Well I just got it to calabrate but, What are yoou running your drivetrain loss at? And how are you mounting yours?Originally Posted by TXsilverado
Well I just got it to calabrate but, What are yoou running your drivetrain loss at? And how are you mounting yours?
Step 1. crus at it.
Step 2. get a hammer.
Step 3. torch it.
I have a dlo case for my 2g iphone and it has rubber grips on the back of it so it doesn't slide around when launching but I just set it face up on the center console as far as my trigger I Set it to .14 to .15 it seems to work fine I would like to know my trucks exact weight to get a more accurate hosepower reading. I found the PDF manual on the website and it says to set drivetrain loss to 20%.
07 ECSB 5.3 , Corsa Sport Exhaust , Magnaflow Catted Y-pipe, SLP Cold Air Intake , Corvette Servo, Tinted taillights , HP tuners Debadged
The weight is around 5400 pounds for a ecsb 2wd and 5550 ecsb4wd i set mine at 5900 to include me and my stero and anyother crap that is in the truck.
Step 1. crus at it.
Step 2. get a hammer.
Step 3. torch it.
Thank you for the setup info. I'll try this at the track to see how it works.
2006 Superior Blue Trailblazer SS AWD, Stock as a rock
Sold: 2002 GMC Sportside Denali front end with a 2002 LS1, FLT level 5, Yank 2600, Trick Turbo, T76, Nelson intercooler, 60LB injectors, Warbro fuel pump, Eaton locker, Magnaflow, 3.42, Nelson Performance Tuning (speed density).
Sold: 1981 GMC LB RC 1500 2002 4.8L 4L60E 12 bolt 3.73 Richmond Lock Right AC PS Nelson Performance tuning
I saw this app like a month or so ago and was kinda skeptical about it, but now that I hear things like this from people I trust more than the bs people they put on their reviews Im thinkin about buying it and seeing what happens. I agree with Chase it needs to be proven better, like take the phone and do a run, do a dyno run right after, and then do a 1/4 run right after that....just my
T-RAV99 GMC | 5.3 | Skinny White Guy Tuned
I agree. With you but 12.99 is cheaper gamble than buying a gtech. Now I'm not saying that this is the best thing out there. Iam waiting to see the track results for the final say on this piece of software.I saw this app like a month or so ago and was kinda skeptical about it, but now that I hear things like this from people I trust more than the bs people they put on their reviews Im thinkin about buying it and seeing what happens. I agree with Chase it needs to be proven better, like take the phone and do a run, do a dyno run right after, and then do a 1/4 run right after that....just my
Last edited by Jetsetterak; 10-10-2008 at 01:00 AM.
07 ECSB 5.3 , Corsa Sport Exhaust , Magnaflow Catted Y-pipe, SLP Cold Air Intake , Corvette Servo, Tinted taillights , HP tuners Debadged
I bought it last night and did a quick setup for my GTO. I tried it on my way to work this morning and it showed a 14.90 @ 100 mph and 280 HP. Compare that to my best track time of 13.57 @ 105 and the 350rwhp that these cars with the manual trans typically put down stock. Something doesn't seem right.
Those of you who changed the trigger - why? Mine was at .10, should I try .12 or .14 instead?
2006 GTO M6 Brazen Orange
2006 Silverado CCSB Duramax
i bet you need to reset the trigger. when you try brake stalling it trips the timer because its triggered by such a small amount of G-force. watch the timer before you launch and make sure it hasnt already started before you leave. if it does add some to the trigger and it helps eliminate the problem
im testing mine out tonight on the local 1/8 mile.
old mod list: H/C/I/N/E/G 408
new mod list: 5.3, gears/posi, mufler and tune : (
Ok, I'll try the trigger at .14 and see how that does. I'm taking the goat to the track tomorrow night...I'll be sure to get some comparisons between this and the actual slips.
2006 GTO M6 Brazen Orange
2006 Silverado CCSB Duramax
Well I'm glad I only paid $12 for this program.
First off, the accelerometer or whatever is built into the iPod is VERY sensitive to temperature changes. If I calibrated it inside the car where it was warmer and then took it outside where it was cold, it was off by as much as 50%. So....I had to recalibrate it before every run to make sure it was right.
I put in the weight for my car that I got from the ls1gto forum. Several people have agreed that 3750 is about the right weight for the car, so I added 190 lbs for me and got 3940.
My first run at this weight compared as follows:
Parameter--------Slip---------Dynolicious
60'--------------2.322--------2.63
330'------------6.134---------6.45
1/8 mi----------9.212---------9.63
1/8 mph--------80.421--------79.0
1000'-----------11.738--------12.38
1/4 mi----------14.012--------14.73
1/4 mph--------102.437-------97.1
Based on that info, plus the 14.9 @ 97 that it gave me on the street, I decided to add a little bit of weight in the setup to see if I could get the results to be more accurate. I changed the weight to 4200.
Run 2 must have had some weird bump or acceleration registered.
Parameter--------Slip---------Dynolicious
60'--------------2.325--------2.54
330'------------6.065---------6.00
1/8 mi----------9.102---------8.20
1/8 mph--------81.656--------119.3
1000'-----------11.603--------9.84
1/4 mi----------13.854--------11.13
1/4 mph--------103.492-------177.4
It also managed to register 2020hp for some reason
Run 3 was done at the same 4200 weight
Parameter--------Slip---------Dynolicious
60'--------------2.213--------2.51
330'------------5.961---------6.35
1/8 mi----------9.003---------9.80
1/8 mph--------81.448--------69.9
1000'-----------11.516--------12.93
1/4 mi----------13.780--------15.70
1/4 mph--------103.135-------78.3
I was not able to get anything close to accurate out of this program.
2006 GTO M6 Brazen Orange
2006 Silverado CCSB Duramax
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