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Thread: which plates?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    The best way to keep the transmission alignment is to make a set of mounts for mock-up, drop the engine in and mark where your mounts need to be to align properly. The 1" rearward placement is difficult to do if you're swapping an Fbody accessory setup into a vehicle. The alternator ends up interfering with the driver side frame/rubber mount.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    76
    If you are going to add the ears and skip the original mount. Why even add the three holes (in red) for it?

    That's odd (Greg). I had no interference issue with the alternator and my plates (transdapt) set it back very close to 1.125. I left my (trans) crossmember in it's stock location ('92 350/350) and made a .250 thick aluminum plate to offset (again 1.125) the mounting holes for the transmission mount.
    Last edited by project92; 11-19-2007 at 02:45 PM.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Oak Forest, Illinois
    Posts
    276
    Since our motor mounts mount to the 45% angle of the side of the block---Making adapter plates of 3/16 or 1/4 or 5/16 will change the width of the mount ears. So which thickness would be best to use, so that the engine mount to frame mount through bolt lines up best. I know it can't make much of a difference, but it will make a little.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    76
    Mine are .250 thick. I also had to buy both mounts, not fun bolting those on the cross member without removing the lower a-arms. But I won that battle. With the new motor mounts and the .250 thick adapters, there was a lot of prying to get the bolts through.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    I'm thinking mine were 3/16" plate and took just a small tug/lift of the driver side of the engine with the hoist after putting the driver side bolt in.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    76
    I was above by about a half a hole (both) so I pryed up on the mounts (the inner rubber encased metal sleeves). I think my spelling is in the toilet. Never posted pics so here is a try.


  7. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    the bottom design is the first one I tried but the alternator would not fit properly so I went with the top design, on my first LS1 truck conversion. 2nd truck I went straight for the proven design.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    maine
    Posts
    1,458
    DUDE YOU ARE THE MAN it totally makes sense to me how it all fits together! i know exactly what i need to but and how it works you are the SHI* If i go to a GM dealer would i be able to buy the V8 frame mounts with and the cups? and just buy the adapters on ebay? Advance auto parts has them for 26$ a piece..
    Last edited by Wtfan18; 11-29-2007 at 07:45 PM.
    09 CREWCAB LTZ SILVERADO, 6.2, SIX SPEED, CAI,

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Posts
    76
    I got my motor mounts from Rock Auto (online) ebay sale actually. The cups >yes< the dealer and I got my adapters thru Summit. Had to replace everything, what was left (the motor mounts) was torched, when it was stolen and stripped.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    You can get everything at the dealer but the adapter plates. The ones on Ebay are the best price I've ever found short of free for a very good friend. $26 each is a great price for the rubber mounts. I paid a lot more for mine.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

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