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Thread: a built trans and what stall speed for a TVS blown truck?

  1. #1
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    Question a built trans and what stall speed for a TVS blown truck?

    I am planing on buying a TVS blower in the next six months, but I would like to buy the trans and converter first....I am planning on buying an FLT trans in the next two months, but I am unsure if I need the level 5 or the level 7...I want to get the truck into the mid or low 12's on pump gas...I have an 07 RCSB with a 5.3 in it and stock limited slip with 3.73's.....I think that I can make it into the mid 12's with just a 2600 or 2800 stall and a built trans (with the TVS)...I just can't decide what level to go with so that I don't end up on the side of the road or hanging from the tow truck at the track.....I will be putting my cal-tracs on this weekend, I have 28inch bias ply mickeys for the truck too so I have MOST of the stuff that I need.......a new driveshaft is something that I have been thinking MIGHT be a good idea.....
    If anyone has a blown truck in the mid to low 12's I'd love to hear what it took to get you there trans wise, and what you guys think about the 2600 or 2800 stall....the TVS 5.3 trucks make TQ pretty low.....so i dont think that i need any more than that......
    Last edited by JeRM82; 12-22-2009 at 01:56 AM.

  2. #2
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    2800 would be good for no cam. As far as a built transmission is concerned. FLT makes damn good transmissions, but it'd be a little bit more reasonable to use that dough on something like an 80e swap. That would really put your mind at ease as far as not blowing a transmission
    1951 3100
    1984 C10

  3. #3
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    As far as a converter for a 5.3L TVS truck, I would look at something along the lines of a 2600-2800 stall speed. The TVS makes GOOD power down low and you don't really wanna stall higher than where the power band starts.

    Quote Originally Posted by duckysbht View Post
    ...FLT makes damn good transmissions, but it'd be a little bit more reasonable to use that dough on something like an 80e swap. That would really put your mind at ease as far as not blowing a transmission
    I have seen several 5.3L S/C trucks run a LVL 5 4L60e tranny just fine...but the parts WILL eventually wear out. I would consider the built 4L60e in that truck a waste cause you will have to replace it sooner than later. Ducky is right--go ahead and opt for the 4L80e with some built-up internals. It will be waaaaaaaaaay stronger than a 4L60e could be built.

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  4. #4
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    DAMN...that means I have to do the whole conversion....I haven't really looked into the 80E because I didnt think that I was gonna need it...does anyone make a crossmember for that swap? Last time I saw you just had to cut your own crossmember and add some length to it...

  5. #5
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    You CAN get by with a built 60e unit. Its not the end of the world. We are just making you aware that the 80e would be the better option--but if you wanna go with a built 60e, be my guest.

    Yes, the crossmember needs to be cut and add some length to it. The flexplate spacer is needed, along with a switch to a 1350 yoke instead of your 1310 yoke. You may get lucky and not need to have your DS shortened.

    2000 ECSB 6.0L
    TORQUER V2 CAM ● COMP 918's ● 7.4 HARDENED PUSHRODS ● K&N SERIES 77 CAI ● 80mm BBK ●PACESETTER LT HEADERS AND 3'' ORY ● SUPER 40 FLOW ● 3000 STALL ● 4.10s ● BUILT 80e ● VORTEC PERFORMANCE TUNE ● MSD 8.5mm PLUG WIRES● ELEC. CUTOUT ● UD & ALT PULLEYS ● FLEX-A-LITE E-FANS ● 22" CENTERLINE STINGRAY III's ● LUND FIBERGLASS TONNEAU ● 2" LEVELING SHACKLES ● 12K HID LOWS & FOGS ● LEDs ● DEBADGED ● WHITE-FACED ESCALADE GAUGES ● KICKER 450.1 ● 2-CVR 10's ● DS60's ● K693's

  6. #6
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    Transmissioncenter.net sells them already modified. You send them your's when you're done and get part of your money back.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  7. #7
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    I am looking more into the 80 conversion...I saw that crossmember and the haness on that website....its a LOT cheaper for the crossmember than I thought....if I switched to the 80E what level do ya think would be enough?
    I keep thinking that if I got a level 5 4l70 it would last me a little over two years without breakage....and THEN I could step up to the 80E if it poops the bed after I go on my first deployment when I rotate over to sea duty and I can do the level 5 80E with a new driveshaft without breaking a sweat financially....I DO have the cash to do the conversion but if I did the 80E I would be tempted to put a 14 bolt in it and a new drive shaft so that I wouldn't have to even toutch the rear of the truck again....and after I did the 80E conversion I would have to hold off on that blower for a WHILE.....what do you guys think?
    What level 80E would be enough?
    Would the 14 bolt be worth it to step up to while I am making the tranny swap with the bigger driveshaft parts?
    Will the cal-tracs kit that I just bought work with the 14 bolt?
    Last edited by JeRM82; 12-22-2009 at 05:13 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeRM82 View Post
    I am looking more into the 80 conversion...I saw that crossmember and the haness on that website....its a LOT cheaper for the crossmember than I thought....if I switched to the 80E what level do ya think would be enough?
    I keep thinking that if I got a level 5 4l70 it would last me a little over two years without breakage....and THEN I could step up to the 80E if it poops the bed after I go on my first deployment when I rotate over to sea duty and I can do the level 5 80E with a new driveshaft without breaking a sweat financially....I DO have the cash to do the conversion but if I did the 80E I would be tempted to put a 14 bolt in it and a new drive shaft so that I wouldn't have to even toutch the rear of the truck again....and after I did the 80E conversion I would have to hold off on that blower for a WHILE.....what do you guys think?
    What level 80E would be enough?
    Would the 14 bolt be worth it to step up to while I am making the tranny swap with the bigger driveshaft parts?
    Will the cal-tracs kit that I just bought work with the 14 bolt?
    You can do the 80e conversion for 1/2 of what an FLT lvl 5 costs.

    1969 Chevy RCLB C10 350/TH400 SOLD
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pl4yboy View Post
    You can do the 80e conversion for 1/2 of what an FLT lvl 5 costs.
    I gotta look into the conversion a little more man...but a rebuilt 80E WILL take the same punishment as a level 5 or 7 4L70 from them? If so thats the case then it seems like I was heading the worn direction with all of that trans stuff....any of you guys had your truck run SLOWER with an 80E instead of the 65 or 70? that first gear makes me think that 3.73's arrent gonna cover it once the 80 is in there....if I run 4.10's it might make up for it....but then it will be like my old SS trailblazer on the highway.....that fun in the sun 16mpg....HA HA

  10. #10
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    A stock 80e is capable of holding 600 hp. It has a much larger rotating mass.
    2000 Silverado ECSB- 5.3 CAI, Pacesetter LTs, ORY- Pipe, Magnaflow XL, E-fan, Ported T/B , Nelson Tuned, Built 4l60e, Circle D Stall, 3.42s G80, 2-4 Drop, Hertz Highs, Rockford 501s

    2004 Buell XB12s

    Quote Originally Posted by LamboDoNoMo View Post
    "Never give up, NEVER BACK DOWN!!!"

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