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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Wichita Falls, Texas
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    832
    I hear CLifford stuff is nice http://www.clifford.com/
    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=4251&dateline=1206558  920

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    San Antonio/Laredo
    Posts
    364
    i like viper or code alarm. i got a diagrams incase you need help, i did mine on my own took me about 3 hours

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    san antonio TX
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    1,365
    Quote Originally Posted by fubutx View Post
    i like viper or code alarm. i got a diagrams incase you need help, i did mine on my own took me about 3 hours
    do you have to remove all door panels to run wire?
    1982 c10 lsx swaped, NP tuned, true duals, 4:11s, trutrac, e-fans, CAI

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    San Antonio/Laredo
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    364
    Quote Originally Posted by lechez71 View Post
    do you have to remove all door panels to run wire?
    i did not take off any panels, all i got off was the knee bolster and the panel where the lever to take off the foot brake

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Wichita Falls, TX
    Posts
    2,172
    clifford, viper, code alarm; all good brands. you only need to remove the knee bolster and metal cover behind it. There are plenty of pics in my garage that may help with how easy it is. all of your power and ignition wires can be tied together during prep for the alarm and all of the other needed wires can go to the BCM. I highly recommend cutting unneeded wires long and taping them together in case you need/want them later. You can find door triggers, park lights, headlights, horn, lock and unlock all at the BCM. with all of your power/ignition wires you can route them kinda behind the fuse box, between the back of the fuse box and metal sub-dash. There you will also find a harness that plugs into the fusebox and goes across the metal brackets to the key cylinder, this harness has all starter and ignition wires. yellow is starter, pink is ign 1, white is ign 2, orange is heat/ac. Power comes from the key cylinder and goes straight down the steering column, it will be red/white. At the BCM(located under steering column); +lock:light blue, +unlock:white, -horn:black +parking lights:brown, factory disarm: lt green, I can't remember the door triggers but you will have to diode isolate them to connect to the door trigger input on the alarm because otherwise the dome override option can interfere/bypass door trigger. TEST ALL OF YOUR WIRES BEFORE YOU CONNECT, I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY OF THIS INFORMATION
    2005 black Yukon XL SLT - traded in for me wife's new Fusion (GM sucks these days)
    2002 black Yukon SLT (the skinny sister)
    1969 green Pontiac GTO (Layla, AKA the black sheep)

    INSTALLS AND MORE.. http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...-low-life.html
    Sticky/broken gauges? I can help. PM me for details.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    san antonio TX
    Posts
    1,365
    wow sounds like to much wiring for me to handle, dont want to screw up any of my wiring. thanks for your help lolyf if i decide to do it myself im sure im gonna have some question for you if thats ok. alot of people are using avital alarms are they any good?
    1982 c10 lsx swaped, NP tuned, true duals, 4:11s, trutrac, e-fans, CAI

  7. #7
    Let a pro do it and get a viper with a 1 mile range on the 2 way remote. I have one on my truck and the wifes SS
    99RCSB Broke because I wasted thousands and thousands of dollars on my truck.

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