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Thread: 98 Suburban 4wd 5.7 to 01 6.0L questions

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  1. #1
    Thanks - I'm sending my computer to Lextech for the fuel gauge issue - he also told me to run the 98 oil and water temp sensors to get the gauges to read.
    84 K3500 Suburban, 05' 6.0L, forged, balanced, studded, boosted, 4L80E, NP205, D60/FF-14B, 37x12.50's.
    98 K2500 Suburban, currently undergoing 6.0L conversion

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Edmonton, AB, Canada
    Posts
    133
    My LS oil sensor had the same plug(single wire) as my obs sensor. I just plugged it in and it reads fine. Dunno if I got lucky or something haha
    Good to hear your on track though!
    Back Alley Motorsports 98 GMC
    -5.3l LM7 bored to 5.7l Thompson Motorsports -72mm T4 Magnum Turbo
    -TU1 Custom Grind cam(spec speed.inc) -799 heads
    -.660" Trick Flow dual valve springs -Forged Probe Pistons 3.902" flat top

  3. #3
    The oil sensor connector on my truck has 4 wires?
    84 K3500 Suburban, 05' 6.0L, forged, balanced, studded, boosted, 4L80E, NP205, D60/FF-14B, 37x12.50's.
    98 K2500 Suburban, currently undergoing 6.0L conversion

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Edmonton, AB, Canada
    Posts
    133
    4? Maybe suburbans are different
    Back Alley Motorsports 98 GMC
    -5.3l LM7 bored to 5.7l Thompson Motorsports -72mm T4 Magnum Turbo
    -TU1 Custom Grind cam(spec speed.inc) -799 heads
    -.660" Trick Flow dual valve springs -Forged Probe Pistons 3.902" flat top

  5. #5
    Just put the OBS oil sensor in (3 wire by the way, not 4) and still no oil pressure on gauge. Also - the fuel pump runs all the time now - I unplugged the new OBS oil sensor and the fuel pump turns off?! What gives?
    84 K3500 Suburban, 05' 6.0L, forged, balanced, studded, boosted, 4L80E, NP205, D60/FF-14B, 37x12.50's.
    98 K2500 Suburban, currently undergoing 6.0L conversion

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Long Beach California
    Posts
    637
    i had this issue also. turned out to be a bad oil pressure sensor (i hooked it up incorrectly and fried the contacts shut) which caused the pump to run continuously. the way it works is you have the pressure switch in parallel with your fuel pump relay. when you turn the key to on/start, the pcm will kick the relay on for 2 seconds to build the needed fuel pressure at the rails. The engine fires and now oil pressure has been created and obviously stays until engine get shut down. this pressure closes the contacts in your oil pressure switch which alows voltage to power your fuel pump continuously until pressure is dropped. This is why you can still hear your pump running in the tank for several seconds after you kill the motor. takes a bit for the oil pressure to bleed down and open the contacts in the oil pressure sensor. I believe its also a safety precaution in case of severe accident like a roll over.... do you want your fuel pump stil running after you roll over and are unconcious just cuz your key is still in the ON position? i sure dont!!!

    anyway, i know all this cuz i was having a similar issue and had to dig through all the wiring diagrams. makes complete sense to me now and i opted to keep it wired that way. some guys delete it but i personally like the extra safety. so it sounds like you have it wired incorrectly AND/OR your sensor is shot like mine was. i think it was like 10 bucks at autozone. cheap thing to replace.

    BTW, im sure youve figured it out by now but ill say it anyway. The sensor doubles as a oil pressure sensor AND fuel pump switch. thats why there are 3 wires on it.

    TAN - goes to oil pressure gauge on your cluster
    ORANGE - +12v going to one side of contacts on switch
    GRAY- comes off of other side of contacts of switch and goes to fuel pump


    PHEW!! hope that helps

    P.S. i drove around for a week having to get out and unplug the fuel pump everytime i parked somewhere before i figured this out....
    Last edited by kewljay223; 10-24-2013 at 11:53 PM.
    Like Tumbler in "Gone in 60" I'll drive anything with wheels or without

    My 95 ECSB LQ9 build thread - http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/lsx-t...to-95-obs.html
    CALI LEGAL ENGINE SWAP!
    Stock 03 LQ9, DBW, 95' 4l80e w/ Transgo shift kit, 2010 50# GM injectors, 2800 Circle D stall, Spectre CAI, Upgraded trans cooler, Home-made E-fans/shroud, Dual EP-381 fuel pumps w/Home-made hotwire kit
    NEXT ON LIST: Dual Battery setup, CAM/Valvetrain upgrade, Build my own rear mount turbo, TRU-TRAC, HIT THE STRIP!!!

  7. #7
    Another new sensor - fuel pump shuts off but still no reading on the gauge. hooked up a manual gauge to make sure I have pressure, all is well there. Going to chase down the wiring now....
    84 K3500 Suburban, 05' 6.0L, forged, balanced, studded, boosted, 4L80E, NP205, D60/FF-14B, 37x12.50's.
    98 K2500 Suburban, currently undergoing 6.0L conversion

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