got the pully lined up all the way..bolt grabbed at the very end i guess..the asp didnt have to go in as far as the oem ..damm what a pita
ill look him up thanks
got the pully lined up all the way..bolt grabbed at the very end i guess..the asp didnt have to go in as far as the oem ..damm what a pita
ill look him up thanks
crank pulley issues are a bear, mine is hillbilly pinned and welded, and the bolt is welded to the pulley. good times with beer.
procharger p1sc, nelson tune, 42# marine injectors, walbro 255, lt's, ory, 4" volant cat back, PerformaBuilt level 2 pro race trans, trans. cooler with e fan, 2500 stall, aem wideband, energy bushings, spohn perf. trailing and panhard rods, mb & gear alloy 22's ( ya 2 sets, im big ballin), ss brake lines, drilled & slotted rotors, bla bla bla bla bla bla bla,
and ya it will beat a hemi.
I know the GM (Kent-Moore) installer is just a M16 (I think?) threaded rod with a round socket looking thing, nut and washer, thread the rod into the crank, install the round looking socket over the rod, washer, then nut. 2 24mm wrenches to hold one nut and rotate the other on the threaded rod to push the crank pulley on. I imagine you could get some threaded rod, use an axle nut socket or something around 30mm with the same type of setup and it should work fine. Got lucky when I put mine on the LS6. Tapped it on with a deadblow enough to get a few turns of the bolt and impacted it on with no issue.
2000 Chevy Silverado RCSB LS6 5 speed, LS6 short block, 317 heads, LS6 intake, Lunati 220/224 .575/.575 112LSA cam, Edelbrock Headers, CTS-V accessory drive, Nelson Performance Custom Tune.
I just realized this thread was 7 months old. But anyways, I cut an old bolt under the head, welded it to another bolt, cut a length of pipe to fit over the bolt and long enough to get a good half inch of thread used a washer that was big enough to not fit through the balanced hole. Looked something like this. --::::|
Last edited by AFSP1211; 04-19-2012 at 07:00 PM. Reason: Opened my eyes