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Thread: Suggestions/Ideas on hooking

  1. #31
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    Apr 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_jester View Post
    what size are your tires, my tbss has 265/55/20's and im 2wd and they dead hook. i went up a tad from the stock 255's that were stock (after i smoked em bald) and i get almost no wheel spin off the line, just a little chirp.
    You have WAY better weight transfer than the trucks. Not to mention more weight over your rear tires.
    Gone, but not forgotten!

  2. #32
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    Sep 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXsilverado View Post
    you can get a set of spring clamps from 0-reily for about 10 bux. they keep them in stock. it looks like a u bolt with a solid plate. clamp the front side of your spring pack (cab side).


    if your current shocks are the right size for your application, just pull your shocks and measure the extended length and compressed length and call up the technical center of summit racing and they can hook you up with the right shocks. they are extreemly helpfull and know their crap. i measured bolt eye to bolt eye when figuring out which shocks i needed.
    does it matter how far down the springs you do it, or how close to the end?
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  3. #33
    You might not have any weight in the back so the tires can stick or maybe you need fatter rubbers?!
    01 GMC Sierra, 141.6 db sound system, Nelson performance tune, flowmaster, k&n air filter, FLT level 3 tranny w/ 2600 stall, LS3 cam, LS6 valve springs, More to come

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by duckysbht View Post
    does it matter how far down the springs you do it, or how close to the end?
    i did mine all the way at the end of the overload spring that way it was locked down right around the middle. the overload spring will also have the largest mechanical advantage if its clamped at that point.

    old mod list: H/C/I/N/E/G 408
    new mod list: 5.3, gears/posi, mufler and tune : (

  5. #35
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    so many things to do lol...go AWD and be done with it

    but seriously it just takes a lil time to get it dialed in...they are giving you some good pointers so i will stay out of it...Red and TX have said what i would tell you to do
    2006 silverado SS....Clifford Jr...turbo coming soon
    1970 Chevelle ly6 swap....d1 coming soon

  6. #36
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    oh yeah....the best suspension in the world wont help if your running crap tires.

    old mod list: H/C/I/N/E/G 408
    new mod list: 5.3, gears/posi, mufler and tune : (

  7. #37
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    Jul 2007
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    Cedar Park,TX
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    I dont really agree on clamping the front of the pack. When you launch all the force is trying to point the pinion up, clamping the front will only keep the springs from sliding. If you were to clamp the rear of the pack then you would prevent the rear springs from unleafing (spreading out) which would GREATLY reduce axle wrap.
    01' 2500HD 4X4
    6.0L 4l80E
    stock....
    -Chris

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXsilverado View Post
    oh yeah....the best suspension in the world wont help if your running crap tires.
    Yeah I know. Jeff let me borrow his slicks at temple and I only hit like a high 2.0 60ft. He told me to wait till we get to SAR then I will really know whether I should look into different setups/slicks for my truck. Also this thread was another way to help me get ideas on better driveability too. Because right now my truck rides like ass.
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85mudblazin View Post
    I dont really agree on clamping the front of the pack. When you launch all the force is trying to point the pinion up, clamping the front will only keep the springs from sliding. If you were to clamp the rear of the pack then you would prevent the rear springs from unleafing (spreading out) which would GREATLY reduce axle wrap.
    you could do both if you wanted. the ride would be pretty harsh though. the main purpose of clamping the front of the back is to keep the leaf pack from distorting into a S shape on a hard launch. its lost power and it causes traction loss when that built up energy releases.

    clamping the rear only would help twist the front side of the spring pack on a hard launch so i say either clamp the front only, or clamp both but dont clamp the rear alone.

    clamping the rear alone would help point the pinion down some and help it resist climbing the ring but it wont help the binding of the leaf springs at all.

    old mod list: H/C/I/N/E/G 408
    new mod list: 5.3, gears/posi, mufler and tune : (

  10. #40
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    Jan 2005
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    then again theres always that sayin that "every truck is different"

    old mod list: H/C/I/N/E/G 408
    new mod list: 5.3, gears/posi, mufler and tune : (

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