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Thread: What can (should) I do? (please read)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Bakersfield, CA
    Posts
    11
    First of all I have a 1996 GMC Yukon and am having a problem.

    I took the truck today to a transmission shop and told them about a problem of mine when the shift from second to third wasnt firm, a 200-600rpm flair up before fully shifting. I also wanted them to install a shift kit after determining the problem.

    However, they called me telling me they took it for a test drive and the transmission is toast. He then proceeds to to tell me he will rebuild it anywhere from 1700-2500. I told him I did not have the money to do so as I work at Pepboys and make a measly $7.50/hour and $400-600 per month. He then told me I can get a certain credit card with all the local mechanics in town and I can use the card to rebuild it. I told him I will not do that and I will just go there to pick up the truck soon.

    So I come down and pick it up (I did not have the shift kit installed) and on my way home the transmission was 300 times worse. It would not shift into third or fourth, it felt as it went into neutral; so I had to slow down and manually shift it to first to get it back into gear and limp it home that way.

    Anyways, when I came home I told my father and he called them telling them about the problems and they hung up on him. So my father and I went to Transmission DR's (their name) and said it was our fault because we knew it was already messed up and drove it there (2miles).

    The drive has been driven a MAXIMUM of 10 miles (from work to home and then home to the shop). The only problem even while driving it to the shop was just that 200-600rpm flair which wasnt a firm shift and ONLY occured on second to third gear shift. Also after knowing of the problem I let go of the gas to let it upshift without the flair.

    Within 200 of the last transmission driven miles it was perfectly fine. I even drove to Montana and back without a single problem (over 2000 mile round trip mind you). On the way back from Montana when I was almost home, the engine's crankshaft broke and we rebuilt the engine. I am thinking their may be a grounding problem or some sort as the transmission has NEVER been pushed since the rebuild of the engine due to breaking in.

    Another thing to add is the transmission problem started right after I had an electrical problem which consists of my power door locks not working, rear hatch window opening, dome light coming on when door opens, and the driver power seat not moving.

    Also, could this have been the problem the whole time? There is a Technical service bulletin on the 1996 4L60E similar to this problem. A simple fix was needed which consists of a jumper in the ecu which Gm started doing after 1996. We told the guy at the shop about the TSB and he said it didnt matter becaus eno matter when something flairs, the whole thing needs to be rebuilt. Here is a quote of the TSB:
    AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 1-2 AND OR 2-3 UPSHIFT SLIP/FLARE #66-71-04
    SUBJECT: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 1-2 AND/OR 2-3 UPSHIFT
    SLIP/FLARE, NO 3RD OR 4TH GEAR, LAUNCH SHUDDER,
    DTC P1870 (REVISE VCM WIRING)
    MODELS: 1996 CHEVROLET AND GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2 AND P3 MODELS
    1996 OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA
    WITH VCM AND 4L60-E (M30) OR 4L80-E (MT1)
    AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
    CONDITION:
    SOME OWNERS MAY COMMENT THAT THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION HAS
    EITHER A
    SLIP OR FLARE ON THE 1-2 AND/OR 2-3 UPSHIFT, OR NO 3RD OR
    4TH GEAR, OR LAUNCH SHUDDER. DTC P1870 MAY ALSO BE STORED
    IN THE VCM.
    CAUSE:
    A POOR INTERNAL GROUND BETWEEN THE TWO CIRCUIT BOARDS OF
    THE VCM CAN CAUSE THE VCM TO COMMAND ERRATIC LINE PRESSURE
    AT THE PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOIDS (PCS).
    CORRECTION:
    USING HARNESS JUMPER WIRE AND INSTRUCTION KIT, P/N 12167310,
    REVISE THE WIRING HARNESS AT THE VCM CONNECTOR.
    CORRECTIONS WERE MADE TO THE VCM BEGINNING 2/14/96. THE
    CORRECTED VCM'S ARE IDENTIFIED WITH SERVICE NUMBER 16244210
    ON THE VCM IDENTIFICATION LABEL.
    SERVICE PROCEDURE
    THE FOLLOWING IS A SUMMARY OF THE INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED
    WITH THE SERVICE KIT:
    1. REMOVE THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY.
    2. MOVE THE WIRE LOCATED AT CONNECTOR J3
    (WHITE/GRAY/CLEAR), PIN 18 TO CONNECTOR J1 (BLUE), PIN 23.
    3. INSTALL THE JUMPER WIRE BETWEEN CONNECTOR J2 (RED),
    PIN 26 AND CONNECTOR J3 (WHITE/GRAY/CLEAR), PIN 18.
    4. INSTALL THE TAG INCLUDED IN THE KIT AROUND THE VCM
    WIRING HARNESS. THIS TAG NOTES THAT THE WIRING HARNESS HAS
    BEEN MODIFIED.
    5. RECONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL.
    ROAD TEST TO VERIFY THAT THE CONDITION HAS BEEN
    CORRECTED.
    IF ANY OF THE FOLLOWING CONDITIONS ARE NOTED, THE
    TRANSMISSION SHOULD BE REPLACED, OR FOR CANADIAN
    DEALERS, REPAIRED.
    -TRANSMISSION FLUID OXIDATION OR EXCESSIVE SEDIMENT.
    -TRANSMISSION SLIP OR FLARE AFTER THIS SERVICE FIX IS
    PERFORMED.
    -DTC P1870 IS STORED ON A 4L60-E (M30).
    THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FROM KENT-MOORE (1-800-
    345-2233) FOR USE IN REMOVING AND RELOCATING THE VCM WIRES:
    -J41758 TERMINAL TOOL: USED TO REMOVE THE WIRE FROM THE VCM
    CONNECTOR.
    -J41759 PUNCH: USED TO PUNCH A NEW HOLE THROUGH THE
    CONNECTOR SEAL.
    PARTS INFORMATION
    P/N DESCRIPTION QTY
    12167310 HARNESS JUMPER WIRE KIT 1"[/b]
    Any reccomendations/comments will be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks in advance, Mark.
    1996 Black 2 Door Yukon GT 6.3L Vortec:
    Some modifications in different areas. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2081389

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    belton, tx
    Posts
    747
    Had an 87 firebird do the same to me. the tranny feels like a slipping clutch? it slowly lost overdrive, then third, and i limped home in 2nd gear. It was trashed and it cost 900 to rebuild (in 1992). Best bet is to find a "shade tree" that knows what the hell he's doing or get a salvaged one for temporary use.

    tough break, good luck.
    2013 2wd Z71 6.2 crew cab

    Old Truck: '04 Chevy crew cab stroked/bored 6.0 to 408ci. forged internals, patriot 68cc stage 3 heads (11.1:1cr), comp 244/246 .600 115lsa cam, 3000 yank tc, built 4L60E, walbro 255, 60# mototron injectors, pacesetter lt's 4" single no-cat exhaust

    best time 12.93 1/4 mi @ 103 in the turbo truck.

    1968 Camaro Convertible, super sweet!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Denton Texas
    Posts
    20,540
    Check the pcm per the tsb and see if the mod has already been done. If not, contact your local gm dealer and see if they fix it under the tsb free of charge or not. also see if they cover damage to the trans due to the problem created by their bad wiring.
    See my truck data in the "My Garage" section here... http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/my-ga...tml#post191709

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Bakersfield, CA
    Posts
    11
    Originally posted by RedHeartbeat@Apr 29 2005, 04:56 PM
    Check the pcm per the tsb and see if the mod has already been done. If not, contact your local gm dealer and see if they fix it under the tsb free of charge or not. also see if they cover damage to the trans due to the problem created by their bad wiring.
    Awesome idea. Il check on that now. Thanks a lot!
    1996 Black 2 Door Yukon GT 6.3L Vortec:
    Some modifications in different areas. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2081389

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    62
    I'd call the Better Business Bureau on that shop too, sounds like they may have done some thing to make it worse.
    03 SIlverado LS SCLB 4.8 w/ 3.42 rear, K&N FIPK, mild catbak duals, vette servo and a few other things added.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...hughes/600.jpg

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