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Thread: Official NBS 4.3v6 to GEN 3 V8 swap Guide

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2009
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    hot & windy
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    sounds like VATS needs to be disabled. who did your tune?
    00 FRC - just top end, exhaust, and a hot-air intake
    99 Sierra - 5.3 / 5spd
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Broken Bow, OK
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    Do the VATS relearn. You have all the VATS equipment, you don't need it disabled, just the relearn.

  3. #3
    I didn't get tuned.I was using the stock v8 ecu instead. So I have too take the truck too dealer? This swap is a pain in the butt. All this info wasn't posted anywhere
    The fuel pump does prime tough.
    Last edited by b18c1turboedek; 10-13-2010 at 05:56 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    North County San Diego
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    I'm getting ready to do the swap and I have spent allot of time on this board reading and all you need to know is right here!!! I'm not trying be an ass..... take a second, grab a cup of joe or a cold beer and take a look at this site and posts. You'll find a ton of info!!! Trust me...

    Carnell

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Broken Bow, OK
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    No, the VATS relearn is something you can do yourself.
    key on, crank (no start), wait 10 minutes (600 seconds) (not a second less) with key on run, shut key off, replete 2 more times. the 4th crank try it will start (if it was a VATS issue.)

    I'm not entirely convinced this is your issue though since you say the starter isn't cranking. Generally VATS issues give a crank and start then immediately die.

    Try it though, because your VATS will have to be relinked since you swapped PCMs. It is something you will have to do anyway.

  6. #6
    Awesomel you have been a great help man..



    And for the post above. I never read anywhere about the vats system in this thread. I have read as much as I could also. I'm just new too the Chevy world.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
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    20,540
    You do not need the TCI controller for the 80e to work on a Gen3/4 engine, the PCM can be tuned to control 100% of the shift functionality. You don't need to change gears to get the 80e to accelerate quickly either, the 80e converter is a lot looser than a 60e converter is. It's your money, spend it how you like but do it wisely and well informed.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Crowder, OK
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    Why clutter up a motor conversion topic with the same tranny question you asked in a new thread?

    1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
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    2005 GMC CCLB DRW 6.6 Duramax 4x4 191,000 and counting
    2013 FORD CCSB F350 6.7 Powerstroke 4x4


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    115
    That's a fair question. Here's my honest reply: First, I know some guys participate in some sub-forums but not in others. Second, I'm not the first to ask a swap related trans upgrade question in this thread, but those guys didn't get grief for it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Medford, OR
    Posts
    142
    What you have to keep in mind is that we are all here to help each other. And we honestly are trying to you. You give us parameters that are clearly outside the known livability limits of the 4l60 (which is barely adequate for non-towing light duty use-and there are some who wouldnt even go that far) and then you ignore the advice and say youre going to do it anyway. I havent read any other posts you have put up with this same question, but I bet youre getting the same answer in those other places too. Im sorry, but it is what it is, and its going to be what it is going to be. And youre going to have to get used to people losing patience with you if you continue to ignore what they tell you. Just because you want a certain answer doesnt mean that its the right one-or that you'll get one that you like.

    As far as whether anyone can build a '60 to live behind your engine, and in front of your load, the answer is yes. But the catch is, for how long. '60s can be built to take a lot of horsepower in a light car and do the 1/4 mile repeatedly, but towing 25,000lbs+ up a mountain or even a long 2% grade is going to fry it. It'll be fine around town but dont get too far away from home, or its going to be a long walk.

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