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Thread: Feeler: 1994 ext cab 1500 w/ 2002 5.3/4l60E installed - Central Florida

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    496
    Dang....if you weren't 18 hours away I'd probably come get it off your hands.

    Sure would like to see you get it going though

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa, FL
    Posts
    135
    I'd be willing to meet you 9 hours lol

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    496
    I was afraid you were gonna say somethin like that.

    Wow......that is effing tempting....I'd have to figure out a way to come up with the rest of the money but let me think about it.

    You really wanna get rid of this thing don't you?
    Last edited by flattopwill; 02-16-2010 at 08:22 PM.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa, FL
    Posts
    135
    it is just aggravating. I know it will be a great truck, but with the mortgage, car payments, and everything else, I dont have the time or money to work on it.

    I figure if you or I or whoever, doesnt want to mess with the wiring, $300 for a standalone 5 wire harness, and it will be done. then the gauges need wired and the 1 wire for the TCC lockup.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa, FL
    Posts
    135
    Here are some more details on it:

    2002 Silverado 5.3/4L60E

    cleaned the trans, painted aluminum with engine enamel
    cleaned engine/components, everything was painted. aluminum was painted aluminum, cast iron was painted black, both with engine enamel. it looks great. everything from pan to block to accessories to brackets

    painted the engine bay frame with enamel.

    trans sits in stock position, so stock driveshaft works.

    column shifter works with the 4L60E

    unmodified 2002 silverado manifolds work with no mods and no mods to frame

    uses 2002 silverado y-pipe unmodified (minus cutting out the cats)

    2002 silverado air intake tubing, airbox fitted

    2002 silverado radiator, overflow, pressurized system with no cap on the rad, it is on the overflow just like it was in the silverado

    battery and tray moved to the driver's side

    silverado was equipped with towing package, so my truck has the trans lines going to the radiator, then out into the factory 02 silverado aux trans cooler, then to the trans. also has the aux p/s cooler mounted to the radiator front, however it seems there is a blockage in it and it blew the FACTORY line off and tweaked the line. I bypassed it with compression fittings and hard line for now, unsure if I will hook the cooler back up or not.

    i can get more pics if wanted
    Last edited by SpecV44; 02-16-2010 at 09:21 PM.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    496
    I'd be interested in more pics.
    What else does the truck need? How are the brakes, steering, suspension? Ball joints, u joints? What does the interior need?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa, FL
    Posts
    135
    i drove the truck for a while, never had to do any maintenance on it. Brakes and steering felt good, no drag in the steering or anything. Never heard any clunks or banging.

    interior is in very good shape, it does need cleaning, and the plastic/rubber handle on the driver's door is gone (the part that you pull the door shut with once you get in).

    Truck has cruise (I put in the 2002 silverado cruise box, but I kept the 94 one just in case it doesnt work, even though the plug is the same and it is identical outside), power windows/locks, split rear window.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    496
    So is the drive shaft hooked up and will it go into gear?

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Cocoa, FL
    Posts
    135
    yeah, i backed it down my driveway and then pulled it forward. It goes into Park, but it is just barely hitting on the neutral safety switch, so I need to clearance the arm on the transmission so it doesnt hit anymore. If I dont finish it completely, it will still be able to be driven up and down the trailer.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Fort Smith, Arkansas
    Posts
    496
    Alright. So when you try to rev it up does it die right when you hit the throttle or will it rev up and then down then die?

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