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Thread: Just Bought An LQ4 Powertrain..Bye V6 You Did Your Part LOL

  1. #1

    Just Bought An LQ4 Powertrain. Bye bye V6 You Did Your Part

    I just purchased a complete 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 powertrain, complete with wiring harness and everything else needed for a swap. For the last couple of weeks I've been looking at the "4.3 to 6.0 Tutorials". Although they're all good write ups, I'm a complete noob and get a bit confused with some of the subjects. Some of the write ups make the whole process sound easy, but others seem a bit harder Like for instance one mentions removing the intake manifold, is this true? Also, what other parts are recommended in order to complete the swap.
    Last edited by RichardLSX; 07-06-2011 at 01:28 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    should be easy. intake should be good. i think the 2000 had cast iron heads... maybe not. still good deal. 50k is nothing. and could find some 317 alum heads cheap.
    single digit street truck


    for build info

    http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...cs-garage.html

    The best advice I have ever heard:... Only take B( . Y . )ST advice from someone that is CURRENTLY running a turbo setup close to, or bigger than what you want......

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    the reason to remove the intake is to protect it from damage since its made of plastic and only takes a few minutes to remove and install. You will also have better access to the upper bellhousing bolts with the intake off the engine. Its very common to break the brake booster vacuum port when installing the engine with the intake on it. It is always better to be safe than sorry.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  4. #4
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    The gaskets on the older ones suck anyway so pulling the intake kills two birds with one stone. I think the only 6.0 LQ4 iron heads are 1999.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by RedHeartbeat View Post
    the reason to remove the intake is to protect it from damage since its made of plastic and only takes a few minutes to remove and install. You will also have better access to the upper bellhousing bolts with the intake off the engine. Its very common to break the brake booster vacuum port when installing the engine with the intake on it. It is always better to be safe than sorry.
    So removing the intake shouldnt be hard?

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Denton Texas
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    10 bolts, a few hoses, two fuel lines at most... pretty easily done. Reuse the stock silicone embossed gaskets to put it back together. It also gives you the opportunity to clean up under the intake and toss the foam seals that go on the ends. While its apart I like to smear a little silicone around the knock sensor seals to keep water out of them in the future.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  7. #7
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    To each his own but I've seen and replaced enough of these leaking (vacuum) intake gaskets to use new ones. Yes, they're high priced for two chunks of plastic but...

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    the swap wont be bad....you swapping trans too?

    if not i bet you have the harness for the 4l80 since u got it out of a 2500....fair warning....ive been down that road before 4l80 has a different harness then the 4l60
    ↓↓↓click pic to go to garage↓↓↓

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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    I remove my intake manifold all the time to clean it up, it takes less then 2 minutes. Everything on this motor is easy to do, remove heads, cam swap, intake, changing plug wires...

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by banker099 View Post
    the swap wont be bad....you swapping trans too?

    if not i bet you have the harness for the 4l80 since u got it out of a 2500....fair warning....ive been down that road before 4l80 has a different harness then the 4l60
    Yes I'm also swapping the transmission. I will ask the guy if he is including the 4l80e wiring harness, thanks for the warning!
    Last edited by RichardLSX; 07-06-2011 at 01:29 PM.

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