You might not have any weight in the back so the tires can stick or maybe you need fatter rubbers?!
01 GMC Sierra, 141.6 db sound system, Nelson performance tune, flowmaster, k&n air filter, FLT level 3 tranny w/ 2600 stall, LS3 cam, LS6 valve springs, More to come
so many things to do lol...go AWD and be done with it
but seriously it just takes a lil time to get it dialed in...they are giving you some good pointers so i will stay out of it...Red and TX have said what i would tell you to do
2006 silverado SS....Clifford Jr...turbo coming soon
1970 Chevelle ly6 swap....d1 coming soon
I dont really agree on clamping the front of the pack. When you launch all the force is trying to point the pinion up, clamping the front will only keep the springs from sliding. If you were to clamp the rear of the pack then you would prevent the rear springs from unleafing (spreading out) which would GREATLY reduce axle wrap.
01' 2500HD 4X4
6.0L 4l80E
stock....
-Chris
Yeah I know. Jeff let me borrow his slicks at temple and I only hit like a high 2.0 60ft. He told me to wait till we get to SAR then I will really know whether I should look into different setups/slicks for my truck. Also this thread was another way to help me get ideas on better driveability too. Because right now my truck rides like ass.
1951 3100
1984 C10
you could do both if you wanted. the ride would be pretty harsh though. the main purpose of clamping the front of the back is to keep the leaf pack from distorting into a S shape on a hard launch. its lost power and it causes traction loss when that built up energy releases.
clamping the rear only would help twist the front side of the spring pack on a hard launch so i say either clamp the front only, or clamp both but dont clamp the rear alone.
clamping the rear alone would help point the pinion down some and help it resist climbing the ring but it wont help the binding of the leaf springs at all.