Hptuners Log data translation help required !

[2boosted]

No need to shift at a higher rpm if your truck isn't making power up top.<br />
Put the truck on the dyno, hp is probably peaking at 5300--5400rpms, which is typical.<br />
Truck is loosing boost up top because the system can't flow.<br />
I'm always for all the rpm you can turn an engine, but not when it's lacking power.<br />
<br />
I think I had several dreams about this already, lol.

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so farmtruc, if hp is peaking 5400 rpm, gear change at 6000 is a nice spot so next gear drop on power band?

If the trick system can't flow in upper rpm what options do I have to cure that?

I wish I can avoid all the trouble to tune at 12 psi and race fuel....and then to 18 psi and race fuel. Tuning at 8 psi and pump gas is enough stress for a life time


Any good tuner in the house?

[farmtruc]

I'm just assuming. What's happening is the housing is too small, or the back pressure is too great, so the engine can only flow/spin so much; so to speak.
I'm not saying the trick kit isn't flowing, i'm saying you're engine needs more freedom.
If you're shifting at a certain rpm, try to increase it or lower it and see if there are any significant changes in 1/4 mile time.
Dyno will show power curve.
From that you can base your tuning from. I tend to shift trucks a little higher or past the power band as well, the momentum allows the truck to pull past, and less rpm drop during shifts.
Just see what feels best.

[2boosted]

for shifts<br />
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mph and rpm both have to be met in order to make a shift true....if rpm isnt being met then compare shift mph vs actual mph.. raise mph till it matches the rpm<br />
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with 8 psi you can easily get away with 1degree of timing deduct per psi...so figure what your motor NA would normally see and start removing timing from there. on 8psi you can run 20* timing easily with a AFR of 12.0

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there is no way I can figure what my engine timing likeness is at N/A state....she was born boosted.

I try to think engines are like humans. they all flesh and bones, but tend to act different when exposed to various situations. So do engines.

I think that if I can find a way to calculate my exact dynamic compression ratio, I'll be closer to pinpoint a generic number for the timing, and then work it up and down on my specific weather situations and other variable conditions.

To do that will you guys need my exact specs, or can you give general advice....like one size fits all?

thank you guys for all the advice.

[farmtruc]

Like it was mentioned, increase timing until there is a hint of knock, then back it down; or add some real fuel that engine and quit playing around with pump gas.

don't forget the OS of the pcm, engine noise, timing curve, power curve, engine flow, all the variables not mentioned play a part in maybe timing.

[kerrige]

Like it was mentioned, increase timing until there is a hint of knock, then back it down; or add some real fuel that engine and quit playing around with pump gas.

don't forget the OS of the pcm, engine noise, timing curve, power curve, engine flow, all the variables not mentioned play a part in maybe timing.

Plus some motors just hate timing

[George C]

theres ways but only true way is to have at it.

<br />
<br />


there is no way I can figure what my engine timing likeness is at N/A state....she was born boosted.

I try to think of engines are like humans. they all flesh and bones, but tend to act different when exposed to various situations. So do engines.

I think that if I can find a way to calculate my exact dynamic compression ratio, I'll be closer to pinpoint a generic number for the timing, and then work it up and down on my specific weather situations and other variable conditions.

To do that will you guys need my exact specs, or can you give general advice....like one size fits all?

thank you guys for all the advice.

[2boosted]

Like it was mentioned, increase timing until there is a hint of knock, then back it down; or add some real fuel that engine and quit playing around with pump gas.

don't forget the OS of the pcm, engine noise, timing curve, power curve, engine flow, all the variables not mentioned play a part in maybe timing.

I'll play some with timing next track and tune day.

Dumb me right, like race fuel grows on trees. Pump gas is all I have now and I want it to run nice and efficient, not all out strong.

I just bought the TurboSmart e-Boost2, so when that arrives I'll test if the engine can handle maybe 9-10 PSI with pump gas and water injection. Will not be the most efficient way, but probably give more fun at the street than 7-8 psi. You can always pour some race fuel, more timing and more boost the easy way, but 89-91 octane 12 sec truck is a nice street toy.

Farmtruc, I have OS safe strategies on line, is a street truck, not a race truck.

[GBNL]

i see your scanning in km/h . In the file are you setting shift points by mph or km/h?

[kerrige]

i see your scanning in km/h . In the file are you setting shift points by mph or km/h?

Holy crap..... We all missed that....

[2boosted]

and today I make 2 passes......and guess what, I moved my MPH shifpoints to match my rpms.

On my first pass I launch at 4 psi and Truck missed all gears Hit the rev limiter every time 1-2, 2-3 gear change. I had to lift the gas pedal in order to let it shift and then floor again.

Everything was untouched, except the full shift performance MPH. Then I read the log and saw rev limiter hitting 6300 rpm

I lowered my MPH for my second pass, but I was afraid and I Pedal shifted at 5500 rpm since it was a roll pass, and I wasn't going for a fast pass. I hate to hit the Rev limiter. Have some bad experiences with hitting rev limiters at hi RPM. (4 banger, but bad experience anyhow)

Can any one take a look at my Shift tables??? something is wrong and I cant figure out what is it !!!!! BTW my trans is not slipping.

Anyone with hptuners to read my logs? and my shift tables?

And the KMh vs mph is just for visuals, I tune based on MPH, but I like to see in KPH because is a familiar reference for me.