you can get stud extractors, where you drill a hole and use a left handed extractor to turn it back out too.
i tried this and the extractor broke so i had to take the head up to the shop and use a carbide endmill to clean all that shit out and re-tap it to clean the threads.
1997 RCSB, AES 390 + 4L80E transplant, F1A Procharger, #160 injectors, Magnafuel 750, Schoenfield Longtubes, 3" flowmasters, Steve Morris Bullit cam, Circle D 3k stall, Ford 9" rear, Homemade Caltrac bars.
Done both ways. If you need more room, loosen body bolts, undo steerin shaft, and jack up the body a little bit. Makes easier when going through the fender. If you undo your grounds too, you could raise it up to 4".
2013 CC 5.3
81 C10 LS1 project
Going to give the welding a nut to the stud a try in the next few days
Prior to doing anything shoot some penetrating spray in there and let it sit. I would suggest doing this a few times then letting it sit
Should make getting it out easier.
ECSB 2kSierra 2wd 4.8L-K&N-HPtuners-Calspeed LT's-Magnaflow-Tahoe20's-HankookRH06
waiting to go in... 3.90s, 214/220cam
Man this crap sucks when it happens and very common it's either the front one or back one lol easier with engine or head off... I drill and re tap them with slot of wd40
Copper rtv. That's what I did. Works great and no more leaks.
99 Silverado 4.8l : Soon to be 80E swapped, then 6.0 swapped, ......
05 Yukon Denali 6.0l : Nelson Performance Tune, ......
8X S10 Blazer on a 8X 3/4 ton frame : 5.3l swapped, Nelson Performance tune, Schoenfeld LT's, 226/226 .598/.598 112, TH350, planetary doubler, NP 205, locker, spool, 38's, ......
It isn't gonna come out too easy because those bolts have yellow locktite on from the factory so i doubt penetrating oil will do much but welding the nut on might be a good shot because it gives you something to turn it out with and may heat up the locktite enough to break it free.