5.3 to l92 swap

[MYSHTBX]

Well hopefully by the end of the month i should have meh L92 sittin in the garage, so I figured it was time to start doing some research.

Headers, Will long tubes made for the 5.3 work with the 6.2?

Wiring, I am going to delete the vvt, so that wont be an issue. But is there going to be any other chop/cut/rebuild im going to have to do to my harness or am i going to have to completely put a 6.2 harness and computer in?

I am going to be running a 4l80e as soon as I can find a good deal on one, so the trans i dont think will be an issue.

If there is anything im missing feel free to chime in

[keniff]

6.2 in an 05? if you can get the engine/tranny haness an ecm then your swap will be easier than buying the engine then the 58t to 24t converter for 275.00.

the LTs are the same so have no fear.

the VVT is simple just delete it lol.

[MYSHTBX]

what is this 58t to 24t converter, i assume its a relucter wheel signal converter for the pcm, but i thought the newer trucks were already 58t like the l92's where...i could be wrong

and all i am getting is the motor. But thats nice to know i can snag some LPP's and not have to worry about the flanges not matching lol

[alc70]

I have the L92 heads on a 6.0 in my 2005 Z71 and I had to buy a throttle body wiring harness adapter module from Torque Rush to hook up the throttle body. The connectors were different. If I remember correctly one has 8 pins and one only 6 pins. I didn't have a 6.2 harness so I used the 5.3's. I had no problems using the lt headers from the 5.3.

[MYSHTBX]

interesting....i knew there were some of you guys that have done these heads on 6.0 motors, i just didnt know if anybody has swapped the whole motor over yet?

[keniff]

the gen IV blocks have a 58t an knock sensors on the side of the block, plus the cam sensor is on the front cover. the 58t to 24t is to
let your older harness read the engine. unless you get the harness an ecm youll need the converter.

[MYSHTBX]

well I am going to be picking it up this sat. The guy im buying it from took it apart, so the crank is out of it. Can i pick up a 24x wheel and switch it out with the 58x? And if so, how do I accomplish such a task ie. is there any sort of alignment of wheel and crank?

[keniff]

you can do that. upgrade to ARP main bolts, rod bolts, head bolts IMO itll already be done for when you decide to upgrade imo.
youll have to change the cam gear to an older style so you can run your old harness...someone will chime in i hope im not very wise with that just yet. i think the cam sensor can be changed to your older style..i dunno though.
i dunno about the TB issue bc i dont have a dbw on my W/T project

[keniff]

oh with the 58t ring you need to have a machine shop press it off an press the new one on. if i was you id have the motor balanced..it shouldnt cost that much.

[RedHeartbeat]

anyone can swap them but the important thing is reluctor wheel alignment. If they don't have the tool find someone else to do it. There is a tool made by Goodson that costs about $250 to buy that aligns the reluctor. My engine builder made an alignment tool out of an old engine flexplate, ingenius IMO. The have to heat the reluctor wheel up to 450 degrees and then install and align it on the crank. When all is said and done they have to check runout to verify its within specs. The wheel is only about $20 for a 58x from the dealership, not sure on the price for the 24x.

Balancing is important but not cheap, anywhere from 200-300 around me.

ARP studs are a very wise investment in your engine's future. ARP head bolts are much cheaper than the studs and work almost as good. Be sure to get a cheap rod bolt stretch tool