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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    2,172
    clifford, viper, code alarm; all good brands. you only need to remove the knee bolster and metal cover behind it. There are plenty of pics in my garage that may help with how easy it is. all of your power and ignition wires can be tied together during prep for the alarm and all of the other needed wires can go to the BCM. I highly recommend cutting unneeded wires long and taping them together in case you need/want them later. You can find door triggers, park lights, headlights, horn, lock and unlock all at the BCM. with all of your power/ignition wires you can route them kinda behind the fuse box, between the back of the fuse box and metal sub-dash. There you will also find a harness that plugs into the fusebox and goes across the metal brackets to the key cylinder, this harness has all starter and ignition wires. yellow is starter, pink is ign 1, white is ign 2, orange is heat/ac. Power comes from the key cylinder and goes straight down the steering column, it will be red/white. At the BCM(located under steering column); +lock:light blue, +unlock:white, -horn:black +parking lights:brown, factory disarm: lt green, I can't remember the door triggers but you will have to diode isolate them to connect to the door trigger input on the alarm because otherwise the dome override option can interfere/bypass door trigger. TEST ALL OF YOUR WIRES BEFORE YOU CONNECT, I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY OF THIS INFORMATION
    2005 black Yukon XL SLT - traded in for me wife's new Fusion (GM sucks these days)
    2002 black Yukon SLT (the skinny sister)
    1969 green Pontiac GTO (Layla, AKA the black sheep)

    INSTALLS AND MORE.. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...-low-life.html
    Sticky/broken gauges? I can help. PM me for details.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    san antonio TX
    Posts
    1,365
    wow sounds like to much wiring for me to handle, dont want to screw up any of my wiring. thanks for your help lolyf if i decide to do it myself im sure im gonna have some question for you if thats ok. alot of people are using avital alarms are they any good?
    1982 c10 lsx swaped, NP tuned, true duals, 4:11s, trutrac, e-fans, CAI

  3. #3
    Let a pro do it and get a viper with a 1 mile range on the 2 way remote. I have one on my truck and the wifes SS
    99RCSB Broke because I wasted thousands and thousands of dollars on my truck.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    2,172
    Avital, if I remember correctly is a division of DEI. DEI makes viper, Clifford, hornet, python, and avital(i think). I personally have had better experiences using viper or Clifford being that they are the top two brands of DEI. I like Code Alarm because of their RPS (real panic sound) which is basically random horn honks when the alarm is triggered. They are the only company that has RPS to the best of my knowledge. Aside from that they seem to be a little finicky from time to time; can't unlock without pressing lock first, cant remote start without pressing lock first, one day the range will be 1000ft and the next day 20ft. However, when it goes off, EVERYONE knows and looks. Code Alarm also has a 1-mile range system that works better than the standard ones, they are the SRT series(they will have SRT in the model number.
    Last edited by lo-lyf; 08-17-2010 at 03:04 PM.
    2005 black Yukon XL SLT - traded in for me wife's new Fusion (GM sucks these days)
    2002 black Yukon SLT (the skinny sister)
    1969 green Pontiac GTO (Layla, AKA the black sheep)

    INSTALLS AND MORE.. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...-low-life.html
    Sticky/broken gauges? I can help. PM me for details.

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