PSD F250 Super Duty Ext cab long bed 4x4 - a few mods...450+ HP 500+ lbs of torque&#33;&#33; (Daily Driver)
    1993 YJ "Buggy"
    1991 3/4 ton Suburban 6.2L turbodiesel

  3. #13
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 &#064; Sep 22 2006, 09&#58;33 AM) [snapback]66081[/snapback]</div>
    Its final resting place


    the MESS


    More

    [/b]
    looking at this picture of the motor placement i hope that you move it back further. there is plenty of room for the factory belt driven fan and a thick aluminum radiator. dont forget that a wrangler engine sits off set to the passenger side 1.5" . the tunnel in the floor is that way also. hear is a pic of the last one i did.
    6.0 lq4, 4l65e H2 trans, atlas II transfer case. and the rear driveshaft was still 3" longer than stock.
    38" swampers, 350 tbi, 14 bolt rear, 10 bolt front

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Posts
    117
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(hummertech &#064; Sep 24 2006, 07&#58;45 PM) [snapback]66379[/snapback]</div>
    looking at this picture of the motor placement i hope that you move it back further. there is plenty of room for the factory belt driven fan and a thick aluminum radiator. dont forget that a wrangler engine sits off set to the passenger side 1.5" . the tunnel in the floor is that way also. hear is a pic of the last one i did.
    6.0 lq4, 4l65e H2 trans, atlas II transfer case. and the rear driveshaft was still 3" longer than stock.

    [/b]
    Thats part of my problem, i&#39;m currently running an NP208 (cause i can&#39;t afford the adapters to the Dana20) so my rear shaft is the same length currently, i&#39;ll have enough room for a 3 row radiator in the stock location (recessed in the grill) and still run the factory fan. :-) Nice looking swap.

    So i&#39;m also gonna have to figure out something with a VSS huh?
    2000 PSD F250 Super Duty Ext cab long bed 4x4 - a few mods...450+ HP 500+ lbs of torque&#33;&#33; (Daily Driver)
    1993 YJ "Buggy"
    1991 3/4 ton Suburban 6.2L turbodiesel

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    997
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 &#064; Sep 24 2006, 03&#58;25 PM) [snapback]66326[/snapback]</div>
    So the other three were labeled correctly?(ignition, battery 12v, and ground). Did you have to give anything else power?

    Thanks so much&#33;&#33; Hope your computer fixing at the &#39;rents went well. And congrats on the addition to your family. My wife and i just had our first 3 1/2 month ago, a little girl, Izzi.
    [/b]
    If you&#39;re looking at the C1 connector, I believe you are correct. I hadn&#39;t had a chance to pull up ALLDATA last night (another after-hours PC support call). Since I lost a hard drive last week, all my saved schematics are gone. I&#39;ll download them yet again, and send them to you if needed. There&#39;s a lot of schematics, but only a few that you&#39;ll actually need.
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Posts
    117
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(1BADC10 &#064; Sep 25 2006, 06&#58;07 AM) [snapback]66435[/snapback]</div>
    If you&#39;re looking at the C1 connector, I believe you are correct. I hadn&#39;t had a chance to pull up ALLDATA last night (another after-hours PC support call). Since I lost a hard drive last week, all my saved schematics are gone. I&#39;ll download them yet again, and send them to you if needed. There&#39;s a lot of schematics, but only a few that you&#39;ll actually need.
    [/b]
    Wow any help would be much appreciated (since i don&#39;t know much about schematics)
    2000 PSD F250 Super Duty Ext cab long bed 4x4 - a few mods...450+ HP 500+ lbs of torque&#33;&#33; (Daily Driver)
    1993 YJ "Buggy"
    1991 3/4 ton Suburban 6.2L turbodiesel

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Posts
    117
    Now i need to look at my 700R4 tranny, i can convert it to VSS, it might already be VSS but being 4x4 and in a truck that had cable drive, i&#39;m pretty sure it&#39;s cabls drive off of the Transfer case. We&#39;ll see what we can do tonight&#33;
    2000 PSD F250 Super Duty Ext cab long bed 4x4 - a few mods...450+ HP 500+ lbs of torque&#33;&#33; (Daily Driver)
    1993 YJ "Buggy"
    1991 3/4 ton Suburban 6.2L turbodiesel

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    997
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 &#064; Sep 25 2006, 10&#58;00 AM) [snapback]66450[/snapback]</div>
    Now i need to look at my 700R4 tranny, i can convert it to VSS, it might already be VSS but being 4x4 and in a truck that had cable drive, i&#39;m pretty sure it&#39;s cabls drive off of the Transfer case. We&#39;ll see what we can do tonight&#33;
    [/b]
    That&#39;s a preference for ya. You can have cable driven with an adapter to convert the signal to an electrical pulse. Seems like I remember that someone posted something about that when I first started my project. Don&#39;t remember if it were on this board or not.
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    997
    I&#39;m running back and forth while watching the Saints play against the Falcons. GO SAINTS&#33;&#33;&#33;

    *edited* Check ya PMs. Sent ya something nice&#33; <--- Sorry, not a gift from my avatar&#33; :-P

    NOW GET TO WORK&#33;&#33;&#33;
    Test-n-Tune (Nov 23, 2008) - 13.65s @ 98mph

  10. #20
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Chuck21387 &#064; Sep 25 2006, 04&#58;12 AM) [snapback]66433[/snapback]</div>
    Thats part of my problem, i&#39;m currently running an NP208 (cause i can&#39;t afford the adapters to the Dana20) so my rear shaft is the same length currently, i&#39;ll have enough room for a 3 row radiator in the stock location (recessed in the grill) and still run the factory fan. :-) Nice looking swap.

    So i&#39;m also gonna have to figure out something with a VSS huh?
    [/b]
    there is a way to short shaft the 208 case to make a longer driveshaft, but i cant remember the combo. that case was a short fixed yoke in either a dodge or ford, and can be hybrid together. the engine needs to be as far back as possible to keep the front axle out of the oil pan and make room for the exhaust to cross under the front of the pan to the right side. a 2" body lift makes all things easer when placing the engine. the right side manifold fits nicely arround the frame and lower part of the body. i didnt even cut the body. pluss it feels beter off road with the weight back futher in the chassis. they kind of get front heavy and scary going down hills.
    38" swampers, 350 tbi, 14 bolt rear, 10 bolt front

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