What the eFF is wrong with my motor mounts? (pics)

[Chevy-Art]

I know on my motor mounts, there was a triangle that was not flush. Do yours have that?

[RedHeartbeat]

Just messin with ya. LOL Yeah, the two holes on the stock mounts go on top. There are 6 holes in the block. The adapters should go on the four forward holes closest to the radiator end of the engine. Any holes for the adapters should be on the end of the adapter at the front of the engine, also. Can you put the bottom bolt in first, in the old mount to the adapter? You may have to trim the motor mount cups to clear the block.

The Hooker mounts have the cutout to clear the hump in the motor mount cups, I believe. If not, drill, grind or torch the hump section out or heat it up and flatten it.

[Benchmark]

Can you put the bottom bolt in first, in the old mount to the adapter? You may have to trim the motor mount cups to clear the block.

No, can't put the bolt in at all, the small triangular mount on the R/S of the block at the bottom (three little holes, you can see in pic #2 of my first post prevent it from doing that.

I guess I was under the (mistaken) impression that these would truly be a bolt-in and go situation.

[RedHeartbeat]

They'll probably work perfect with something like this... Mr. Gasket 3671 - Mr. Gasket Bushings & Mounts – SummitRacing.com

[Benchmark]

They'll probably work perfect with something like this... Mr. Gasket 3671 - Mr. Gasket Bushings & Mounts – SummitRacing.com

Nice thought, but I think they would have to be used with solid trans mounts... because this is primarily a plow & work truck, I was hoping to retain some flex in the driveline...

[RedHeartbeat]

Those mounts are no more solid than the stock cups are solid.

[jkalwei]

I used the same mounts as you did on my swap and had to cut a section out to clear the block on the passenger side and had to use washers to clear the triangle part of the original mount if that makes sense.