Safest most dependable option on dual fuel lines

[1991SSP]

Whats the safest and best option to run my feed and return lines, The lines and exhaust are all I neeed to have this swap ready. I just want to make sure the line replacement is safe and reliable, something that will be good for years of daily use

[408Lbb]

-6 feed. -4 return. Stainless hose

[Ray@NP]

-6 on both lines

[TRPLXL2]

I ran my fuel lines all in braided -6, If you want to save some money buy the SUMMIT or JEGS brand fittings. They are 1/2 the price of the RUSSELL or Aeromotive versions. For what it's worth they are a pain in the arse to make up if you've never made them before, If you don't have the cutters to cut the line I found a way to make it work. We used electrical tape to wrap the line where we wanted to cut, and then used a cutoff wheel and cut in the middle of the tape. This worked pretty well, but the line frays a little bit. Then we took a small hose clamp and slid it over the end of the hose, this way you can draw it down small enough to get the fitting on the end of the hose. The transmission lines and fuel lines we had no problem with, but the power steering lines we got 3 bad RUSSELL fittings in a row. The guy at Summit didn't seem surprised, so It made me wonder If these are really worth the money but we already changed it all over so too late now.

[rkwhite61]

I too used braided -6 on both lines and used the electrical tape/cutoff wheel as trplxl2 stated.

[farmtruc]

safest is run hard line down the frame length, then crimp the end and use flexible hose from hard line to tank and fuel rail. flexible hose being what was said above. size should be 3/8".
return can be 5/16", or 3/8" is fine.
Use quality GM style quick connect ends or name brand compression / crimp fittings.

the best thing you can do is be sure all the fuel line has plenty of room to flex and move between components; make sure no fuel lines are near exhaust parts; make sure no fuel lines are near or resting on anything that is sharp or a 90deg edge (it'll rub right through), you wouldn't believe the stuff we see; be sure you over secure the fuel line with whatever you choose and be sure to remove the feed line going into the fuel rail and purge the entire system to rid it from any contaminants and debris. last thing you want is to finish and have a clogged injector. obviously catch the fuel in a bucket.

that's safe to me

[1991SSP]

Ive got it all fixed now, I went with dorman connects on the feed and return, used high quality rubber fuel injection hose rated for 200 PSI and 2 clamps per fitting, I got a 98 S10 fuel filter which fit directly into the old holder on the frame, it was correctly threaded on the gas tank side and has the quick connect on the engine side, for the return line near the filter I just cut the hard line, slid hose over it and used 3 clamps, routed both of them away from any sharp edges and exhaust and secured them with rubber lined clamps to the body of the truck. I had a reputable mechanic that has over 50 years experience look it over and he said I should have no worries, will still keep and eye on all connections in the future, thanks for the input, gotta love this site!!

[RedHeartbeat]

my trucks have run for years without issues doing it very similar to that.

[TRPLXL2]

I hope you have better luck then me, I used Goodyear fuel lines on my Firebird with the stainless clamps. Two months later the fuel rail started leaking where the clamp was at, filled the intake with gas and it caught the motor on fire. You will be fine with 2 clamps though, I only used one...

[1991SSP]

I hope you have better luck then me, I used Goodyear fuel lines on my Firebird with the stainless clamps. Two months later the fuel rail started leaking where the clamp was at, filled the intake with gas and it caught the motor on fire. You will be fine with 2 clamps though, I only used one...

I went overkill with the clamps, I have been thinking and probably will put 3 clamps on each connector, a fire is the last thing anyone needs or wants!!