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Thread: Timing retard trick

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mean05 View Post
    you activate the nitrous it then activates that relay and that turns on the resistor and then the pcm sees the 149* IAT
    I was going to ask this, seems like it would be easier to tie that in with the arming button on the N20, that way you got one less button.. It can be monitored through the interceptor to verify that the IAT is reading the correct degrees, and the advance can me watched also to verify it is pulling the correct amount of timing out...Seems easy enough..

  2. #12
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    it's very easy to do Jon and doesnt take to long to install
    2006 silverado SS....Clifford Jr...turbo coming soon
    1970 Chevelle ly6 swap....d1 coming soon

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by duckysbht View Post
    So this is your grand scheme to run both tunes at once, and get the most power out of both..
    Only one tune at a time, but yes to get the most out of both....LOL

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mean05 View Post
    it's very easy to do Jon and doesnt take to long to install
    Seems like it might take 30 min with mounting a relay and running some wires, and about $6 worth of parts... Then I have to get my tuner to change the tables....I think they are set to pull 4* right now at that temp...

  5. #15
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    just after you hook it up unhook the power to the noids and watch the scan to make sure it's seeing the proper IAT and pulling the timing like it should....on your shot i'd pull 6*
    2006 silverado SS....Clifford Jr...turbo coming soon
    1970 Chevelle ly6 swap....d1 coming soon

  6. #16
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    Change "AIT" to "IAT", remove the apostrophe and capitalize Ohms, and tell people that "C" is current (in this case B+) and I have no problem with the schematic. Wanna see if I can look up temp vs. resistance for the IAT? Oh yeah, the ground symbol is asymmetrical....

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mean05 View Post
    just after you hook it up unhook the power to the noids and watch the scan to make sure it's seeing the proper IAT and pulling the timing like it should....on your shot i'd pull 6*
    Thanks V, we will pull atleast 6*. Since that is what is pulled right now. I will probably do this tomorrow evening...I've always wanted something to restore the lost power of the N20 tune...been looking at timing modules and they all seem to do the same thing. This is just homemade....LOL

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by GasGuzzler View Post
    Change "AIT" to "IAT", remove the apostrophe and capitalize Ohms, and tell people that "C" is current (in this case B+) and I have no problem with the schematic. Wanna see if I can look up temp vs. resistance for the IAT? Oh yeah, the ground symbol is asymmetrical....
    Not my schematic.... its borrowed from another site...All I did is copy and paste sir...

  9. #19
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    Just joshing bro. Sounds good. Need the chart?

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by GasGuzzler View Post
    Just joshing bro. Sounds good. Need the chart?
    Sure..post it up


    Nathan Please!!!!!

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