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Thread: Opinions please

  1. #21
    Join Date
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    Denton Texas
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    They will work but you might think about L92 heads and intake. Heads are $400 each complete and the intake with electronic throttle body, fuel rails, injectors and regulator are under $600. If you want to go a different route, ask Billy about the stage 2 Patriot heads or go full bore for a set of stage 3 heads. They're a lot cheaper than ETP or AFR heads but you don't get the same performance as the others but they're probably within 20HP final output.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  2. #22
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    Zanesville, OH
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Mar 9 2007, 08&#58;29 PM) [snapback]85878[/snapback]</div>
    They will work but you might think about L92 heads and intake. Heads are &#036;400 each complete and the intake with electronic throttle body, fuel rails, injectors and regulator are under &#036;600.[/b]

    I can&#39;t seem to find the intake for that price, but the L92 stuff seems to be a good way to go.

    You seem to be the most helpful guy on here, Thanks.

  3. #23
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    Nov 2003
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    Denton Texas
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    Go to www.sdpc2000.com and look on their home page or search for L92 or L76 intakes.

    Follow this link... click me

    They have an optional .600 lift or .650 lift head for a little extra money. &#036;550 each for the .650 lift capable heads.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Zanesville, OH
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    First question-My truck is cable tb, will the l92 tb convert using my cable, or will I have to change something on my truck?

    Second-Will I need a bigger fuel pump?

    Third-Will getting a valve job help with the heads, because a guy owes me a big favor, and he works in an shop that rebuilds heads. Can you make the exaust valve larger or anything to help out on that side.

    Fourth-How much aproximate hp/tq are we talking here? Sorry, don&#39;t mean to sound like a noob.

    Oh yea, what about the rest of my drivetrain, does anything need fixin&#39; with that.

  5. #25
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    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
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    408 with stage II heads and a good cam will net you 500 engine HP easily, with a conservative tune. Get more aggressive and who knows the limits. More power always means you&#39;re going to find a weak link somewhere further down the line, be it the factory differential, weak/worn-out transmission, marginal condition u-joints. or just tires that blow off into smoke every time that you mash the pedal.

    If you have the cable driven TB just like me, you&#39;d have to buy a cable driven TB and sell the L92/L76 unit unless you can modify it somehow to work. That part would be difficult to do because it doesn&#39;t have an idle air control valve built into it other than the electonically controlled butterfly.

    Any time you go for performance I would replace the fuel pump with a new Walbro unit. Their gerotor type pumps are more consistant than the vane pumps that GM uses in the trucks.

    Stock NBS heads on a 408 are going to constrict the air flow/HP tremendously. You&#39;ll need much better flow numbers than stock. Unless the guy knows how to port heads correctly and has a flow bench to check his work I wouldn&#39;t waste your tiime on having him port them. Leave performance head work to the pros, you&#39;ll save time and money in the long run if you do it right the first time.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  6. #26
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    Zanesville, OH
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Mar 10 2007, 11&#58;36 AM) [snapback]85912[/snapback]</div>
    408 with stage II heads and a good cam will net you 500 engine HP easily, with a conservative tune. Get more aggressive and who knows the limits. More power always means you&#39;re going to find a weak link somewhere further down the line, be it the factory differential, weak/worn-out transmission, marginal condition u-joints. or just tires that blow off into smoke every time that you mash the pedal. [/b]
    I&#39;m doing the 80e while i&#39;m in there, so I&#39;ll have to get my driveshafts cut(rear), and lengthened(front).While thats happening I&#39;m getting the u-joints replaced. The only weak spot I see is the differential, and I guess I will have to just test it&#39;s durability out in the begining.

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Mar 10 2007, 11&#58;36 AM) [snapback]85912[/snapback]</div>
    If you have the cable driven TB just like me, you&#39;d have to buy a cable driven TB and sell the L92/L76 unit unless you can modify it somehow to work. That part would be difficult to do because it doesn&#39;t have an idle air control valve built into it other than the electonically controlled butterfly. [/b]
    So the one off my 4.8 won&#39;t work, damn. Do you know where I can pick a cable driven one up for the l92?

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Mar 10 2007, 11&#58;36 AM) [snapback]85912[/snapback]</div>
    Any time you go for performance I would replace the fuel pump with a new Walbro unit. Their gerotor type pumps are more consistant than the vane pumps that GM uses in the trucks.[/b]
    I figured a fuel pump would be required. Are the 40lb injectors big enough or should I go bigger?

    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(RedHeartbeat &#064; Mar 10 2007, 11&#58;36 AM) [snapback]85912[/snapback]</div>
    Stock NBS heads on a 408 are going to constrict the air flow/HP tremendously. You&#39;ll need much better flow numbers than stock. Unless the guy knows how to port heads correctly and has a flow bench to check his work I wouldn&#39;t waste your tiime on having him port them. Leave performance head work to the pros, you&#39;ll save time and money in the long run if you do it right the first time.
    [/b]
    I didn&#39;t mean on my heads, I meant on the l92 heads. The place he works is one of the biggest and best around this area to get any kind of engine rebuilding done. I was going to have them put together the parts I linked earlier, but since a short block is as cheap there is no sense in paying labor. How about getting them milled or somethig like that, because 500hp will be plenty(for a while anyway).

    O.K., now on to the cam. What are your suggestions on that, because I have no idea. I want it to be good enough to where I&#39;m not going to want to change it 6 months from now, but I don&#39;t want it to make it a pita to drive around. I want a decent idle, but I don&#39;t want it lope so bad it sounds like it&#39;s dieing at every time i stop at a light, not that it&#39;s not awsome sounding, it&#39;s just not what I want.



    Sorry about the long posts, I just want to cover all my bases.

  7. #27
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    I called Comp for their suggestion and went with the one in my sig, it idles great. Billy or Allen might have a different suggestion. Opinions vary from builder to builder. You can probably go a little less radical, it&#39;s their largest commercially available grind short of a custom specification, but I love it. Any cam will idle if the tune is correct. Even top fuel dragsters idle and look how radical their cams are.

    The 40 lb injectors are fine until you go FI or try to run a dry shot of nitrous.

    Buy head CCs for whatever compression you want if you don&#39;t buy the L92s. The head manufacturer will cut them for what you require. Some mill the deck, others will cut the dome when milling them. I wouldn&#39;t exceed 10.5:1 compression. 11:1 is great if you are sure you can get 93 octane every place you&#39;re going.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Zanesville, OH
    Posts
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    Does this package deal sound like a good way to go, and will the car intake work on my truck? I hope it will, because this one is changed to the cable tb.

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