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Thread: Nitrous spark plug info

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dropem View Post
    ok this maybe a nob question but y does it matter if it has a projected ti. i mean what is the big risk of running it? Does it get to hot? do they burn off faster? what ? because i have heard of running the non projected tips but haven't really heard alot about them and are the br7ef's the plugs i should run because i just put a NX kit on my truck and im planing on spraying 250 to it
    I'm ASSUMING people are making a big deal because the plug can fall apart and the pieces can damage the engine. I pull my plugs and inspect them after EVERY bottle, and replace plugs after 3-5 bottles, so they don't really get a chance to 'wear down'. There is still a chance that something could happen, but there is probably a higher chance my fuel solenoid will fail and I'll run a large dry shot, in which case my plugs will be the least of my worries. A lot of things CAN go wrong...and obviously a 'non projected' tip is better. The drawbacks? No one has been able to say, my next day off, I'll try and get a hold of NGK. I'm sure there is SOME downfall. According to NGK's website iridium plugs are 'great for nitrous and race engines' but my nitrous kit says on it DO NOT USE A PLATINUM OR IRIDIUM PLUG. So who knows.
    blown transmissions are about as useful as 97% of the guys on this forum

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dropem View Post
    ok this maybe a nob question but y does it matter if it has a projected ti. i mean what is the big risk of running it? Does it get to hot? do they burn off faster? what ? because i have heard of running the non projected tips but haven't really heard alot about them and are the br7ef's the plugs i should run because i just put a NX kit on my truck and im planing on spraying 250 to it
    Don't be afraid to ask questions ever... it's cheaper to ask then blow something up lol. Projected tip has less surface area which gets hotter. On a 250 shot, you wanna run an 8 series plug, it does not hurt to run around on them N/A and when you're ready to spray at any moment, they're in there ready to go. If you have bottle or boost... do you really run someone N/A? Whats that lol.
    Quote Originally Posted by oleshifty View Post
    ok. you're right. I'm wrong. Done trying to DISCUSS. If there was no power difference, everyone would be running 8 range plugs on all cars because it's 'safer'. My fuel economy suffered, and I lost ability to spin tires from a dead stop (not that I could ever really smoke the 36's..but can atleast break them loose with tr5s). With 'nitrous tune' it got even worse, but that's to be expected from lack of timing. That was with a tr6 gapped at .035 vs ac-delco platinums with about 60k miles on them gapped at .050 or whatever original gap gm recommended.
    We are only talking surface area here... safer! What was the gap on the plugs when you couldn't spin the tires? See above^^^. You can't optimal performance all the time. Arm yourself with the better plugs when you know there is a chance you might spray... only since you say you can tell a difference between a 55 and a 6 plug, hell that could have been anything... more humid/hotter that day, bad gas, many other variables. Don't get upset or feel you are getting flamed, it is a debate... just... you are losing lol J/K it's all in good fun. Take this info and use it, it's good stuff
    30' Ford Model A Tudor Sedan - Custom chassis - Big bore LS2 - twin B76's - Glide - 9" w/ 3.07 gears - 30" DR tire - 2k lbs cruiser

  3. #23
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    Yeah, I ain't hatin on ya, just sayin...The drawbacks are, I would suspect, the plugs probably won't last as long. I didn't ask the guy I talked to about that because, I don't care. I bought one set of -7's and 100 -8's. Gotta pay to play and thats part of it.

    I agree, it's hard to argue that the tr6 is a bad plug, thousands of people use them. But there are better options for nitrous and boost, especially when start using larger amounts of nitrous and more boost
    2007 RCSB|DTR81 built LSx 3xx|PRC|NX|BOGART|MSD|QUICKFUEL 950 E85|4L80|FTI Converters|Smith RaceCraft|Racepak
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  4. #24
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    I ran the tr6's for over a month, it felt weak off the juice the whole time. Was like driving a new truck when I put the tr5's and N/A tune back in. I realize you need to sacrifice some N/A to make the nitrous safer. Which is main reason it's off the truck now, and I have 2 tunes. I know I won't be using it for a couple months, so I wanted my N/A power back.

    When I originally bought the nitrous kit, I was planning on running a 75-100 shot max....that went out the window pretty quick. I still think you 2 are a little more extreme, so what you require is different then 95% of the guys who will read this post. Someone running a basically stock motor, spraying a 75 shot once a week can get away with TR6's on a daily driver and have ZERO problems. Guys with huge cams, and 250 shots, should probably stick with the non-projected tip plug, huge timing cuts, and change plugs after every bottle. There is no perfect solution...I was just curious downside of the non-projected tip. I know going from platinum/iridium to a standard plug, you drastically cut the life down. Some people like only changing their plugs every 100k miles. With my body lift, I can change all 8 in about 10 minutes (including gaping/anti seizing the threads), so I don't mind doing it once a month.
    blown transmissions are about as useful as 97% of the guys on this forum

  5. #25
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    It felt weak because you were obviously running your tune up for nitrous. Probably would have been able to break your tires loose if you would have put the timing back in it that you had pulled for nitrous.

    You're getting defensive for no apparent reason. I found this information to be helpful and thought I would pass it on...You can take it or not, I still don't care.

    As far as life span, I don't see there being any difference in the tr6 and the plugs I'm using now. If people can't afford to change plugs regularly(not saying you can't)then they should prolly find another hobby
    2007 RCSB|DTR81 built LSx 3xx|PRC|NX|BOGART|MSD|QUICKFUEL 950 E85|4L80|FTI Converters|Smith RaceCraft|Racepak
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  6. #26
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    Okay, I'm done arguing in this thread after this... I don't mind helping to the best of my knowledge for anyone else... but, a 150 shot on a stock motor is no "baby shot" and those pistons aren't as forgiving as say forged ones. Why risk it for no downfall? 50-75 shot... okay, I'm still running the br6's lol.
    30' Ford Model A Tudor Sedan - Custom chassis - Big bore LS2 - twin B76's - Glide - 9" w/ 3.07 gears - 30" DR tire - 2k lbs cruiser

  7. #27
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    so are u saying i should run these? B8EFS part #1049

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  8. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by dropem View Post
    so are u saying i should run these? B8EFS part #1049
    probably not a bad place to start. get someone that is good at reading plugs and let them help you. the plug never lies. they'll be able to tell you if you need to go colder or hotter
    2007 RCSB|DTR81 built LSx 3xx|PRC|NX|BOGART|MSD|QUICKFUEL 950 E85|4L80|FTI Converters|Smith RaceCraft|Racepak
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  9. #29
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    You could try the 7's and check the heat on the plug about the time you got the timing and afr right to see if you would need to go to an 8... I'd be willing to bet you could get away with a 7 but an 8 wouldn't hurt. In other words right in the middle of plugs... Thats where I'm at with the 9's and 10's and the 10's didn't last very long on full boost runs and I started getting a miss... went back to 9's n just keepin an eye on them
    30' Ford Model A Tudor Sedan - Custom chassis - Big bore LS2 - twin B76's - Glide - 9" w/ 3.07 gears - 30" DR tire - 2k lbs cruiser

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by PurpleMinivan View Post
    You could try the 7's and check the heat on the plug about the time you got the timing and afr right to see if you would need to go to an 8... I'd be willing to bet you could get away with a 7 but an 8 wouldn't hurt. In other words right in the middle of plugs... Thats where I'm at with the 9's and 10's and the 10's didn't last very long on full boost runs and I started getting a miss... went back to 9's n just keepin an eye on them

    I'm fairly good at reading the timing mark and rich/lean... How do you decide to go up or down a heat range?

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