Hptuners Log data translation help required !

[George C]

for shifts

mph and rpm both have to be met in order to make a shift true....if rpm isnt being met then compare shift mph vs actual mph.. raise mph till it matches the rpm



with 8 psi you can easily get away with 1degree of timing deduct per psi...so figure what your motor NA would normally see and start removing timing from there. on 8psi you can run 20* timing easily with a AFR of 12.0

[farmtruc]

dont forget compression ratio has to do with timing as well. if you see hints of KR dont push it with pump fuel

[kerrige]

dont forget compression ratio has to do with timing as well. if you see hints of KR dont push it with pump fuel

This.^^^ I generally start adding timing a little bit at a time until I start to see even slight KR. I then remove some to stay safe. Timing will help build more power. This is coming from a tuning newb by comparison to these other guys. I might be a little over my head.

[2boosted]

Can you please post screen shots of your shift tables?

for shifts

mph and rpm both have to be met in order to make a shift true....if rpm isnt being met then compare shift mph vs actual mph.. raise mph till it matches the rpm

Here you go guys,

Looking at my mph vs rpm, mph are much lower, but on both cases, so according to that, shifting will ocour at whatever is first, mph or rpm.

Only 1 to 2 is going like that, 2-3 is going by rpm even tho the mph are lower !!!!????


Now, to resume, getting some more timing will make my truck faster at the same boost level?

And what is my boost level??? I see 157 kpa, how that translate to real world psi.

Remember I'm trying to target 8 psi.

[kerrige]

First thing I would try is raising the mph for the shift I am wondering if the tps vs rpm vs shift table is off somehow. In theory yes adding timing will increase your power at the same boost level as long as you get no KR. No a gauruntee, but yes in theory you should. 157kpa on a basic converter translates to almost 23psi but you need to Factor in ambient kpa which should be about 105. You are in fact just barely north of 8lbs maybe 8.1

[George C]

set the mph/rpm to correspond to eachother!!!

in HPtuners there is a conversion tool up top. in there it will translate KPA to psi, just remember 1 bar is 105 kpa=14.5 psi

i like to use the correct amount of timing per boost level in any platform

something to start doing is looking at the plugs for the mark on the strap. Also switch over to a cooler plug
the lightning is currently on BR7ef plugs at 16psi
the silverado is using Br8 at 18psi

Here you go guys,

Looking at my mph vs rpm, mph are much lower, but on both cases, so according to that, shifting will ocour at whatever is first, mph or rpm.

Only 1 to 2 is going like that, 2-3 is going by rpm even tho the mph are lower !!!!????


Now, to resume, getting some more timing will make my truck faster at the same boost level?

And what is my boost level??? I see 157 kpa, how that translate to real world psi.

Remember I'm trying to target 8 psi.

[farmtruc]

No need to shift at a higher rpm if your truck isn't making power up top.
Put the truck on the dyno, hp is probably peaking at 5300--5400rpms, which is typical.
Truck is loosing boost up top because the system can't flow.
I'm always for all the rpm you can turn an engine, but not when it's lacking power.

I think I had several dreams about this already, lol.

[2boosted]

No need to shift at a higher rpm if your truck isn't making power up top.<br />
Put the truck on the dyno, hp is probably peaking at 5300--5400rpms, which is typical.<br />
Truck is loosing boost up top because the system can't flow.<br />
I'm always for all the rpm you can turn an engine, but not when it's lacking power.<br />
<br />
I think I had several dreams about this already, lol.

<br />


so farmtruc, if hp is peaking 5400 rpm, gear change at 6000 is a nice spot so next gear drop on power band?

If the trick system can't flow in upper rpm what options do I have to cure that?

I wish I can avoid all the trouble to tune at 12 psi and race fuel....and then to 18 psi and race fuel. Tuning at 8 psi and pump gas is enough stress for a life time


Any good tuner in the house?

[farmtruc]

I'm just assuming. What's happening is the housing is too small, or the back pressure is too great, so the engine can only flow/spin so much; so to speak.
I'm not saying the trick kit isn't flowing, i'm saying you're engine needs more freedom.
If you're shifting at a certain rpm, try to increase it or lower it and see if there are any significant changes in 1/4 mile time.
Dyno will show power curve.
From that you can base your tuning from. I tend to shift trucks a little higher or past the power band as well, the momentum allows the truck to pull past, and less rpm drop during shifts.
Just see what feels best.

[2boosted]

for shifts<br />
<br />
mph and rpm both have to be met in order to make a shift true....if rpm isnt being met then compare shift mph vs actual mph.. raise mph till it matches the rpm<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
with 8 psi you can easily get away with 1degree of timing deduct per psi...so figure what your motor NA would normally see and start removing timing from there. on 8psi you can run 20* timing easily with a AFR of 12.0

<br />
<br />


there is no way I can figure what my engine timing likeness is at N/A state....she was born boosted.

I try to think engines are like humans. they all flesh and bones, but tend to act different when exposed to various situations. So do engines.

I think that if I can find a way to calculate my exact dynamic compression ratio, I'll be closer to pinpoint a generic number for the timing, and then work it up and down on my specific weather situations and other variable conditions.

To do that will you guys need my exact specs, or can you give general advice....like one size fits all?

thank you guys for all the advice.